THE 


FLOWER     GARDEN, 


OR 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR 


OF 


PRACTICAL   DIRECTIONS   FOR  THE  CULTURE 
OF  FLOWERS. 


BY    MARTIN    D 0 Y L E ,  p 
AUTHOR  OF  "HINTS  TO  SMALL  FARMERS,"  "PRACTICAL 
GARDENING,"  ETC.  ETC.  ETC. 


FIRST  AMERICAN  EDITION. 


ADAPTED    TO    THE    CLIMATE    OF    THE    UNITED    STATES, 
WITH   NOTES    AND    OBSERVATIONS    BY 

L.  D.  GALE,  M.  D., 

PROFESSOR  OF  CHEMISTRY  IN  THE  NEW-YORK  COLLEGE  OP 

PHARMACY;  AND  PROFESSOR  OF  MINERALOGY  AND 

GEOLOGY  IN  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  THE 

CITY  OF  NEW-YORK. 


NEW-YORK : 

MOORE  &  PAYNE,  CLINTON  HALL. 
1835. 


ENTERED, 

According  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1835,  by 

MOORE  &  PAYNE, 

In  the  Clertfs  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District 
of  the  State  of  New-York. 


H.  Ludwig,  Printer. 


INDEX. 


PAGE 
A 

Acacia,  rose,  112 

Athea  frutex,  160 

American  Cowslip,  103 

Aquilegia  canadensis,  ib. 

Anemone,  30,  120 

Andromeda,  111 

Annuals,  hardy,  72,  85,  95 

Annuals,  half-hardy,  85,  95 

Annuals,  tender,  82, 1 1 7, 143 

April,  monthly  calendar  of,  78 

April,  observations  on,  81 

August,  monthly  calendar  of,  151 
Auricula,  72, 120, 154, 166, 175 
Azalea,  111,161 

B 

Balsam,  148 

Biennials,  86 

Budding,  a  mode  of  propagating 
by  inserting  buds  of  one  into 
a  previous  growth  of  another 
variety  of  the  same  family  of 
plants, 

Bulbs,  in  blossom,  100, 125 

Bulbous  roots,  cultivation  of,  12 
Bulbs,  treatment  of,  96, 97 


Cactus,  160 

Calceolarius,  161 

Camellia,  53,54,55,56 

Cape  Crinum,  171 

Camellia  japonica,  18 

Campanula,  74 

Cereus  speciosissimus,  160 

Carnations,     74,  85,  95, 120, 137, 

"  153;156,174 

Cheiranthus,  108 

Chrysanthemum,  75, 140, 149 

Climbers,  101, 143,  171 

Clematis,  110 

Columbine,  wild,  103 

Compost,  a  mixture    of  earth 

and  manure,  suitable  for  the 

growth  of  vegetables. 
Coxcomb,  61,148 

Conclusion,  179 


Crocus, 

Crown  Imperial, 
Cuttings, 


D 


PAGE 

28 

102 

10 


Dahlia,  73, 86, 96, 118, 155 

Deciduous,  falling  off"  early. 
December,  observations  on,  45 

Directions,  general,  9 

Dog-tooth  violet.  41, 44 


Edgings,  167 

Erythrina,  159 

Escholtzia  californica,  145 

Evergreens,  in  blossom,  64, 87 

Evergreens,  transplanting  of,  169 


February,  monthly  calendar  of,     57 

February,  observations  on,  59 

Ficoides,  106 

Flowering  shrubs,  19 

Forced  flowers  for  winter,  23 

Fritillary,  41 

Fuchsia,  111 

Fuchsia  microphylla,  161 

G 
Garden  Flowers  in  blossom,  63,76, 

«  89, 100, 125, 142, 156 

Geraniums,  126 

Gladiolus  cardinalis,  145 

Gladiolus  psittacinus,  146 

Graftings,  consist  of  the  last  two 
year's  growths  inserted  into 
another  variety  of  the  same 
species,  or  family  of  plants. 
Greenhouse  flowers  in  blossom,  64, 

"     77,89,101,125,142,156,170,177 
Guernsey  Lily,  170 


H 


24 


Half-hardy  plants, 
Herbaceous,  not  woody, 
Herbaceous  plants,  in  blossom,  125, 
"  «          142,156,169,177 

Hibiscus  speciosus,  170 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

Hyacinth,  25,174 

Hot-beds,  method  of  making,    70, 

"  "  73,85 

Hollyhocks,  144 

Hybridizing,  106 

Ice  plant,  148 

Introduction  to  English  Edition,  5 
Introduction  to  Amer.  Edition,  7 
Iris,  61,62 

Ixia,  146 

J 

January,  observations  on,  51 

Japan  Rose,  18 

Jasmine,  140 

Jonquils,  22 

June,  monthly  calendar  of,  115 

July,  monthly  calendar  of,  135 

K 

Kalmia,  111 
L 

Larkspur,  144 

Layering,  76 

Leaf  manure,  19 

Lily  of  the  valley,  102 

Liriodendron,  132 
Loam,  a  natural  soil  consisting 

of  a  mixture  of  sand,  clay,  and 

oxide  of  iron. 

Lychnis,  132 

M 

Mallow,  scarlet,  170 
March,  monthly  calendar  of,  f7 

March,  observations  on,  69 

Magnolia,  131 

Marvel  of  Peru,  18,107 

May,  monthly  calendar  of,  91 

May,  observations  on,  93 

Mignonette,  130, 140 

Myrtle,  110,150 

Narcissus,  22, 38 

Nervium  splendens,  147 

November,  monthly  calendar  of,  15 
November,  observations  on,  17 

O 

October,  monthly  calendar  of,  1 72 

October,  observations  on,  173 
Offset,  a  sprout,  a  shoot, 


Passion  Flower, 
Pansie  Violet, 
Peonies, 


PAGE 

Perennials,  72, 86 

Peruvian  Squill,  102 

Pinks,  119,128,137 

Plan  of  a  Flower  Garden,  50 

Polyanthus,  84, 120 

Poppy,  129 

Potentilla,  146 

Pruning,  65 

Pyramidal  Saxifrage,  105 

R 

Ranunculus,  32,73,120 

Rockets,  104 

Rockwork,  42 

Routine  work,  64, 77, 89, 1 14, 133, 

"  171,178 

Rhododendron,  111 

Roses,  123, 130, 140 

Rose,  Acacia,  112 

Rock  Rose,  131 

S 

Seeds,  sowing  of,  154 

Seeds,  saving  of,  167,176 

Sensitive  Plant,  147 

September,  monthly  calendar  of,  163 
Shrubbery,  169,176 

Slipping,  169 

Snowdrop,  29 

Shrubs  in  blossom,  64, 77, 89, 101 

125,143,156,170,177 
Squill,  Peruvian,  102 

Stapelia,  146 

Stoves,  19 

Streptocarpus,  161 

Stock  Gilliflower,  107 

T 

Tender  Bulbs,  24 

Tender  Shrubs,  24 

Tiger  Flower,  126 

Tiger  Lily,  158 

Top-dressing,  covering  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground  with  ma- 
nure or  a  compost. 
Tree  Peony,  113 

Trellis-work,  frame-work  for  sup- 
porting vines. 

Tulips,  35.  73.  97. 163 

Tuberose,  86. 159 

W 

Wallflower,  108 

Wisteria,  113 

Weeding,  133 

109  Y 

106    Yucca  gloriosa,  162 

105    Yucca  glaucescern,  162 


INTRODUCTION 

TO  THE   ENGLISH  EDITION. 


"  A  blessing  upon  the  fragrance  of  sweet  flowers !  and  a  thousand 
blessings  on  the  power  that  gifted  their  leaves  with  such  a  dowry." 

IN  a  compendious  manual  of  this  nature,  it  is  not  to 
be  expected  that  all  the  varieties  of  flowers  can  possibly 
be  introduced  in  detail ;  it  must  be  limited  to  those 
which  are  most  popular,  and  most  generally  cultivated — 
even  they  must  be  treated  of,  briefly.  It  at  first  occurred 
to  me,  that  it  might  be  well  to  give  a  double  column  in 
the  Calendar,  as  in  my  former  treatise  on  vegetables, 
distinguishing  the  least  necessary  from  the  most  essen- 
tial. But  with  respect  to  Flowers,  the  second  column 
shall  be  abandoned,  and  those  which  it  is  least  desira- 
ble to  cultivate  shall  be  omitted,  as  all  could  not  come 
within  the  compass  of  this  work ;  and  should  my  fair 
readers  take  a  peculiar  interest  in  any  particular  plant 
or  flower  which  is  not  mentioned  here,  upon  referring 
to  some  of  the  approved  authorities  on  gardening,  they 
cannot  fail  to  acquire  the  information  they  seek  for. 
My  limits  preclude  minute  statement ;  but  I  consider 

that  I  am  addressing  those  whose  love  of  the  Flower 
1* 


<5  INTRODUCTION. 

Garden   ensures   a  pretty  general   knowledge   of  its 
management. 

I  cannot  create  a  florist  by  a  stroke  of  my  pen,  any 
more  than  I  can  make  a  neat  gardener  in  a  summary 
way,  out  of  a  common  laborer,  who  never  had  a  rake 
in  his  hand. 

That  the  present  hints  should  be  presented  in  Calen- 
dar form,  appears  advisable,  to  avoid  confusion,  and  to 
bring  the  respective  flowers,  and  their  culture,  under 
immediate  consideration,  at  the  precise  time  they  ought 
to  meet  attention ;  and  as  in  the  Kitchen  Garden  I 
made  that  form  to  commence  with  the  month  of 
November,  so  likewise  may  the  Floral  year,  with 
great  propriety,  be  considered  to  begin  with  the  same 
month,  the  culture  of  its  earliest  products  being  then  to 
be  attended  to,  and  preparation  made  for  their  appear- 
ance  in  the  following  spring.  M.  D. 


INTRODUCTION 

TO  THE  AMERICAN  EDITION. 


THE  cultivation  of  flowers  is  a  delightful  and  engag- 
ing employment,  adapted  to  almost  every  age  and  sta- 
tion. The  high  and  the  low,  the  rich  and  the  poor,  the 
youthful  and  the  aged,  are  alike  susceptible  of  a  taste 
for  this  delightful  amusement.  For  those  who  have 
retired  from  the  busy  scenes  of  life,  it  is  a  grand  sub- 
stitute for  the  engrossing  occupations  of  business.  The 
exercise  required  will  be  a  sure  passport  to,  and  the 
preservation  of,  the  health,  both  of  body  and  mind. 
To  young  ladies  it  is  peculiarly  appropriate,  teaching 
them  to  cultivate  neatness  and  correctness  of  taste,  and 
at  the  same  time  is  one  of  the  surest,  safest,  and  most 
agreeable  remedies  for  ennui,  a  malady  so  frequently 
met  with  in  refined  society. 

The  present  work  we  think  has  some  points  of 
excellence  to  recommend  it.  Its  plan  is  exceedingly 
simple ;  being  arranged  in  the  calendar  form,  all  the  most 
common  plants  of  the  hot-house,  as  well  as  others  that 
blossom  during  the  month,  can  be  turned  to  at  once. 
The  directions  are  couched  in  the  simplest  language, 
intelligible  to  all  classes  of  readers.  In  general,  there- 
fore, to  commence  the  cultivation  of  flowers,  one  has 
need  only  to  select  from  the  directions  given  in  the 


8  INTRODUCTION. 

/ 

book,  such  plants  as  it  may  be  convenient  to  cultivate, 
and  immediately  set  about  the  work. 

Most  of  those  who  cultivate  flowers,  have  not  the 
convenience  of  a  hot-house,  but  derive  nearly  the  same 
advantages  from  the  use  of  the  parlor,  which  is  thus 
most  tastefully  ornamented  by  the  works  of  nature, 
assisted  by  the  hand  of  art. 

During  those  seasons  of  the  year,  in  which  there  are 
no  frosts,  the  plants  thrive  much  better  in  the  open  air, 
and  all  those  which  are  unable  to  resist  the  frosts,  must 
be  brought  into  the  house  during  the  cold  nights  of 
spring  and  autumn,  and  removed  to  the  open  air  during 
pleasant  days.  In  large  cities,  few  have  ground  enough 
to  afford  a  garden  of  any  convenient  extent ;  citizens  are 
obliged,  consequently,  to  place  their  flower-pots,  during 
the  warm  season,  in  the  yard,  which  is  often  confined 
to  the  space  of  ten  or  twenty  feet  square.  Even  those 
who  have  a  garden,  do  not  always  have  it  in  their  power 
to  select  the  proper  situations.  It  should,  however,  be 
as  nearly  level  as  possible,  to  prevent  the  rains  from 
washing  away  the  soil.  It  should  be  freely  exposed  to 
the  sun,  all  day  if  possible,  or  otherwise  as  much  of  it 
as  practicable,  and  defended  from  northerly  and  west- 
erly winds. 


GENERAL   DIRECTIONS. 


PLANTS  are  annual  when  they  spring  up,  flower,  bear 
fruit,  and  die  the  same  year  ;  biennial,  when  they 
spring  up  one  summer,  bear  fruit  and  die  the  next ;  and 
perennial,  when  they  continue  many,  or  more  than  two 
years. 

The  soil  should  be  a  deep  loam ;  it  must  be  kept 
rich,  and  often  stirred.  It  ought  to  be  supplied  with 
manure  every  year ;  this  may  consist  of  a  compost  made 
up  of  decayed  leaves  and  vegetables,  yard  manure, 
ashes,  and  common  earth  or  loam.  If  this  be  inconve- 
nient to  procure,  we  may  substitute  four  parts  of  common 
garden  earth,  a  little  wood  ashes,  say  half  a  part,  and 
about  one  part  of  yard  manure.  The  kinds  of  manure 
and  proportions  mentioned,  it  must  be  recollected,  are 
those  which  are  considered  the  best,  though  plants  will 
grow  and  look  tolerable  well,  in  common  garden  earth, 
without  any  additional  materials. 

The  time  for  sowing  annual,  biennial,  or  perennial 
flower  seeds,  is  in  the  months  of  April  and  May,  ac- 
cording to  the  forwardness  of  the  season.  The  smaller 
seeds  may  be  covered  half  an  inch  deep  in  moist  earth  ; 
those  as  large  as  a  pea,  to  the  depth  of  an  inch,  or  per- 
haps a  little  more.  Seeds  of  very  delicate  plants  should 
be  planted  in  flower-pots,  and  the  earth  kept  moderately 
moist,  by  pouring  water  into  the  pan  which  contains 
the  flower-pot.  The  earth  contained  in  the  flower-pots 
should  be  rich,  and  sifted  through  a  coarse  sieve  made 
for  the  purpose. 

Transplanting  of  annual  plants,  should  be  performed 
in  June,  that  of  biennials  and  perennials,  in  September,  or 
early  in  October.  We  should  always  take  up  as  much 


10  GENERAL     DIRECTIONS. 

earth  adhering  to  the  roots  as  convenient.  This  should 
be  done  when  the  ground  is  moist,  and  in  a  cloudy  day, 
at  evening,  or  just  before  a  shower.  This  care  becomes 
more  necessary,  partly  from  the  fact,  that  a  plant,  when 
removed  from  the  soil  in  which  it  was  reared,  generally 
loses  a  portion  of  its  roots,  and  partly  from  the  difference 
between  the  original  and  new  soil.  It  is  well  in  all 
cases  to  shade  the  plant,  for  a  few  days,  from  the  mid- 
day  sun.  The  earth  should  be  slightly  pressed  down 
about  the  roots,  so  that  they  may  readily  imbibe  moisture 
therefrom. 

If  the  plant  is  to  be  transferred  to  a  pot,  it  is  generally 
recommended  to  place  a  piece  of  earthenware  over  the 
aperture  in  the  bottom,  that  the  superabundant  water 
may  drain  off,  lest  remaining,  it  should  injure,  and 
perhaps  destroy  the  plant.  The  pots  should  be  nearly 
filled  with  rich  earth,  the  plant  placed  in  the  centre, 
and  the  earth  moderately  pressed  in  contact  with  the 
roots. 

Cultivation.  Plants  raised  from  the  seed  are  gene- 
rally sown  in  greater  abundance  than  the  ground  can 
support,  and  consequently  require  to  be  thinned  out  while 
they  are  small  :  for  if  left  too  near  each  other,  they 
become  weakly  and  slender ;  such  should  be  picked  out 
as  the  plants  increase  in  size,  until  they  stand  at  a  proper 
distance,  so  that  the  air  may  circulate  freely  among 
them,  and  the  sun  may  have  free  access  to  the  plant, 
and  as  much  as  practicable  to  the  earth  in  which  it  is 
nourished.  All  florists  and  gardeners,  recommend  to  keep 
the  earth  loose  about  the  plants  ;  this  should  be  done  in 
dry  weather ;  the  earth  about  them  may  be  kept  moist 
for  a  long  time,  by  covering  it  with  old  hay  or  straw. 

Weeds  of  every  description  should  be  carefully  re- 
moved as  soon  as  they  appear,  and  should  never  be 
allowed  to  flower  in  the  garden,  nor  about  it,  and  all 
decayed  plants  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  possible. 

Cuttings  are  pieces  cut  from  trees,  shrubs,  or  plants 
of  the  last  year's  growth,  and  should  generally  retain  a 


GENERAL     DIRECTIONS.  11 

small  piece  of  the  growth  immediately  preceding  the  last, 
or  ripened  wood.  They  should  be  taken  when  the  sap  is 
active,  and  about  six  joints  or  buds  are  sufficient.  Cut 
them  with  a  sharp  knife,  transversely,  and  monthly, 
near  a  bud  or  joint  of  previous  growth,  or  between  the 
two  last.  Set  them  in  rich  ground,  in  a  shady  place, 
leaving  two  or  three  joints  or  buds  above  the  surface. 
If  the  weather  be  dry,  water  them,  and  place  old  hay 
about  them,  to  keep  the  earth  moist.  If  the  cutting  is 
to  be  placed  in  a  flower-pot,  the  vessel  should  be  placed 
in  the  earth,  in  a  shady  place,  and  the  cutting  covered 
with  an  inverted  glass  for  a  short  time,  to  preserve  a 
moist  atmosphere  about  it.  If  they  send  out  roots,  they 
will  also  soon  send  out  branches,  otherwise  they  die. 
The  month  of  April  in  our  climate  is  peculiarly  suitable 
for  propagating  by  cuttings. 

Some  plants  are  very  tenacious  of  life,  and  are  easily 
multiplied  by  cuttings ;  others  again  are  not  at  all 
adapted  to  this  mode.  Many  species  of  willow,  currant, 
sempervivum,  (house-leek,)  horseradish,  &c.,  belong  to 
the. former.  Layers  are  branches  left  on  the  parent 
plant  or  shrub,  and  bent  down  and  fastened  several 
inches  below  the  surface  of  the  ground.  A  flat  stone 
placed  on  the  earth,  immediately  above  the  layer,  is 
useful  to  keep  the  earth  cool  and  to  retain  the  moisture. 
When  they  have  taken  sufficient  root,  sever  them  from 
the  parent  plant  or  shrub,  and  at  any  subsequent  time 
they  may  be  transplanted. 

As  to  the  cultivation  of  herbaceous  plants  and  shrubs 
in  pots,  a  few  directions  may  be  necessary.  The  earth 
should  be  kept  moderately  moist :  the  mould  or  earth 
on  the  top  should  be  dry  before  additional  water  be 
given ;  and  as  the  plants  placed  in  a  window  are  in-  ' 
clined  towards  the  light,  the  pots  should  frequently  be 
turned  around,  to  prevent  the  plants  from  growing 
crooked  or  inclined.  If  the  plants  are  to  stand  in  pots 
for  many  years  in  succession,  the  earth  should  be  taken 
out  in  October,  and  the  sides  and  bottom  shaved  off 


12  GENERAL    DIRECTIONS. 

with  a  sharp  knife  to  the  depth  of  an  inch,  more  or  less, 
according  to  the  size,  and  then  replaced,  and  the  empty 
part  filled  with  rich,  moist,  and  finely  pulverized  earth. 
Two-thirds  of  good  rich  earth,  and  one-third  of  well 
rotted  yard  manure,  well  mixed,  make  a  good  compost 
for  most  plants,  except  for  bulbous  roots,  which  require 
some  sand. 

Herbaceous  plants,  left  in  our  gardens,  in  general 
require  some  slight  covering  during  the  severity  of  our 
northern  winters.  For  this  purpose  they  may  be  covered 
with  old  hay  or  straw,  and  may  be  removed  the  first 
of  April,  or  a  little  before  if  the  season  is  more  than 
usually  forward, 

BULBOUS  ROOTS. 

No  class  of  plants  is,  perhaps,  more  interesting  than 
this ;  still,  u  mere  outline  of  the  mode  of  cultivation  must 
suffice. 

They  generally  require  a  southern  exposure,  shel- 
tered as  much  as  possible  from  the  northerly  and  west- 
erly winds.  The  proper  season  for  transplanting  most 
bulbous  roots,  is  in  August,  September,  and  October. 
Delicate  and  tender  bulbs  should  be  kept  in  dry  sand 
until  April,  and  then  planted  in  pots  or  open  grounds, 
and  in  all  cases  protected  from  frost.  Tulips  and  Hya- 
cinths it  is  recommended  to  take  up  and  dry  them  in 
the  air,  and  replant  annually. 

Hyacinths,  Polyanthus,  Narcissus,  and  Jonquils,  make 
a  beautiful  appearance  during  the  winter,  in  the  par- 
lor. Bulbs  intended  to  bloom  in  this  season,  should  be 
put  in  pots  in  October,  or  November,  and  left  out  until 
frost  commences,  and  then  transferred  to  a  warm  room. 
They  will  need,  occasionally,  a  little  water,  until  they 
begin  to  grow,  when  they  should  have  both  air  and 
sun,  and  a  plenty  of  water  from  the  saucers  or  pans, 
beneath  them.  Those  bulbs,  as  Hyacinths,  which  are 
designed  to  flower  in  glasses  should  be  placed  in  them 


GENERAL     DIRECTIONS.  13 

in  the  latter  part  of  November,  having  first  filled  the 
glasses  with  rain-water,  so  that  the  bulb  may  come  in 
contact  with  it ;  then  place  them  in  a  dark  place,  for 
a  few  days,  to  promote  the  shooting  of  the  roots,  after 
which  expose  them  freely  to  the  sun,  change  the  water 
as  often  as  it  becomes  foul,  and  never  let  it  approach 
the  freezing  point.  Bulbous  roots,  growing  in  pots, 
should  be  frequently  turned  round,  lest  they  grow  in  an 
inclined  position,  from  their  being  attracted  towards  the 
light ;  the  earth  on  the  top  should  be  suffered  to  dry 
before  the  next  watering ;  when  the  plants  have  done 
growing,  give  them  little  or  no  water.  If  it  be  so 
managed  the  present  year,  as  not  to  have  a  flower-bud 
formed  in  miniature,  there  will  be  no  flower  in  the  next. 

If  the  leaves  be  well  grown,  and  the  plant  properly 
exposed  to  the  air  and  sun,  then  the  sap  will  be  duly 
prepared,  and  an  embryo-flower  will  be  formed  in  the 
bulb. 

All  buds,  in  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  are  dormant : 
this  state  commences  when  the  foliage  begins  to  decay, 
after,  blooming : — then  the  supply  of  water  should  be 
lessened,  and  in  a  short  time  cease  altogether,  until  the 
season  of  germination  returns.  The  bulbs  in  the  mean- 
time may  be  kept  in  the  pots,  in  a  dry  shady  place,  and 
in  the  same  temperature  in  which  they  are  most  suc- 
cessfully cultivated. 

Some  florists  recommend  to  take  the  bulbs  out  of  the 
pots  after  the  decay  of  the  foliage,  and  repot  them  in 
fresh  earth  a  week  or  two  before  the  period  of  reger- 
minating,  keeping  them  moderately  moist  by  watering. 
The  earth  should  be  kept  loose  at  top,  and  watered  with 
rain  or  river  water. 

The  proper  time  to  take  up  bulbous  roots  is  in  about 
a  month  after  blooming,  at  which  time  the  foliage  has 
a  yellowish  decayed  appearance.  Cut  off  the  stem  and 
foliage  within  an  inch  of  the  bulb,  leaving  the  fibrous 
roots  attached  to  it.  After  being  air-dried,  they  may 
be  placed  in  paper  or  dry  sand  until  replanted. 


14  GENERAL    DIRECTIONS. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  the  remarks  in  the  test 
of  the  following  pages,  with  regard  to  plants  that  will 
stand  the  cold  of  winter,  apply  to  the  winters  of  Ireland 
and  England,  and  not  to  those  of  the  United  States 
generally.  The  climate  of  England  and  Ireland  is 
milder  and  more  moist  than  that  of  this  country — our 
winters  are  colder  and  our  summers  warmer.  Such 
extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  of  dryness  and  moisture, 
therefore,  as  our  climate  is  subject  to,  renders  it  a  very 
trying  one  to  cultivated  exotics,  many  of  which  will  not 
thrive  well  unless  well  attended  to. 

In  the  English  edition  it  is  taken  as  granted,  that 
every  one  who  would  cultivate  a  flower  garden,  has  a 
"  pretty  general  knowledge  of  its  management ;"  and, 
consequently,  in  preparing  the  American  edition  for  the 
press,  I  have  been  obliged  to  add  much  matter,  in  the 
form  of  explanations  and  directions,  in  order  to  render 
it  intelligible  to  such  as  have  to  learn  both  the  terms 
used  by  florists,  and  the  practice  of  cultivating  plants 
at  the  same  time. 


MONTHLY   CALENDAR. 


NOVEMBER. 


BULBOUS  ROOTS  TO  BE  PLANTED. 

HYACINTH. 

CROCUS. 

SNOWDROP. 

ANEMONE,  SINGLE  AND  DOUBLE. 

RANUNCULUS. 

TULIP. 

NARCISSUS. 

JONQUIL. 

FRITILLARY. 

CROWN  IMPERIAL. 


OBSERVATIONS 

FOR 

NOVEMBER. 


A  CERTAIN  portion  of  Anemone  and  Ranunculus 
roots,  if  planted  at  this  time,  and  protected  from  frost, 
will  blossom  much  stronger  and  earlier,  and  afford  a 
more  abundant  increase,  than  those  planted  in  the 
spring. 


DAHLIA. 

When  the  first  light  frost  puts  a  stop  to  the  bloom 
of  the  Dahlia,  let  the  roots  be  taken  up,  and  laid  by 
the  heels,  in  rows  carefully  separated,  under  a  cover- 
ing of  four  or  six  inches  above  their  crowns,  in  a 
sunny  part  of  the  garden ;  this  will,  in  general,  be 
found  sufficient  in  this  climate*  to  protect  them  till 
spring  ;  but  should  circumstances  require,  as  in  the 
instance  of  severe  frost,  an  additional  covering  may 
be  given.  They  may  also  be  thus  protected  where 
they  grow  ;  either  method  will  be  attended  with  less 
loss  and  trouble,  than  the  usual  practice  of  stowing 
.them  in  cellars  or  in  sheds. 

*  This  remark  will  not  apply  to  the  northern  parts  of  the  United 
2* 


18       '  NOVEMBER. 


THE  MARVEL  OF  PERU, 

A  charming  rich  perennial  flower,  (one  of  those 
old-fashioned  plants  which  the  rage  of  novelty  has 
deserted  for  others  much  inferior)  if  treated  like  the 
Dahlia,  by  having  the  roots  taken  up  and  transplanted 
at  the  same  time  with  it,  will  flower  in  far  greater 
perfection,  than  when  cultivated  as  annuals  are  in  the 
manner  usually  practised. 

The  Camellia  Japonica,  or  Japan  Rose : — that 
charming  flower  of  modern  introduction,  from  Im- 
perial China  and  Japan — the  splendid  ornament  of 
our  green-houses  in  the  spring  months,  that  outrivals 
all  its  competitors  for  beauty  of  foliage,  symmetry 
of  form,  and  variety  of  color ;  wanting  no  quality 
but  perfume,  to  render  it  the  most  perfect  emblem 
of  Flora  herself,  may  now,  under  proper  manage- 
ment, afford  us  early  specimens  of  its  beauties,  by 
being  brought  forward  in  a  warmer  situation  than 
ordinary.  [See  the  drawing  at  the  commencement 
of  this  work.] 


GREEN  HOUSE. 

The  Chrysanthemum  Indicum  forms  now  the  prin- 
cipal attraction  of  the  green-houses. 

They  require  at  all  times  an  abundant  supply  of 
water,  and  great  attention  to  pick  off  the  decaying 
leaves  ;  indeed,  this  is  indispensable  at  all  seasons 
under  any  circumstances,  but  particularly  when 
crowded  in  a  confined  space  ;  ventilation  also  must 
be  strictly  attended  to,  whenever  the  thermometer 
stands  above  32°. 


NOVEMBER.  19 


STOVES. 

When  a  soft  and  sunny  day  occurs,  ventilation 
should  also  be  given  to  the  stoves,  and  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  air  should  be  maintained  between  the 
range  of  55°  and  65°  ;  all  plants,  at  some  season, 
require  a  state  of  repose  ;  to  urge  them  by  artificial 
excitement,  to  premature  growth,  at  a  period  when 
light  is  deficient,  and  when  fresh  air  is  necessarily 
excluded,  must  weaken  their  powers,  and  derange 
their  habits  to  a  degree  that  proves  pernicious,  even 
to  the  most  hardy. 


FLOWERING  SHRUBS  AND  HERBACEOUS 
PLANTS 

May  now  be  planted  in  light  and  dry  soils — if 
moist  or  cold,  the  planting  should  be  deferred  till 
spring ;  which,  after  all  that  has  been  said  or  writ- 
ten on  the  subject,  is  the  best  season  also  for  planting 
Evergreens — if  planted  in  the  winter  months,  they 
are  so  rocked  by  our  tempestuous  westerly  winds, 
as  to  have  but  little  chance  of  taking  root. 


LEAF  MANURE. 

As  the  leaves  fall,  let  them  be  raked  into  heaps, 
throughout  the  plantations ;  they  will  form,  when 
rotted,  a  most  valuable  ingredient  in  all  composts  ; 
without  a  preparation  of  a  suitable  description,  it  is 


20  NOVEMBER. 

impossible  to  cultivate  very  fine  flowers ;  that  to  be 
preferred  for  Hyacinths,  is  as  follows : 


COMPOST  FOR  HYACINTHS. 

One-fourth  of  surface  sod,  taken  about  two  or  three 
inches  thick,  well  turned,  and  broken  frequently  until 
all  the  vegetable  portion  is  reduced  to  perfect  mould ; 
one-fourth,  of  leaves  in  a  similar  state  ;  one-fourth  of 
cow  manure,  well  rotted;  one-fourth  of  fine  clean 
pit  or  river  sand,  (sand  of  decomposed  granite  should 
be  avoided,  as  it  becomes  of  a  clayey  quality — but 
where  turf-mould  can  be  procured,  it  should  form  a 
component  and  equal  part,  one-fifth  of  each.)  It  may 
be  procured  from  the  road-side,  or  from  the  side  of 
a  hill,  where  water  has  not  lodged.  A  very  stimu- 
lative manure  is  said  to  be  used  by  the  Dutch,  and 
is  thought  to  increase  the  brightness  of  the  colors ; 
but  it  is  considered  by  men  of  experience,  that  all 
manures  reduced  to  mould,  especially  cow  manure, 
are  quite  as  good  as  any  that  can  be  used.  The 
more  stimulative,  however,  may  be  of  advantage  in 
top  dressing. 


FORMATION  OF  BEDS  FOR  HYACINTHS. 

The  size  of  the  beds  must  be  regulated  according 
to  circumstances.  From  three  and  a  half  to  four  feet, 
is  the  most  convenient  width  for  weeding  and  dressing 
without  difficulty,  from  the  alleys.  They  should  be 
excavated  to  the  depth  of  about  two  feet ;  and  when 
finished,  should  rise  at  least  nine  inches  above  the 


NOVEMBER. 


21 


ground  level.  They  are  to  be  brought  to  this,  by 
placing  cow  manure,  well  rotted,  and  firmly  pressed 
at  the  bottom  of  the  excavation,  to  the  depth  of  four 
inches^  and  upon  this,  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  of 
the  foregoing  compost ;  in  which,  (sunk  two  inches 
from  its  surface,)  the  roots  are  to  be  planted  at  nine 
inches  apart,  every  way  laying  a  little  fine  sand 
under  and  around  the  sides  of  each  root ;  and  then 
over  the  wrhole,  in  rounded  form,  six  or  eight  inches 
of  peat,  or  of  fine  sandy  mould. 

The  requisites,  in  a  choice  of  situation  for  Hya- 
cinth beds,  should  be  good  shelter,  and  at  the  same 
time,  that  the  beds  should  be  so  circumstanced,  as  to 
continue  perfectly  dry  at  bottom : — moisture  lodging 
about  its  roots  is  destruction  to  a  Hyacinth.  This 
preparation  and  compost  will  answer  for  other  flower 
roots,  with  the  following  changes  as  to  the  propor- 
tions of  the  ingredients. 


COMPOST  FOR  TULIPS. 

Two  parts  (say  two  barrows)  of  sod  mould  ;  one 
ditto,  cow  manure  ;  one  ditto,  rotted  leaves ;  adding, 
if  the  sod  mould  be  in  itself  of  a  clayey  nature,  one 
barrow  of  fine  sand.  Let  the  roots  be  planted  in 
rows  nine  inches  asunder,  six  inches  apart  in  the 
row,  and  four  inches  deep  ;  the  largest  roots  in  the 
centre  of  the  bed.  It  is  of  advantage  to  Tulips,  in 
order  to  preserve  the  colors  clear  and  distinct,  to 
plant  them  in  alternate  years  in  a  strong,  and  in  a 
light  compost. 


22  NOVEMBER. 


COMPOST  FOR  RANUNCULUS. 

This  same  compost  will  answer  remarkably  well, 
but  that  it  may  be  advisable  to  place  the  roots  on  a 
stratum,  one  inch  deep,  of  unmanured  rotted  sod,  or 
other  very  good  fresh  earth. 

Plant  in  rows,  nine  inches  apart,  and  place  the 
roots  at  four  inches  distant  in  the  rows,  and  two 
inches  deep. 


COMPOST  FOR  ANEMONES. 

Precisely  the  same  compost  may  be  used,  omitting 
the  stratum  of  rotted  sod,  and  the  same  depth  and 
distances  accurately  observed  as  with  the  Ranuncu- 
lus ;  the  spring  crop,  planted  in  March,  generally 
succeeds  that  of  November,  closely. 


NARCISSUS. 


May  be  planted  in  good  loamy  soil,  dug  two  spades 
deep,  and  mixed  with  about  one-eighth  of  hot-bed 
manure,  well  rotted.  They  should  be  planted  in 
rows,  at  nine  inch  intervals ;  six  inches  apart  in  the 
row,  and  six  inches  deep. 


DOUBLE  JONQUILS. 

Should  be  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Nar- 
cissus, in  every  particular.     In  one  point,  however, 


NOVEMBER.  23 

a  change  becomes  necessary,  to  correct  a  defect  of 
soil,  by  which  the  Jonquil  is  often  rendered  worth- 
less, and  for  which  there  is  no  practical  remedy ;  but 
against  which  a  preventive  is  recommended  that  has 
been  found  effectual. 

The  Jonquil  is  frequently  known  to  run,  what  is 
called  carrot-rooted,  and  where  the  kind  of  soil  that 
leads  to  this,  prevails,  it  has  been  corrected  by  a 
plentiful  admixture  of  old  rotten  tan,  also  by  putting 
it  round  the  roots  in  the  spade  cut,  in  which  they  are 
planted,  and  by  covering  them  at  least  six  inches 
deep  with  the  tan ;  this  method  has  been  found  very 
advantageous,  particularly  in  dry  and  worn-out  gar- 
den beds — and  obviously  upon  the  following  princi- 
ple :  The  Jonquil  is  a  native  of  moist  meadow  land, 
and  rotted  tan  being  a  cool,  friable  substance,  reten- 
tive of  moisture,  supplies  its  natural  wants ; — nor  is 
it  unlikely,  that  the  carrotty  elongation  of  the  root, 
in  an  unfavorable  situation,  is  for  the  purpose  of 
reaching  its  proper  medium  of  temperature  and 
moisture  which  the  six-inch  covering  of  tan  supplies, 
so  as  not  to  impede  the  upward  growth. 

For  all  other  bulbs  before  mentioned,  a  good  and 
well-cultivated  garden  soil  will  be  sufficient ;  but  the 
better  treatment  they  receive,  the  more  creditable 
appearance  will  they  make. 


FORCED  FLOWERS  FOR  WINTER. 

Where  it  is  desirable  to  have  a  supply  of  those, 
the  roses  best  suited  are  the  Provence,  the  Moss, 
and  Quatre  Saisons  Rouge.  The  Persian  Lilac, 
and  Persian  Cyclamene,  are  also  adapted  to  this 


24  NOVEMBER. 

purpose.  Narcissus,  Jonquils,  Hyacinths,  and  Per- 
sian Iris,  may  now  be  brought  into  the  stove  or 
forcing  frame. 

The  bulbs  may  be  forced  in  earth,  water,  or  wet 
moss. 


HALF  HARDY  PLANTS, 

OUT  OF  DOORS. 

The  protection  of  these  must,  in  this  month,  be 
carefully  attended  to.  Cover  the  crowns  of  the 
Herbaceous  with  some  light  dry  substance,  as  leaves, 
turf-mould,  or  sand. 


TENDER  BULBS. 

Ixias  and  African  Gladiolus  may  also  be  treated 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  Herbaceous  plants. 


TENDER  SHRUBS, 

TRAINED  TO  WALLS. 

Let  these  be  protected  by  mats,  boughs  of  ever- 
green, thatch  of  fern  or  straw ;  but  the  most  par- 
ticular attention  should  be  paid  to  the  protection 
of  the  neck  or  collet  of  the  shrub,  which  is  that 
part  where  the  root  and  stem  unite  ;  and  which  is 
the  part  most  liable  to  injury,  and  to  protect  which 
from  the  severity  of  the  winter  is  of  the  greatest 
importance. 


NOVEMBER.  25 


Description  of  the  several  Flowers  mentioned  in  this 
month. 

HYACINTH. 

" Hyacinths  of  purest  virgin  white, 

Low  bent  and  blushing  inward ." 

The  Hyacinth  is  a  native  of  the  desert,  but  has 
been  cultivated  for  many  centuries  in  Holland  with 
great  success.  The  Dutch  have  always  been  re- 
markable for  the  improvement  of  their  bulbs ; — 
originally,  however,  all  double  flowers  were  lightly 
thought  of,  till  at  length  one  happened  to  make  its 
appearance,  which  when  cultivated  brought  a  great 
price.  This  circumstance  established  the  double 
kinds,  and  brought  them  into  universal  estimation. 
One  of  the  oldest,  named  "  The  King  of  Great  Bri- 
tain," is  said  to  have  been  sold  for  a  sum,  which  is 
as  incredible  as  it  would  be  imprudent  to  repeat ; 
but  it  is  certain  that  the  Dutch  florists  converted 
their  judicious  culture  of  bulbs  to  great  profit,  and 
even  to  stock  jobbing  speculations,  destructive  to 
many  persons  who  engaged  deeply  in  them.  Haer- 
lem  was  the  great  focus  of  bulbous  cultivation, 
where  the  soil  is  happily  gifted  by  nature  with  the 
requisites  for  Hyacinth  culture.  The  surface  con- 
sists of  light  vegetable  mould,  formed  by  the  decom- 
position of  leaves  and  other  vegetable  matter  mixed 
with  sand,  and  under  this  a  bed  of  pure  sand,  about 
a  foot  deep,  is  to  be  met  with,  which  latter  acts  as 
a  drain  to  free  the  upper  surface  from  the  redundant 
moisture  with  which  the  heavy  rains  and  melted 
snows  would  otherwise  inundate  it  in  winter,  to  the 

3 


26  NOVEMBER. 

destruction  of  the  roots  at  that  period.  This  circum- 
stance gave  rise  to  the  opinion,  that  the  superiority 
of  Haerlem,  in  respect  to  the  culture  of  this  flower, 
depended  upon  the  nature  of  its  soil. 

Amateur  florists  from  other  countries  have  been 
induced  to  examine  into  this,  and  the  result  has  been 
a  successful  imitation  of  the  Haerlem  soil,  by  the 
compost  heretofore  recommended. 

By  paying  a  minute  attention  to  the  preparation 
and  annual  removal  of  this  compost,  and  to  the  treat- 
ment of  the  bulbs,  there  is  no  reason  why  these  coun- 
tries should  not  produce  as  good  Hyacinths  from 
seed  and  offsets  as  any  other  ;  but  where  the  roots 
can  be  had  every  year  from  Holland,  on  such  mode- 
rate terms  as  they  now  can,  it  is  scarcely  worth  the 
trouble  to  propagate  them  at  home ;  certainly  not, 
as  to  sowing  the  seeds — the  great  pains  and  patience 
attendant  on  this  practice,  and  the  slight  remunera- 
tion of  half-a-dozen  good  flowers  out  of  a  thousand 
raised,  which  is  considered  a  fortunate  hit,  should 
determine  us  to  leave  it  in  the  hands  of  the  perse- 
vering Dutchman. 

The  Propagation  by  Offsets. 

May  be  tried,  and  is  as  follows : — Take  the  offsets 
from  the  bulbs  in  September,  plant  in  October,  be- 
tween two  and  three  inches  deep,  in  rows  on  a 
rounded  bed,  raised  above  the  ground-level  seven 
or  eight  inches ;  let  the  soil  be  sandy  or  mixed  with 
sand  ;  let  it  be  turned  eighteen  or  twenty  inches 
deep,  and  remarkably  well  pulverized ;  protect  the 
bed  from  severe  frost ;  keep  the  surface  stirred  and 
clean.  In  the  fourth  year  you  will  have  bulbs  fit 
to  be  removed  to  the  flowering  bed  formed  of  the 
approved  compost. 


NOVEMBER.  27 

It  is  particularly  recommended  by  the  Dutch 
florists  to  cut  down  the  flower-stalk  when  out  of 
flower,  but  not  to  remove  the  leaves  when  green, 
nor  until  they  have  gradually  died  away ;  by  these 
means  the  bulbs  will  be  stronger  for  the  next  year's 
blossom.  Great  care  must  be  taken  to  protect  the 
beds  from  heavy  rains,  so  as  to  take  up  the  bulbs 
dry  in  June  ;  they  should  be  preserved  in  sand,  sepa- 
rately, till  replanted  in  October  or  November.  The 
varieties  of  this  beautiful  flower  are  too  numerous  to 
insert,  and  the  names  given  to  them,  too  arbitrary 
and  absurd  to  introduce.  The  moderate  but  tasteful 
florist,  may  be  content  with  raising  good  flowers  of 
red,  white,  blue,  and  yellow ;  and  those  who  wish 
to  become  judges  of  the  perfection  of  the  flower, 
must  recognise  in  it  the  following  particulars,  and 
not  rest  satisfied  till  they  are  generally  procured. 


A  FINE  DOUBLE  HYACINTH. 

Should  be  grown  with  such  care  as  to  exhibit 
a  strong,  healthy,  tall,  and  straight  stem  ;  half  its 
length,  at  least,  close  covered  with  full  and  hori- 
zontal bells,  forming  a  compact  cone,  terminated  at 
top  by  one  upright  bell ;  whatever  may  be  the  color, 
it  must  be  clear  and  bright,  and  agreeably  diversified 
to  the  eye.  Flowers  of  this  description  are  worthy 
the  pains  of  cultivation.  1  shall  close  this  account 
of  the  Hyacinth  with  a  remark,  not  of  my  own,  but 
which  a  friend,  who  has  studied  the  Pantheon,  has 
helped  me  to ;  it  is  this  : — That  this  flower,  notwith- 
standing its  name,  is  not  that  into  which  a  friend  of 
Apollo,  who  bore  the  same  name,  was  metamor- 


28  NOVEMBER. 

phosed.  It  seems  that  Apollo  and  his  friend,  as  I 
am  informed,  were  playing  a  game  of  quoits,  or 
some  such  thing,  when  that  which  was  flung  by  the 
powerful  arm  of  his  godship,  hit  poor  Hyacinth  a 
iatal  blow  on  the  scull,  which  it  baffled  the  god's  skill 
to  remedy  ;  he  could  not  heal  the  wound,  nor  with 
all  his  divinity  recall  him  to  life,  but  he  had  the 
power,  it  seems,  of  turning  him  into  a  mighty  pretty 
Jlower ;  and  surely  that  must  have  been  a  great 
gratification  to  the  parties — to  the  dead  man  as  well 
as  to  his  surviving  godship  ;  but,  unluckily,  the 
honor  conferred,  is  disputed  by  another  flower,  called 
the  Martegan  Lily ;  now  if  the  Lily  was  entitled  to 
that  high  distinction,  how  has  it  contrived  to  lose 
the  name  it  acquired  by  the  metamorphosis  ?  That 
is  a  knotty  point,  which  my  classical  friend  could 
not  solve  for  me,  no  more  than  he  could,  account  for 
the  heathen  name  of  Hyacinth  becoming  a  Christian* 
name  in  the  county  of  Galway. 


CROCUS. 

"  Fair  handed  Spring  unbosoms  ev'ry  grace, 
Throws  out  the  Snowdrop  and  the  Crocus  first" 

The  Crocus  is  a  valuable  ornament  of  the  flower 
garden  in  the  early  spring,  when  its  rich  and  glow- 
ing blossoms  make  a  display  either  in  entire  beds, 
in  groups,  or  edgings.  The  Yellow  Crocus  is  the 
most  general ;  there  are  many  varieties,  however, 
blue  and  white,  purple  and  striped,  all  easily  culti- 
vated, and  all  worthy  of  being  cultivated.  The 

*  As  in  the  respectable  families  of  Daly,  Fallen,  &c.  &c. 


NOVEMBER.  29 

Autumn  Crocus,  also  the  Saffron-bearing,  and  the 
Colchicum,  are  ornamental,  the  last  kind  least  so  of 
any.  A  good  Crocus  should  be  bright  in  its  color, 
and,  when  variegated,  distinctly  marked.  It  is  to  be 
propagated  by  seed  when  new  kinds  are  sought  for ; 
and  to  be  increased  by  offsets,  which  will  blossom 
the  ensuing  year ;  they  multiply  rapidly ;  a  sandy 
loam  suits  them  best,  and  if  protected  from  mice, 
their  greatest  enemy,  they  may  remain  in  the  ground 
for  three  years ;  but  if  taken  up  every  year  when 
the  leaves  decay,  they  may  be  increased  with  greater 
facility.  October  is  the  best  season  for  replanting. 


SNOWDROP. 

.    "The  Snowdrop,  who,  in  habit  white  and  plain, 
Comes  on,  the  herald  of  fair  Flora's  train." 

CHURCHILL. 

The  Snowdrop  is  our  earliest  flower,  often  ap- 
pearing while  the  snow  is  on  the  ground,  a  hardy 
bulb  requiring  no  particular  culture  ;  it  is  directed 
that  the  bulbs  should  be  taken  up  every  third  year, 
and  replanted  in  groups  of  twenty,  at  an  inch  and  a 
half  asunder,  and  two  inches  deep ;  but  it  is  found 
by  experience,  that  they  may  remain  in  the  ground 
for  seven  years  with  good  effect.  The  great  Snow- 
drop is  similar,  but  double  the  size ;  the  common 
kind,  however,  is  preferable,  as  blossoming  much 
earlier,  sometimes  even  in  January.  The  larger 
sort  must  have  more  room,  and  should  be  planted 
five  inches  asunder,  at  least,  and  four  or  five  inches 
deep. 

3* 


30  NOVEMBER. 


ANEMONE  OR  WIND  FLOWER. 

"Anemones,  Auriculas  enriched 
With  shining  meal  o'er  all  their  velvet  leaves." 

The  month  of  November  is  mentioned  as  the 
middle  month  for  planting  the  Anemone,  which  may 
bo  done  in  October,  even  in  September,  and  also  in 
December,  to  secure  successions  of  bloom  from  the 
ensuing  spring,  each  of  which  will  last  nearly  a 
month,  commencing  in  that  of  April. 

But  for  a  full  and  prosperous  flower,  March  is 
the  safest  time  for  planting,  to  avoid  the  danger  of 
the  winter  frosts;  if -planted  in  the  dead  season  of 
December  and  January,  they  are  apt  to  rot  in  the 
ground  if  the  weather  be  not  unusually  mild ;  planted 
in  March,  they  bloom  well ;  but  in  April,  the  warmth 
of  the  season  hurries  them  too  rapidly,  or  they 
are  scorched  off  by  the  summer  heat.  The  same 
is  true  of  the  Ranunculus.  The  flower  beds  should 
be  placed  uppermost,  and  the  roots  planted  ten 
inches  apart,  and  two  inches  deep,  in  beds  of  the 
same  compost  used  for  the  Ranunculus,  which  in 
March  and  April,  if  the  weather  be  dry,  should  be 
frequently  watered,  either  in  the  evening  or  in  the 
morning  early. 

I  speak  here  of  the  Double  Anemone,  whose 
varieties  are  numerous,  and  whose  best  roots  are 
procured  from  Holland  or  France.  I  have  known 
the  finest  sorts  to  have  come  from  the  neighborhood 
of  Bourdeaux.  The  double  kinds  are,  all  of  them, 
a  most  desirable  acquisition  to  the  flower  garden. 
A  perfect  Anemone  should  have  its  flower-stem 
from  eight  to  nine  inches  in  height,  and  of  propor- 
tionate strength,  its  blossom  at  least  two  inches 


NOVEMBER.  31 

broad,  its  guard-leaves  large,  rounded,  horizontal, 
and  turning  a  little  upwards,  forming  thereby  a  cup, 
filled  in  richly,  with  long  fine  petals,  regularly  piled 
one  over  the  other,  not  crowded  confusedly,  whose 
colours,  as  well  as  those  of  the  exterior  leaves, 
should  be  bright  and  distinctly  marked  in  variegated 
flowers  ;  and,  as  it  were,  should  be  too  brilliant  for 
the  eye  to  rest  on,  in  those  that  are  of  a  single  color, 
which  is  termed  self-colored ;  many  of  those  that 
are  semi-double,  or  even  single,  are  highly  prized  ; 
and  the  commonest  kinds,  if  sown  in  masses,  make 
a  vivid  appearance,  at  a  season,  when  any  change 
from  the  dreariness  of  winter,  is  most  gratifying. 
When  the  leaves  are  faded,  the  roots  should  be 
spread  in  a  dry  and  safe  place,  and  occasionally 
turned  to  prevent  their  moulding,  which  from  their 
succulency  they  are  very  liable  to,  and  from  which 
they  never  recover.  In  about  three  weeks,  which 
is  the  fittest  period,  the  largest  offsets  should  be  sep- 
arated and  preserved  for  planting  ;  by  these  means, 
the  wounds  both  in  those  and  in  the  parent  root  will 
have  time  to  heal.  In  propagating  by  seed  there  is 
some  nicety  to  be  observed :  it  is,  of  course,  to  be 
saved  from  single  flowers,  and  few  double  ones  are 
to  be  expected  from  the  sowing.  A  few  very  good 
ones,  however,  may  be  produced  by  taking  the  seeds 
from  single  flowers,  of  brilliant  hue,  having  the 
greatest  number  of  petals.  The  seed  should  be 
gathered  into  a  paper  bag,  each  day,  as  the  seed 
vessel  begins  to  open,  otherwise  it  will  be  carried 
off  by  the  wind.  The  roots  thus  produced,  must  be 
nursed  till  the  third  year,  when  they  may  go  into 
the  beds  ;  they  will  blossom  the  second  year,  when 
they  may  be  marked  and  in  part  selected ;  all  this 
trouble  will  be  amply  repaid  by  a  few  good  flowers, 
and  the  remainder  will  embellish  the  borders  by  the 


NOVEMBER. 


brilliancy  of  their  colors,  if  not  by  the  perfection  of 
their  flowers, 


RANUNCULUS. 

"  And  full  Ranunculus  of  glowing  red." 

Miller  enumerates  seventeen  species,  with  terrible 
long  Latin  characteristic  names,  of  which,  of  course, 
I  could  not  explain  the  significations  to  my  reader, 
for  a  reason  which  I  have  already  made  known. 
These  are  almost  all  well  known  in  the  old  English 
gardens.  The  five  first  species,  which  this  celebra- 
ted man  names,  thrive  exceedingly  well  in  shady 
borders,  and  require  no  other  culture  than  to  have 
their  roots  taken  up  every  second  year  when  the 
leaves  decay,  lest  by  growing  too  large  they  should  rot 
each  other.  Many  of  the  other  sorts  were  originally 
brought  from  Turkey,  and  were  once  in  great 
esteem  in  England,  but  the  Asiatic  or  the  Persian, 
and  the  African  or  Turbaned,  are  the  two  kinds 
best  worth  cultivating ;  of  the  former,  the  varieties 
are  infinite — no  two  flowers  of  those  grown  from 
seed  being  precisely  alike  ;  they  require  very  deep 
soil,  as  has  been  mentioned  in  the  observations  for 
this  month.  Of  the  African  or  Turbaned,  there  are 
two  strongly-marked  varieties,  the  scarlet  and  jon- 
quil colored,  with  two  intermediate  varieties,  which 
are  striped.  The  roots  should  be  taken  up  when 
the  stems  decay,  and  preserved  dry — to  be  replanted 
in  succession  from  October  to  March ;  both  the 
Asiatic  and  African  should  be  planted  at  the  same 
season  ; — the  African  is  the  hardiest.  When  they 
appear  above  ground,  they  should  have  a  top  dress- 


NOVEMBER. 

ing,  of  about  one  inch  thick,  ;of  well  rotted  cow 
manure,  laid  in  between  the  rows  to  preserve  the 
roots  ;  they  should  be  treated  in  every  respect  like 
the  Anemone,  but  not  planted  so  deep — the  crown 
should  be  but  an  inch  and  a  half  beneath  the  surface. 
They  are  propagated  by  offsets,  by  dividing  the  tu- 
bers, and  by  seed. 

The  strongest  offsets  attain  perfection  in  the  season 
of  their  formation,  and  may  be  planted  in  a  few 
months  after  they  are  removed.  If  the  offsets  be 
not  planted  during  the  month  of  October,  it  will  be 
best  to  defer  the  planting  until  the  beginning  of 
February ;  if  there  should  be  a  hard  frost,  you  should 
cover  the  beds  with  hoops  and  mats,  or  with  an 
awning  supported  a  little  above  them,  especially  in 
spring  when  the  flower-buds  appear ;  for  if  these  be 
exposed  to  much  frost,  or  even  severe  wind,  they  will 
not  open  fairly. 

To  divide  the  tubers,  use  a  sharp  knife,  and  make 
as  many  portions  as  there  are  protuberances  from 
the  crown.  To  propagate  the  flower  by  seed  will 
require  minute  attention.  The  single  flower,  of  the 
African  or  Turbaned  kind,  is  not  to  be  had,  therefore 
the  seed  must  be  saved  from  the  best  colored  semi- 
double  flowers.  The  beds  should  be  examined 
twice  a  day  for  this  purpose,  at  the  time  that  the 
seed  begins  to  separate  from  the  axis  of  the  flowers ; 
it  must  then  be  preserved  dry  in  paper  bags,  and  sown 
in  boxes  in  October  or  January,  and  must  not  have 
more  than  one-tenth  of  an  inch  of  cover ;  it  must 
be  struck  under  glass,  but  with  great  care  to  exclude 
too  hot  a  sun :  when  fairly  up,  the  plants  must  have 
air,  and  gradually  be  removed  to  more  open  expo- 
sure where  they  may  have  full  sun  ;  and  whenever 
the  weather  is  mild,  the  glasses  should  be  entirely 
opened,  otherwise  the  plants  will  be  drawn  and 


34  NOVEMBER. 

weakly.  The  small  roots  which  are  formed  may 
be  paired  off  the  surface,  so  as  not  to  injure  the 
fibres ;  sifted  and  floated  in  water,  to  get  rid  of  the 
earth ;  dried,  and  planted  in  October,  when,  if  well 
attended  to,  many  flowers  may  be  expected  in  the 
following  season  ;  a  light  covering  of  tan  should  be 
given  to  the  beds,  in  all  cases,  to  prevent  the  fine 
earth  from  being  disturbed  in  watering.  The  ma- 
nure above  mentioned,  also  answers  for  this  pur- 
pose. 

The  Ranunculus  delights  in  a  rich,  light,  and 
sandy  soil ;  and  whenever  dung  is  mixed  with  the 
earth  instead  of  the  compost  already  recommended, 
it  should  be  very  rotten,  and  well  mixed  at  least  six 
months  before  it  is  used,  and  frequently  stirred  and 
turned.  Miller  is  qf  opinion  that  it  is  unadvisable 
to  sift  or  screen  the  earth  too  much,  observing 
merely,  that  the  clods,  in  digging  up  the  beds,  should 
be  carefully  broken  as  in  the  ordinary  operation  of 
garden  work ;  for  if  the  soil  be  too  fine,  it  is  apt  to 
bind  together  in  a  solid  lump  after  the  winter  rains, 
and,  consequently,  to  prevent  the  fibres  from  extend- 
ing themselves  freely. 

The  Scarlet  Turbaned  flower,  which  is  very 
hardy  and  most  brilliant,  if  planted  at  the  same  time 
with  the  Tulip,  will  bloom  contemporaneously  with  it. 

A  fine  Ranunculus  should  have  a  large  well-pro- 
portioned blossom,  of  six  inches  in  circumference, 
supported  on  a  stem  from  eight  to  ten  inches  in 
height ;  its  numerous  leaves  should  naturally  dimi- 
nish in  size  from  the  outer  circle  toward  the  centre 
of  the  flower,  forming  a  full  and  close  crown  of 
petals,  all  round-edged  and  of  brilliant  color,  whether 
self-colored  or  mixed ;  the  shape  of  this  admired 
flower  is  as  attractive  as  its  hues,  and  on  an  ex- 
tensive scale  of  plantation,  is,  perhaps,  the  most 


NOVEMBER.  35 

gratifying  object  in  the  flower  garden  or  pleasure 
ground. 

The  Ranunculus  requires  frequent  watering  in 
small  quantities  between  the  rows,  but  not  on  the 
flowers. 

By  sowing  seeds  every  year  you  will  not  only 
increase  your  stock  of  roots,  but  also  raise  new  varie- 
ties, which  may  be  considerably  improved  by  chang- 
ing the  seed  into  fresh  ground,  for  if  the  same  seed 
be  continually  sown  in  the  same  garden,  it  will 
degenerate.  This  is  a  general  law  in  al)  plants. 
As  spring  advances,  the  plants  should  be  exposed  to 
the  influence  of  the  open  air,  first  near  the  shelter  of 
a  wall,  but  in  April  place  them  in  a  more  shady  sit- 
uation, according  to  the  warmth  of  the  season,  and 
where  they  may  have  only  the  morning  sun. 


TULIP.* 

"  Then  comes  the  Tulip  race,  whose  beauty  plays 
Her  idle  freaks." 

This  month  is  considered,  both  by  private  and 
public  florists,  to  be  the  best  for  planting  the  bulbs 
of  Tulips  ;  if  earlier,  they  may  meet  some  harsh 
weather  in  February  and  March  to  interfere  with 
their  future  bloom ;  if  later,  they  blossom  more  weak- 
ly, and  many  of  the  roots  decay  if  kept  over  ground 
any  longer.  The  soil  best  suited  to  these  plants  is 
very  sjmilar  to  that  which  is  recommended  for  the 
Ranunculus.  Perhaps  the  best  is  that  supplied  from 
a  light  sandy  pasture  with  the  sod  rotted  amongst 
it,  and  a  fourth  part  sea  sand :  lay  this  mixture,  or 

*  Tulip  is  a  Turkish  name,  signifying  a  cup. 


-36  NOVEMBER. 

any  other  fit  compost,  ten  or  twelve  inches  deep, 
and  plant  the  bulbs  at  the  depth  of  four  or  five 
inches,  and  let  the  offsets  be  planted  pretty  thickly 
in  beds  by  themselves.  When  they  come  up  in 
spring,  stir  up  the  surface  earth  gently,  and  clear  off 
weeds,  and  as  the  buds  appear,  guard  them  as  has 
been  directed  for  the  Ranunculus.  When  in  flower, 
the  finer  sorts  should  be  protected  from  sun,  rain, 
and  wind,  and  the  loftier  kinds  secured  by  tyings 
of  green  worsted  to  horizontal  caps  painted  green, 
running  along  the  back  of  each,  and  made  tight  to 
stakes  at  the  corner  of  the  beds.  When  the  flowers 
are  decayed,  and  the  seed  vessels  beginning  to  swell, 
break  them  off  at  the  top  of  the  stalks,  else  the  roots 
will  be  weakened. 

A  good  Tulip  should  be  of  a  bright  color  at  the 
bottom  of  the  cup,  either  white  or  yellow.  The  cup 
ought  to  be  full  and  round,  and  rather  wider  at  the 
top  than  below.  The  leaves  or  petals  should  be 
six  in  number,  (three  within  and  three  without,  the 
former  larger  than  the  latter,)  rounded  on  the  upper 

±,  and  broken  into  distinct  and  brilliant  streaks  of 
*,  the  central  streak  of  each  leaf  feathering  to  its 
edges,  in  clear  and  well-defined  points,  and  this  hand- 
some cup  should  be  supported  by  a  stem  from  twenty 
to  thirty  inches  in  height,  and  of  sufficient  substance 
to  preserve  its  upright  position.  This  flower  cannot 
be  too  rich  in  its  coloring,  provided  there  be  no 
mixture  or  confusion,  and  that  the  bottom  of  the  cup 
always  be  of  pure  white  or  yellow,  free  from  the 
encroachment  of  any  other  color:  when  out  of 
flower,  the  seed-cup  should  be  cut  off,  to  swell  and 
strengthen  the  bulb.  When  the  leaves  are  withered, 
the  bulbs  should  be  taken  up  with  the  stems;  and 
this  should  be  done  every  year,  or  they  will  degene- 
rate. It  is  good  also  to  replant  them  in  fresh  soil, 


NOVEMBER.  37 

choosing  a  day  without  sun  for  taking  them  up. 
They  should  be  suffered  to  dry  on  a  boarded  floor 
in  an  airy  place ;  when  perfectly  dry,  the  fibres 
should  be  rubbed  off  the  stems,  and  separated  from 
the  bulbs,  which  should  be  laid  by,  distinctly  and 
safely,  the  offsets  being  also  taken  off  until  the  season 
for  planting  them  in  the  compost  prepared  for  them, 
as  recommended  in  page  23. 


SPECIES  OF  TULIPS. 

There  are  forty-one  varieties  named  by  Miller, 
but  they  are  all  resolvable  into  early  and  late  flow- 
ering ;  of  the  former  sort,  the  Van  Thols  are  chiefly 
used ;  in  order  to  flower  in  April,  they  should  be 
planted  in  September,  and  in  pots  or  boxes  if  to 
embellish  the  drawing-room  or  green-house.  The 
Me  are  divided  into  Baguets,  By-blowers,  and  Bi- 
zarres.  The  Baguets  are  tall,  their  cups  correctly 
shaped,  with  white  bottoms,  broken  into  fine  brown, 
all  from  the  same  breeder. 

By-blowers  have  cups  with  white  bottoms,  broken 
into  a  variety  of  colors,  from  different  breeders,  and 
are  much  variegated  and  broken.  Those  flowers 
denominated  breeders  are  from  seed,  and  are  self 
or  single  colored,  with  a  white  or  yellow  bottom. 
They  are  very  uncertain  in  their  time  of  breaking 
or  producing  a  variety  of  colors ;  but  this  result  is 
said  to  be  produced  by  their  being  planted  in  a  poor 
and  gravelly  soil,  in  order  that  by  a  deficiency  of 
nutriment  in  the  earth,  the  luxuriance  of  the  plant 
may  be  checked,  by  which  it  breaks  out  into  varie- 
gations in  the  first,  second,  and  third  years ;  and 
when  the  breaking  of  the  color  is  once  effected,  if 

4 


38  -NOVEMBER. 

the  bulbs  be  transplanted  to  a  rich  and  suitable 
compost,  it  is  stated  that  those  and  the  flowers  are 
thereby  strengthened,  whilst  the  breaking  acquired 
in  the  poorer,  by  the  transition  to  "the  richer  soil, 
remains  unchanged.  The  process  of  raising  these 
breeders  from  seed  is  much  the  same  as  in  the  case 
of  other  bulbous  roots,  but  requires  minute  attention 
and  a  long  apprenticeship  of  patience  and  perse- 
verance. 

The  Dutch  roots  and  their  offsets  might  satisfy 
the  moderate  florist ;  for  they  are  still  most  to  be  re- 
lied on,  and  are  not  very  costly  in  the  general  lists. 
Those  who  suffer  under  the  tulip  madness  which 
once  prevailed  in  Holland,  and  has  been  described 
by  so  many  writers  on  this  flower,  but  which  shall 
not  be  inflicted  on  my  readers,  may  still  indulge  in 
extravagant  prices,  and  try  whether  they  can  exceed 
the  less  expensive  florists.  One  curious  circumstance 
in  relation  to  this  flower  beyond  any  other  is,  that  in 
any  of  its  stages,  (except,  perhaps,  in  the  seed-box,)  it 
never  requires  to  be  watered. 


NARCISSUS. 

"Narcissus  drooping  o'er  his  rill, 
Keeps  his  odorous  beauty  still." 

This  order  includes  the  common  Daffodil  and  fra- 
grant Jonquil.  The  former  need  not  be  enlarged  on, 
in  this  brief  treatise.  The  Jonquils,  both  single  and 
double,  are  much  in  request.  Their  treatment  is  the 
same  as  that  of  the  Narcissus ;  the  species  are  nume- 
rous, but  of  these  the  most  approved  kinds  are  the 
Polyanthus,  comprising  many  varieties,  the  white  or 
poetical  Narcissus,  and  the  Italic 


NOVEMBER.  39 

A  good  one  should  be  of  clear  and  distinct  colors, 
with  its  clusters  of  flowers  blossoming  at  the  same 
time,  and  all  supported  by  upright  and  firm  stalks. 
The  Cyprus  Narcissus,  a  variety  of  the  Polyanthus 
Narcissus,  is  very  double,  the  exterior  leaves  white,  the 
interior  some  white,  some  orange  :  it  is  considered 
a  handsome  variety,  and  is  of  an  agreeable  odor. 
The  double  Italian  Narcissus,  imported  from  Italy, 
is  most  fragrant. 

The  poetical  Narcissus  is  very  beautiful,  with  fine 
snow-white  petals,  and  a  yellow  cup,  fringed  with 
bright  purple  or  pink.  This  is  termed  poetical,  being 
celebrated  in  verse  as  the  subject  of  another  whim- 
sical metamorphosis. 

Poor  Hyacinth  was  killed  by  a  quoit,  but  the  fool- 
ish Narcissus,  it  seems,  died  for  love,  not  of  some 
beautiful  nymph  or  blooming  maid,  but  of  his  own 
sweet  person,  or  rather  of  its  shadow  in  the  water. 
The  nymphs,  they  say,  who  admired  his  beauty, 
though  not  quite  as  much  as  he  himself  did,  intended 
him  a  merry  wake  ;  but  when  they  came  for  the 
corpse  in  all  form,  they  could  find  nothing  but  another 
mighty  pretty  flower  drooping  its  lovely  head,  as  he 
was  wont  to  do,  over  the  same  fountain — aye,  and 
at  the  same  spot  too, — which  put  the  matter  beyond 
all  dispute  ;  and  the  only  difficulty  now  remaining  is, 
that  the  poet,  as  my  friend  assures  me,  said  the  flower 
into  which  the  deceased  was  changed,  was  yellow, 
and  to  prove  this,  has  sent  me  the  following  quota- 
tion : — 

"  Instead  whereof  a  yellow  flower  was  found, 
With  tufts  of  white  about  the  button  crown'd." 

Whereas  the  modern  florists  declare  it  to  be  white  ; 
and  I  should  be  inclined  to  back  the  florists.  In 
justice  to  the  poet,  however,  I  must  admit  that  the 


40    »  NOVEMBER. 

soleil  d'or,  a  much-admired  Narcissus,  is  yellow;  and 
as  there  are  many  shades  between  yellow  and  white, 
it  might  require  a  jury  of  florists  to  decide  this 
knotty  point :  all  /  have  to  do  is  to  tell  my  readers 
how  to  cultivate  and  increase  them,  which  is  to  be 
done  through  the  medium  of  the  compost  recom- 
mended in  the  observations,  in  which  plant  .them  four 
inches  deep,  and  four  inches  apart,  root  from  root, 
and  when  frost  sets  in,  cover  them  with  rotten  tan 
or  straw,  and  be  most  careful  about  the  offsets,  which 
should  be  taken  off  in  June  or  July,  on  raising  the 
bulbs,  and  planted  at  the  same  time  that  they  are — 
from  October  to  February.  The  bulbs,  if  left  in  the 
ground,  (which  they  .ought  not  to  be,)  will  blossom 
naturally  in  May;  and  at  a  later  and  earlier  season, 
according  to  the  time  of  planting.  In  Holland  the 
gardeners  take  them  up  as  soon  as  the  leaves  fade. 
This  cannot  be  our  practice,  however,  when  we  re- 
quire offsets  *  in  which  case  the  plant  must  remain 
two  years  in  the  ground.  These  offsets  require  the 
same  culture.  Do  not  water  till  the  green  leaf  ap- 
pears. 

The  common  Daffodil  is  very  hardy,  and  generally 
planted  among  other  common  bulbous  roots,  in  bor- 
ders, or  in  the  foreground  of  shrubberies,  under  the 
shade  of  which,  without  the  trouble  of  transplanting, 
it  will  freely  yieltf.  its  flowers  in  spring. 

Jonquils  should  also  be  planted  in  beds  or  borders, 
and  transplanted  every  alternate  year,  else  their 
flowers  will  deteriorate ;  or  at  least  the  earth  should 
be  frequently  renewed,  which  will  have  the  effect  of 
preserving  them  in  perfection. 

The  soil  in  which  they  succeed  best,  is  dry  loam, 
without  dung. 


NOVEMBER. 


41 


FRITILLARY. 

" if  at  noon  the  Fritillary  droops, 

With  drops  nectareous  hang  her  drooping  cups." 

The  three  sorts  of  Fritillaries  are,  the  common, 
the  Persian,  and  the  Crown  Imperial.  They  are  val- 
uable as  early  blowers  ;  the  latter  is  ornamental  and 
showy  in  roomy  borders.  They  are,  however,  some- 
times displayed  to  great  advantage,  by  being  planted 
in  alternate  rows  with  the  Dogs-tooth  Violet ;  both 
flower  at  the  same  time,  the  latter  furnishing  the  beds 
with  its  broad  leaves,  which  would  otherwise  have 
a  naked  appearance  from  the  bare  stems  of  the  Fri- 
tillaries. The  common,  or  Fritillaria  Meleagris, 
(called  Fritillaria,  from  the  markings  of  its  petals 
like  a  chess-board)  grows  from  nine  to  twelve  inches 
high. 

The  Persian,  cultivated  by  botanists  rather  than  by 
florists,  is  tender.  The  Crown  Imperial,  a  fine  stately 
and  beautiful  flower,  is  hardy,  strong,  and  well 
adapted  to  shrubberies,  and  would  be  much  more  in 
esteem,  were  it  not  for  the  rank  odor  which  it  ex- 
hales, resembling  that  of  a  fox :  it  has  several  vari- 
eties, principally  single  and  double  red,  single  and 
double  yellow,  and  striped-leaved,  all  very  orna- 
mental. Their  propagation  is  by  offsets ;  if  by  seed, 
great  care  will  be  required,  as  in  the  raising  of  the 
more  precious  bulbs ;  but  it  is  not  worth  the  atten- 
tion and  the  time  required.  In  the  different  kinds 
above  mentioned,  it  would  take  from  four  to  six  years 
to  bring  them  to  perfection.  An  old  writer  on  gar- 
dening observes,  that  "  patience  and  care  are  the 
chief  ingredients,  as  we  cannot  have  a  blow  from  the 
seed-bed  under  six  years ;  but  then  by  continuing  to 

4* 


42  NOVEMBER. 

sow,  we  shall,  after  that  time,  have  every  year  some- 
thing to  reward  and  delight  us  :  this  has  been  my 
practice  with  the  perennial  bulbous-rooted  flowers, 
and  in  a  few  years  I  was  fully  rewarded." 

In  the  compost  recommended,  the  bulbs  of  Fritil- 
laries  prosper  ;  the  dwarf  kinds  should  be  planted  at 
about  four  inches  in  depth,  and  at  four  inches  apart  in 
the  row;  those  of  the  Dogs-tooth  Violet,  at  four  inches 
in  depth,  and  at  two  inches  apart  in  the  row.  The 
Crown  Imperial  should  beat  six  or  eight  inches  depth ; 
they  should  all  be  taken  up  every  second  year,  as 
soon  as  the  leaves  are  withered,  and  replanted  in  two 
months  at  farthest,  recollecting  in  the  intermediate 
year,  to  top-dress  the  beds  before  winter,  with  virgin 
earth. 


REMARKS. 

In  any  flower  garden  or  shrubbery  that  has  suffi- 
cient space  for  it,  I  would  suggest  the  erection  of  a 
rude  piece  of  rock  work,  which,  when  raised  with 
taste  and  judgment,  presents  a  pleasing  contrast  to 
the  formal  parterre.  Besides,  it  may  be  rendered 
really  useful  as  well  as  ornamental,  by  affording  a 
position  for  those  dwarf  shrubs  and  plants,  which 
would  be  overwhelmed  amidst  the  luxuriant  vegeta- 
tion of  the  flower  borders.  Here  they  may  display 
their  miniature  beauties  to  the  greatest  advantage. 
I  shall  tell  you  how  to  form  a  piece  of  rock  work, 
which,  according  to  the  circumstances  of  space,  &c. 
may  be  either  a  mound,  bristling  with  rocks  on  every 
side,  with  a  winding  path  for  ascent,  or  a  pigmy 
clump  for  Lilliputian  plants. 

As  to  shape,  it  may  be  of  any  that  will  present 
the  least  artificial  aspect,  and  this  must  be  deter- 


NOVEMBER.  4JI 

mined  by  localities, — perhaps  the  most  pleasing  form 
is  that  of  a  steep  shelving  bank  connected  with  a 
grotto  in  the  centre,  and  extending  its  arms  on  each 
side  to  embrace  a  spreading  piece  of  water,  formed 
by  a  stream  flowing  from  the  grotto.  Let  the  rock 
project  naturally,  with  interstices  or  intervals  be- 
tween the  stones,  for  the  insertion  of  plants,  to  be 
placed  around  in  the  most  suitable  aspect,  and  in  the 
soils  most  adapted  to  their  natures,  under  which 
there  should  be  a  substratum  of  matter  most  gene- 
rally acceptable  to  them,  and  this  I  consider  to  be 
well  rotted  sod-mould,  mixed  with  a  portion  of  rotten 
leaves  and  fine  sand,  the  nucleus  to  consist  of  any 
other  substance  not  too  dry  or  porous,  as  its  shape 
and  elevation  will  secure  it  from  a  redundancy  of 
moisture. 

On  the  banks,  and  in  the  water,  may  be  placed  a 
variety  of  aquatics,  native  or  exotic,  as  the  Water 
Lily,,  a  flower  of  tropical  growth — 

In  virgin  beauty  blows 


The  tender  Lily  languishingly  sweet" — 

Meriyanthes,  and  several  others  highly  ornamental. 

On  the  high  and  dry  parts  of  the  rock  I  would 
place  Cape  Heaths,  and  those  small  flowers,  of  every 
form  and  season,  which  will  bear  our  climate. 

Having  now  gone  through  the  chief  bulbs  and 
roots  to  be  planted  and  attended  to  in  November,  I 
shall  subjoin  a  calendral  index  for  this  month,  show- 
ing the  Botanic  Names,  the  Natural  Order,  and  Lin- 
nsean  Class  and  Order  of  each,  with  which  a  scien- 
tific friend  has  obligingly  supplied  me. 


44 


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DECEMBER. 

WITH  respect  to  the  operations  of  this  month, 
unless  in  some  measure  to  repair  the  neglects  of  the 
last,  it  would  seem  to  be  dormant  as  to  the  culture 
of  the  flower  garden.  The  industrious  florist  will 
nevertheless  find  much  to  occupy  his  time,  in  pre- 
serving in  order  what  he  has  already  done,  and  in 
making  preparation  for  future  successions.  The  bulbs 
which  have  been  planted,  as  directed  in  the  fore- 
going month,  must  be  protected  from  frost  by  some 
artificial  covering.  Litter  will  answer  this  purpose, 
but  is  unseemly ;  when  made  use  of,  it  should  be 
neatly  tied,  so  that  when  removed  in  mild  weather, 
it  shall  not  have  dirted  or  deformed  the  beds  and 
alleys.  Where  it  can  be  done  with  equal  conve- 
nience, a  temporary  awning  of  canvass  or  matting 
will  have  a  neater  appearance,  and  will  preserve 
cleanliness ;  it  should,  however,  be  but  temporarily 
used,  and  in  the  above  mentioned  cases  of  emer- 
gency. Evergreen  boughs,  sawdust,  or  turf-mould, 
will  protect  sufficiently  from  frost.  Nevertheless, 
a  neatness  of  effect  will  result  from  the  other  prac- 
tice, and  a  judicious  and  systematic  awning  is  al- 
ways transferable  to  its  appropriate'  use,  which  is 
that  of  shading  the  flowers  when  in  blossom.  I  am 
not  for  recommending  extravagance  in  any  depart- 
ment :  but  there  are  few  who  can  indulge  in  bulbous 
roots  worth  cultivating,  who  may  not  venture  the 
additional  cost  of  well-constructed  awnings,*  with 

*  On  the  subject  of  awnings,  I  have  been  informed  by  a  scientific 
friend,  for  indeed  I  am  no  philosopher,  that  awnings  of  a  lighter 


46  DECEMBER. 

rod-iron  frames,  which  are  by  no  means  expensive, 
considering  their  durability.  Unless  on  the  great 
scale  of  splendid  gardening,  supported  by  unbounded 
affluence,  the  floral  department,  even  to  excel,  should 
be  confined  within  moderate  limits, — and  if  so,  the 
necessary  adjuncts,  as  above  mentioned,  will  not 
much  increase  the  annual  expenditure.  Auriculas 
in  pots,  and  Carnation  layers,  must  now  be  attended 
to  ;  for  though  they  may  thrive  without  extra  care, 
the  blossom  cannot  be  expected  to  succeed  so  well 
as  with  it.  The  fine  stage  Auriculas  and  Carnations 
should  always  be  kept  in  pots  placed  in  frames ; — 
every  mild  day,  when  fair,  the  covering  should  be 
taken  off,  or,  if  the  day  be  wet,  it  should  be  so  raised 

description  than  commonly  used,  are  preferable ;  and  if  they  are  sus- 
pended at  a  moderate  distance  from  the  bed  to  be  sheltered,  they  are 
more  effectual  than  if  placed  in  contact ;  and  this,  I  am  told,  depends 
on  the  principle  of  radiation  ;  now  this  principle,  as  I  read  in  one  of 
those  admirable  little  books  of  Mr.  Rennie,  is  the  spreading,  or  send- 
ing off  heat,  which  arises  from  heat  passing  from  a  hot  body  to  a 
colder  one  near  it  ;  this  spreading  of  heat  takes  place  between  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  and  the  air ;  and  when  the  air  is  cold,  though 
the  soil  be  warm,  it  soon  loses  its  heat,  and  dew  or  hoar-frost  is  formed 
on  the  grass,  by  the  moisture  in  the  air  becoming  condensed  and 
frozen  at  the  same  time. 

But  when  the  sky  is  covered  by  clouds,  this  radiations  and  loss  of 
heat,  is  in  a  great  measure  prevented ;  and  hence,  there  is  no  dew  or 
hoar-frost  found  on  a  calm  cloudy  night.  On  this  same  principle, 
garden  plants  are  protected  by  matting  or  awning,  which  stops  the 
heat  of  the  soil  from  diffusing  itself  about,  and  being  lost  in  the  air. 

A  friend  of  Mr.  Rennie's  stretched  a  cambric  handkerchief  at  six 
inches  above  a  grass-plat,  which  was  five  degrees  warmer  under  the 
handkerchief,  than  in  any  exposed  part :  my  own  friend  states,  that 
on  a  frosty  night,  the  difference  of  heat  was  four  degrees,  between  the 
portion  covered  by  a  screen,  at  four  inches  from  the  ground,  and  one 
in  immediate  contact  with  it. 

From  both  instances  we  may  conclude,  that  our  awning  or  cover 
should  be  at  some  distance  from  the  flower-bed,  and  of  a  light  ma- 
terial ;  all  this  is  very  interesting,  and  I  believe  very  true.  I  know 
my  friend  would  not  mislead  me,  and  I  have  also  the  fullest  reliance 
upon  Mr.  Rennie. 


DECEMBER.  47 

as  to  permit,  as  much  as  possible,  the  free  circulation 
of  air. 

The  same  caution  must  be  observed  in  the  green- 
house, to  guard  carefully  against  fogs  and  damp, 
which  are  very  pernicious ;  but  in  clear  weather 
the  admission  of  abundant  air  should  be  daily  at- 
tended to ;  indeed  the  green-house  cannot  be  pre- 
served from  damp  by  any  means  but  by  the  free 
admission  of  air— and  free  circulation,  when  the 
weather  suits,  is  the  best ;  water  must  occasionally 
be  given,  but  in  great  moderation,  otherwise  a  sickly 
hue  will  become  general  through  the  plants,  and  the 
leaves  will  turn  yellow  and  fall  off;  any  that  do  fall 
off,  and  all  decayed  wood,  should  be  removed. 

All  seedling  plants  arid  roots  should  now  be  pro- 
tected. The  pots  and  boxes,  if  riot  under  cover, 
should  be  placed  in  dry  and  warm  borders,  and  the 
pots  sunk  in  the  earth  as  a  protection  against  frost: 
these  are  all  brief  and  easy  operations,  but  there  are 
other  necessary  labors  to  be  attended  to.  In  prun- 
ing flowering  shrubs,  as  Roses,  &c.,  the  old  wood 
should  be  cut  out,  and  the  young  retained  at  a 
proper  distance,  and  where  it  has  become  long  and 
straggling,  it  should  be  shortened.  Suckers  of  Roses 
should  be  bedded  in  a  nursery,  until  they  acquire 
strength  sufficient  to  plant  out.  Roses,  where  re- 
quired to  flower  in  perfection,  should  be  pruned  and 
well  manured  regularly ;  rotten  dung  is  the  most 
effectual,  and  indeed  they  can  scarcely  get  too  much 
of  the  best  rotted  cow  and  horse  manure.  Other 
shrubs,  when  delicate  and  sickly,  should  be  fed  with 
well-reduced  vegetable  mould,  which  is  a  panacea ; 
they  are  all  better  for  having  the  ground  lightly  dug 
round  them  every  year. 

Advantage  should  be  taken  of  the  leisure  which 
this  dead  season  of  the  year  affords,  to  prepare  com- 


48  DECEMBER. 

posts  of  all  sorts,  and  in  frosty  weather  to  sweeten 
and  pulverize  those  already  prepared,  by  succes- 
sively removing  the  frozen  crust,  until  the  whole 
has  undergone  this  useful  operation.  No  agent  so 
effectually  mellows  and  pulverizes  the  soil  as  frost, 
which  penetrates  and  separates  every  particle  of 
which  it  is  composed. 

The  vacant  borders  should  be  carefully  dug,  all 
the  walks  cleaned  and  rolled,  and  above  all,  a  new 
compost  heap,  similar  to  that  mentioned  in  the  ob- 
servations of  the  last  month,  should  be  commenced 
for  the  ensuing  year. 

Out  of  doors  a  general  gloom  now  prevails  in  the 
flower  garden,  when  not  enlivened  by  plantations  of 
showy  evergreens.  These  are  consolatory,  and  re- 
mind us  of  better  times  past  and  to  come.  The 
brilliant  striped  and  plain  hollies,  with  scarlet  and 
yellow  berries,  the  arbutus,  the  laurel,  and  above 
all,  the  humble  lauristinus,  which  still  blooms  in 
sheltered  situations.  Let  your  walks  and  winter 
garden  be  decorated  by  a  judicious  selection  from 
the  rich  variety  the  nurseries  afford,  and  the  eye 
will  scarcely  regret  the  bloom  of  summer.  In  the 
green-house,  some  of  the  Heaths  from  the  Cape 
exhibit  their  varied  blossoms  ;  the  chrysanthemum 
and  the  camellias  begin  to  display  their  beauteous 
and  symmetric  flowers. 

The  stove  also,  where  this  luxury  is  in  use,  now 
boasts  of  its  roses,  tulips,  hyacinths,  &c.,  rendering 
these  appendages  to  the  garden  doubly  dear  to  its 
tasteful  admirers. 


50 


PLAN  OF  A  FLOWER-GARDEN. 


JANUARY. 

The  operations  of  this  month  differ  but  little  from 
those  of  the  last,  it  being  considered  one  of  the  dor- 
mant months ;  much  may  be  done,  however,  as  to 
moving  shrubs  and  herbaceous  plants,*  which  in 
the  exterior  borders  may  be  made  to  constitute  a 
great  ornament  as  well  as  shelter  to  the  flower  gar- 
den. This  is  a  proper  time  also  for  edging  the  beds, 
and  even  for  forming  a  flower  garden  where  none 
existed  before.  Numerous  fantastic  shapes  have 
been  suggested  for  this  purpose  in  many  books,  old 
and  new.  I  would  suggest  an  extremely  neat  and 
simple  plan  of  one  which  I  have  recently  seen  near 
Dublin,  at  St.  Helena,  the  rural  residence  of  Dr. 
Harty. 

It  needs  but  little  description.  The  great  oval 
(which  is  to  be  first  formed)  has  a  fall  of  twenty 
inches  from  the  centre  to  the  circumference.  The 
figures  1,  2,  3,  &c.,  refer  to  corresponding  plats. 
The  dark  shading  in  the  narrow  boundary  walks  is 

« 

*  It  has  been  complained  of  by  many,  and  with  great  justice,  that 
those  who  write  or  speak  of  matters  with  which  they  are  themselves 
acquainted,  are  top  apt  to  consider  others  equally  so,  and  to  leave 
various  terms,  which  they  have  occasion  to  use,  altogether  unex- 
plained. I  wish  to  avoid  this  as  much  as  possible,  being  often 
puzzled  myself  upon  such  occasions.  As  to  shrubs  and  herbaceous 
plants,  though  pretty  generally  understood,  I  would  hint  that  the 
former  are  divided  into  evergreens  which  retain,  and  deciduous 
which  lose,  their  leaves;  also  into  those  of  higher  and  lower  growth; 
among  the  first  are  the  Lilac,  Laburnum,  Acacia,  Laurel,  Portugal 
Laurel,  and  Arbutus  :  in  general,  however,  the  shrub  is  of  low  and 
spreading  growth  :  the  herbaceous  plants  are  those  which  preserve 
their  roots,  but  lose  their  stems  in  winter,  as  the  Fuchsia,  Campa- 
nula, &c.  &c. 


JANUARY. 

to  represent  those  portions  of  them  which  are  under 
close-mown  grass.  A  hedge  of  Cytisus  surrounds 
the  whole,  for  ornament  and  shelter. 

Uniformity,  without  formal  stiffness,  characterizes 
the  entire  plan,  the  principle  of  which  may  obviously 
be  applied  and  accommodated  to  any  dimensions  of 
flower-knot. 

Then  for  an  edging — Box  is  chiefly  recommended. 
This  is  not  always  kept  in  order,  and  in  such  case  is 
a  harbor  for  vermin.  Box  is  the  most  greedy  and 
rapacious  bloodsucker  of  every  thing  within  its  reach, 
the  exhauster  of  the  virtues  of  the  richest  compost ! 
Next  come  Thrift,  Bachelors'  Buttons,  Primroses, 
and  London  Pride,  all  tending  to  weeds,  and  all 
growing  out  of  line :  to  avoid  this,  flower-beds  are 
often  edged  with  board,  which  soon  falls  to  decay. 
The  best  and  most  permanent  edging  I  have  ever  met 
with,  is  slate  set  lengthwise,  three  inches  under  and 
three  inches  over  the  level  of  the  alley  or  walk,  the 
edges  of  the  beds  rilled  in  the  interior  to  the  full 
height  of  the  slate.  I  know  an  edging  of  this  de- 
scription made  sixteen  years  ago,  which  is  still  in 
the  highest  perfection ;  at  first,  the  outside  of  the 
slate  was  painted  green,  which  gave  a  great  neat- 
ness to  the  garden ;  soon  after,  an  edging  of  Gen- 
tianella  was  planted  at  the  inside  of  the  slate  and 
close  to  it,  which  came  into  great  beauty,  and  hung 
over  the  outside,  forming  an  edging  at  top  of  three  or 
four  inches  wide,  requiring  very  little  attention,  and 
decorating  the  edges  of  the  beds  with  a  profusion  of 
its  large,  rich,  and  graceful  blue  flowers,  which,  when 
lined  by  a  single  row  of  yellow  crocus,  usher  in  the 
spring  in  the  most  vivid  colors.  A  chief  perfection 
of  this  edging  is,  that  it  is  permanent.  The  border 
bulbs,  such  as  Crocus,  Snowdrop,  Iris,  Colchicum, 
Gladiolus,  &e.,may  now  be  planted,  but  the  following 


JANUARY.  53 

month  is  more  to  be  relied  on  for  what  are  termed 
florists'  bulbs.  The  latter  kinds  should  be  taken  up 
and  replanted  every  year,  the  former  once  in  three 
or  four  years ;  the  latter  form  their  offsets  on  the 
sides  of  the  bulbs,  by  which  they  become  crowded, 
weakened,  and  indisposed  to  flower  richly  the  suc- 
ceeding year,  which  makes  it  necessary  to  take 
them  up  annually  and  prepare  them  for  replanting. 
Those  of  the  border  which  form  their  bulbs  either 
under  the  original  one,  as  in  the  bulbous-rooted  Iris 
and  Narcissus,  or  as  in  the  Crocus,  must  be  raised 
within  the  time  specified,  or  take  the  risk  in  the  first 
instance  of  striking  so  deep  as  to  be  weakened  and 
to  disappear  altogether,  or,  in  the  latter  case,  of 
throwing  up  their  bulbs  above  the  surface,  so  as  to 
be  destroyed  by  a  dry  season,  or  by  frost. 

In  every  case  the  great  principle  is  to  preserve 
the  bulbs  in  vigor,  and  free  from  injury — to  replant 
them  in  proper  time,  within  three  months  if  possible, 
and  not  to  take  them  up  till  the  leaves  are  decayed, 
as  the  sap,  on  the  formation  of  which  the  future 
bloom  depends,  must  first  be  produced  by  the  instru- 
mentality of  the  leaves,  and  stored  by  them  in  the 
bulbs,  for  the  support  and  production  of  the  embryo 
flower.  The  Tulips,  Ranunculuses,  and  Anemones, 
planted  in  November,  and  now  making  their  appear- 
ance, must  be  carefully  protected.  The  green-house 
will  require  the  same  attention  as  in  the  last  month, 
with  respect  to  the  exclusion  of  frost  and  damp, 
admission  of  dry  and  free  air,  and  very  moderate 
watering. 

As  the  Chrysanthemum  and  Camellia,  from  their 
intrinsic  merit  and  beauty,  will  ever  form  the  most 
striking  decorations  of  the  green-house  at  this  sea- 
son, and  remain  independent  of  the  caprice  and 
vicissitudes  of  fashion,  it  may  not  be  amiss,  at  this 


JANUARY 


leisure  moment,  to  point  out  some  of  the  peculiari- 
ties of  their  culture.  Of  the  Chrysanthemum,  we 
have  on  our  list  upwards  of  fifty  distinct  varieties 
at  present,  most  of  which  have  been  originally  intro- 
duced from  Japan  and  China,  and  chiefly  by  the 
London  Horticultural  Society,  every  attempt  to 
raise  them  from  seed  having  failed,  through  the  un- 
seasonable time  of  their  appearance,  until  lately  ; 
but  it  is  said  that  recently  some  indefatigable  gar- 
dener in  England  has  succeeded  in  effecting  it.  In 
China  it  is  a  flower  in  high  request,  and  the  Chinese 
pay  great  attention  to  its  culture,  vying  which  shall 
produce  the  largest,  and  making  it  an  ordinary  deco- 
ration of  the  table  at  their  entertainments.  They 
may  be  propagated  with  great  facility  by  separating 
the  rooted  suckers  from  the  old  stock,  in  the  months 
of  April  or  May,  putting  two  or  three  of  these  into 
penny  pots,  separating  them  afterwards  as  they  fill 
the  pots,  and  reserving  the  best,  if  there  be  a  redun- 
dancy, for  repotting  singly  in  the  same  sized  pot. 
When  the  plants  are  again  filled  with  roots,  they 
should  be  shifted  into  other  pots  about  eight  or  nine 
inches  diameter,  for  flowering,  taking  care,  should 
they  show  early  signs  of  spindling  up  with  single 
shoots,  to  pinch  them  into  bushes  :  on  each  shoot 
only  one  or  two  flowers  should  be  suffered  to  re- 
main, and  the  rest  should  be  trimmed  off,  to  give 
vigor  and  beauty  to  the  remainder.  The  Chrysan- 
themum being  a  voracious  plant,  requires  to  be  fed 
with  the  richest  soil,  and  liquid  manure  abundantly, 
to  bring  it  to  its  greatest  perfection.  Many  prefer 
increasing  this  by  planting  the  tops  as  cuttings,  in 
April  and  May,  which  renders  them  dwarfish,  and 
less  rambling,  and  where  that  is  desirable,  this 
method  answers  the  purpose  very  well.  When 
planted  against  warm  walls,  or  paling,  they  come 


JANUARY.  55 

to  still  greater  perfection,  and  exhibit  more  vivid 
colors  than  in  the  house  :  in  this  climate  they  need 
no  other  protection. 

The  Chrysanthemum,  without  some  such  shelter, 
rarely  exhibits  itself  to  advantage. 

The  Camellia,  a  native  of  the  same  climates,  has 
been  introduced  here,  with  much  trouble  and  expense 
incurred,  to  the  number  of  about  fifty  varieties  and 
species,  mostly  of  striking  beauty  of  color  and  sym- 
metry of  form,  exhibiting  every  shade  in  succession, 
from  deep  crimson  to  the  purest  white,  in  some  im- 
perceptibly blended,  in  others  strikingly  contrasted, 
and  set  in  a  foliage  of  glassy  brilliant  verdure,  natu- 
rally forming  a  light,  airy,  and  slender  pyramid,  in 
outline  an  unrivalled  object  of  beauty  from  October 
to  May.  Our  gardeners  have  now  succeeded  in 
raising  new  varieties  of  the  Camellia,  from  seed  in- 
dependent of  the  Chinese,  and  rivalling,  in  many 
instances,  their  most  perfect  specimens,  principally 
in  variegation ;  this  is  effected  by  intermixing  the 
farina  of  two  oppositely  colored  varieties ;  but  as 
this  operation  requires  a  combination  of  knowledge 
and  dexterity  rather  too  profound  for  my  fair  readers 
to  meddle  with,  I  leave  it  to  learned  professors,  and 
will  proceed  to  the  more  obvious  mode  of  cultivation 
and  increase. 

The  double  Camellia  is  generally  cultivated  by 
graftings  on  stocks  of  the  single,  which  are  procured 
by  planting  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots,  in  pure 
sand,  under  cup  glasses  ;  on  these,  when  grown  to 
a  sufficient  size,  are  inarched  the  finer  kinds  ;  some- 
times these  latter  are  also  struck  by  cuttings,  but 
their  progress  by  this  manner  is  generally  so  feeble, 
that  it  is  seldom  resorted  to.  To  grow  healthy 
Camellias,  you  must  procure  a  fresh,  sandy  soil, 
generally  of  a  redish  color,  to  be  mixed  with  about 


JANUARY. 

one-third  of  sandy  peat,  or  one-fourth  peat,  and  one- 
fourth  of  very  rotten  leaf  mould;  nothing  being 
more  injurious  to  them  than  over-potting,  they  should 
not  be  shifted  into  larger  pots,  until  the  projection 
of  the  roots  outside  the  pot  shows  evidently  that 
they  are  in  need  of  it.  When  growing,  the  Camellia 
requires  abundance  of  water,  but  when  dormant  in 
winter,  very  little,  though  it  should  not  be  suffered 
to  become  dry.  Few  plants  enjoy  the  shade  more  in 
summer,  or  better  bear  privation  of  sunshine,  though 
not  of  light :  and  even  that  in  winter,  or  when  their 
growth  is  perfected,  is  not  necessary  ;  when  grow- 
ing, a  slight  bottom  heat  promotes  their  vigor  in 
shooting.  By  drafting  them  from  their  winter  quar- 
ters successively  into  a  warm  temperature,  they 
may  be  forced  into  bloom  for  the  greatest  part  of 
the  year. 

The  Camellia,  in  mild  climates,  may  be  preserved 
alive  in  the  open  ground,  but  coming  into  bloom  in 
the  rigorous  season  of  the  year,  its  flowers  open 
but  imperfectly,  and  are  of  little  estimation :  in  such 
case  a  shady  or  eastern  aspect  is  best. 

Let  every  border  in  and  around  the  flower  garden 
be  kept  with  neatness,  and  if  any  remain  without 
having  been  dug,  this  operation  must  not  be  post- 
poned beyond  this  month. 


MONTHLY  CALENDAR. 


FEBRUARY. 


SOW 

HARDY  ANNUALS,  (see  JVfarc/?,)  if  the  weather  be  mild  and  open; 
but  if  not,  it  is  far  better  to  wait  patiently  until  it  becomes  so.* 

A  few  hardy  Annuals  may  be  sown  in  pots,  for  an  early  bloom, 
if  sheltered  under  a  warm  frame. 
Sow  tender  Annuals  in  hot-beds : — 

BALSAMS. 

AMARANTHS. 

TRICOLORS. 

COXCOMBS,  &c. 
AURICULA  seed  may  be  sown  now. 


PLANT 

ANEMONES. 

RANUNCULUS. 
Remove  CARNATION  layers. 
Put  DAHLIAS  into  the  hot-bed. 

Make  a  final  planting  of  BULBOUS  ROOTS  mentioned  in  the  month 
of  November. 

Plant  also  the  BULBOUS  IRIS. 

*  These  remarks  will  not  apply  in  this  country,  except  to  the  Southern, 
and  perhaps  to  some  of  the  Middle  States. — ED.  AM.  ED. 


OBSERVATIONS 

FOR 

FEBRUARY. 


Should  the  weather  be  open  and  mild,  the  flower 
garden  will  begin  within  this  month  to  wear  a  more 
busy  aspect. 

It  is  now  the  safest  season  to  put  down  all  the 
bulbs  which  have  not  been  planted  in  November, 
and  whose  blossoms  will  succeed  those  of  the  former 
planting,  with  very  little  interruption:  if  this  be 
postponed,  the  flowers  will  appear  feeble  and  much 
less  showy. 

I  should  not,  however,  urge  the  sowing  of  even 
hardy  annuals,  (though  it  is  often  done  at  this  time,) 
unless  under  very  favorable  circumstances  of  aspect 
and  weather  ;  but  the  trouble  is  not  much,  nor  is  the 
cost  alarming  ;  and  if  they  happen  to  succeed,  you 
will  be  repaid  by  their  earlier  blossoms.  Sow  the 
seed  on  patches,  with  a  mixture  of  ashes,  (wood  ashes 
to  be  preferred,)  on  a  leaf  compost ;  the  ashes  are 
a  strong  stimulant,  and  absorbent  of  atmospheric 
moisture. 

Some  annuals,  as  Mignonette  and  Ten  Week 
Stock,*  may  be  brought  forward  by  a  mild  heat.  But 
as  the  sowing  of  annuals  will  probably  be  deferred 

*  The  Double  Ten  Week  Stock,  potted  in  autumn,  will  now  be 
a  striking  ornament  to  the  green-house  or  drawing-room. 


€0  FEBRUARY. 

to  the  next  month,  I  shall  there  specify  the  different 
kinds  that  are  recommended.  Those  layers  of  Car- 
nations which  were  unfit  for  removal  in  autumn, 
should  now  be  planted  with  care  in  well-prepared 
beds  of  compost,  in  which  a  considerable  portion  of 
sand  should  always  be  a  component  part,  and  a  slight 
portion  of  powdered  lime  may  be  mixed  with  it — 
calcareous  soil  being  especially  grateful  to  the  Di- 
anthus  tribe. 

These  will  blossom  a  little  later  than  those  taken 
off  in  September  or  October,  and  thus  preserve  an 
agreeable  succession. 

It  is  of  the  utmost  consequence  that  the  beds  in 
which  they  are  placed  should  be  so  constituted  as 
to  be  not  only  rich,  but  loose  and  friable.  My  friend, 
who  is  a  florist,  tells  me,  that  on  once  inquiring  from  a 
most  charming  lady,  how  a  superior  growth  of  Carna- 
tions was  produced  in  her  garden,  which  exhibited 
a  brilliant  and  lovely  display,  was  answered  by  her 
putting  her  foot  (but  not  in  the  proverbial  way,  as 
will  appear,)  between  two  rows  of  Carnations,  and 
sinking  it  with  great  facility  above  the  instep: — 
"  This,"  said  she,  "  is  the  great  secret  in  the  culti- 
vation of  this  splendid  flower — nothing  is  to  be  done 
but  by  good  loose  compost,  and  perfect  pulveriza- 
tion." Florists  keep  their  fine  Carnations  in  pots, 
and  their  hardy  ones  in  beds.  I  am  told  by  excel- 
lent authority,  that,  for  many  reasons,  the  most 
judicious  treatment  is  to  keep  them  in  pots. 

Where  tanners'  bark,  the  most  cleanly,  durable, 
and  least  troublesome  of  materials,  is  used  for  hot- 
beds, let  it  be  turned  early  this  month,  as  it  requires 
considerable  time  to  ferment. 

Give  Dahlias  a  gentle  heat  in  the  hot-bed,  ta 
break  the  buds,  each  of  which,  planted  with  a  por- 
tion of  the  root,  will  become  a  plant. 


FEBRUARY*  61 

I'. 

Sow  Dahlia  seed  now,  and  it  will  flower  through 
the  end  of  the  summer. 

The  tenderest  annuals  may  now  be  sown  in  the 
hot-bed,  to  be  potted  in  due  time.  I  shall  name  a 
few — Amaranthus,  Browallias,  Balsams,  Coxcombs, 
Tricolors,  Sensitive,  and  Ice  plants.  These,  if  care- 
fully treated,  become  a  great  ornament  to  the  green- 
house or  flower-stand ;  succeeding,  also,  in  open 
ground,  if  previously  nursed  to  maturity  in  frames. 
In  this  country  the  very  tender  annuals  seldom  ar- 
rive at  any  degree  of  perfection,  if  not  kept  under 
glass. 

Plant  now  the  main  crop  of  Anemones  and  Ra- 
nunculuses, in  ground  prepared  as  before  directed ; 
for  though  they  will  neither  flower  so  vigorously, 
nor  so  early,  (by  about  a  fortnight,)  as  if  they  had 
been  planted  in  November,  there  will  be  less  risk  of 
losing  them. 

In  planting  the  roots  of  the  bulbous  Iris,  (fleur  de 
luce)  a  selection  must  first  be  made  from  the  species, 
which  are  numerous.  Miller  gives  a  catalogue  of 
sixty-one  kinds,  but  florists  cultivate  only  nine  or 
ten  of  the  bulbous  rooted  sorts,  and  of  these  there 
are  but  three  hardy  kinds  in  estimation,  viz. : — the 
English,  Spanish,  and  Persian. 

"  Amidst  its  waving  swords,  in  flaming  gold, 
The  Iris  towers." 

This  motto  is  descriptive  of  the  English  yellow 
or  field  Iris,  which  though  the  least  attractive,  has 
its  merits  and  peculiarities.  Its  seeds  are  said  to  be 
a  substitute  for  coffee,  and  much  resembling  that 
berry  in  flavor ;  its  roots  are  said  to  give  a  nutgall 
dye  to  ink.  The  Persian  should  be  planted  in 
autumn,  (else  it  will  rot,)  and  it  will  flower  in  this 
month.  Its  flowers  are  not  only  beautiful,  being  of 


4%  FEBRUARY. 

a  delicate  blue  or  violet  color,  but  also  extremely 
sweet-scented.  This  low-growing  flower  may  be 
cultivated  in  glasses  or  flower-pots,  to  the  ornament 
and  perfume  of  the  room,  early  in  March.  If  planted 
in  earth  it  need  not  be  removed  for  three  years ; 
whereas  the  other  sorts  should  be  raised  and  re- 
planted every  year  or  two.  In  order  to  continue 
the  flower  in  perfection,  the  offsets  should  be  stripped 
off  carefully  without  removing  the  bulb.  It  may  be 
propagated  by  seed  sown  in  August,  in  rows  three 
inches  apart,  but  it  will  not  arrive  at  perfection  for 
three  years.  The  bulbs  should  be  raised  in  August 
and  replanted  in  September.  The  Spanish  has  many 
beautiful  varieties,  which  may  be  planted  either  now 
or  in  autumn.  The  English  is  superior,  both  in  size 
and  beauty,  and  is  equally  varied. 

There  are  two  varieties  of  the  tuberous  rooted 
Iris,  which  deserve  especial  notice.  The  Choice- 
donian,  whose  flower  is  large  and  magnificent — its 
petals  on  a  great  scale,  but  delicate  in  texture — 
purple  or  black,  striped  with  white  ;  the  white 
Florentine,  whose  petals  are  snow-white  and  of  the 
delicacy  of  silver  paper,  and  whose  root  has  the 
odor  of  the  violet.  But  the  Persian  Iris  is  consid- 
ered the  best  of  all  these  foreign  ones  ;  its  flowers 
are  not  only  beautiful,  of  a  delicate  blue  or  violet 
color,  but  also  extremely  sweet-scented. 

A  new  kind,  fibrous  rooted,  called  the  Iris  tenax, 
has  been  lately  discovered.  Its  character  is  thus 
given  by  Mr.  Douglas,  who  sent  it  from  the  North 
West  coast  of  America  to  the  London  Horticultural 
Society.  "  Its  fibres  were  woven  by  the  natives 
into  fishing  nets,  clothing,  &c.;  a  sixteen  thread 
cord  of  it  was  of  such  strength  and  tenacity,  as  to 
hold  in  its  noose,  when  snared,  the  great  deer  of 
California,  one  of  the  most  powerful  animals  of  its 


FEBRUARY.  63 

tribe."  Professor  Lindley,  who  sent  it  to  my  scien- 
tific friend,  recommends  it  to  be  planted,  for  manu- 
facturing purposes,  on  dry  poor  land — its  natural 
soil — as  far  more  likely  to  be  profitable  in  this  cli- 
mate than  New-Zealand  flax.  The  flower  is  beau- 
tiful. 


GREEN-HOUSE. 

Attend  to  the  Green-house  as  directed  in  the  pre- 
ceding month,  giving  as  much  air  as  possible,  if  the 
weather  becomes  mild  ;  or  more  precisely,  except 
the  thermometer  be  so  low  as  32°,  or  a  harsh  wind 
prevails ;  in  such  case  the  external  air  must  be  ex- 
cluded. 

None  of  you,  my  dear  ladies,  are  comfortable  un- 
der exposure  to  such  cold  temperature  ;  you  should, 
therefore,  sympathize  with  the  inmates  of  the  green- 
house, and  regulate  their  comforts  accordingly  with 
your  own  feelings*  in  this  ungenial  season. 


GARDEN  FLOWERS  IN  BLOSSOM. 

Single  Anemones,  which,  if  in  patches,  have  a 
charming  effect ;  early  white  and  blue  Hyacinths, 
Pansies,  single  Wall  Flowers,  fragrant  Coltsfoot, 
Christmas  Roses,  Winter  Aconite,  Dwarf  Snow- 
drop, Crocus,  Neapolitan  Violets,  Hepaticas,  Peri- 
winkles. 

*  The  thermometer,  however,  is  less  likely  to  be  a  fallacious  cri- 
terion. 


€4  FEBRUAR  Y 


GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS  IN  BLOSSOM. 

Allspice  (Chimonanthus  fragrans)  delightful!)  fra- 
grant ;  Corrsea  Speciosa,  Oxalis,  Versicolar,  Heaths, 
and  some  Camellias. 


SOME  OF  THE  SHRUBS  IN  BLOSSOM. 

Mezereon,  Erica,  Herbacea,  Daphne  Collina,  and 
Neapolitana,  Corchorus  Japonicus,  Cydonia,  Japo- 
nica,  and  the  Magnolia  Conspicua,  a  very  attractive 
shrub,  (a  native  of  China,)  the  flowers  of  which  ap- 
pear before  the  leaves. 


EVERGREENS. 

Plant  out  Evergreens  and  shrubs  of  all  kinds. 
Roses  particularly,  as  they  break  early  ;  plant  cut- 
tings in  sheltered  situations  and  rich  light  soil ;  and 
you  may  procure  stocks  of  the  common  wild  hedge 
rose  for  standards  on  which  to  bud  the  garden  sorts. 

Separate  the  roots  of  herbaceous  plants.  Plant 
Box  for  edging,  if  you  prefer  it  to  slate,  and  have 
not  previously  planted  it  in  September,  which  is  a 
better  season.  Indeed  rooted  slips  may  be  put  down 
in  any  moist  season. 


ROUTINE  WORK. 

Keep  your  flower-knots  free  from  weeds,  for  the 
want  of  neatness  will  render  the  natural  aspect  of 


FEBRUARY.  65 

the  garden,  at  this  severe  season,  still  more  cheer- 
less. Whenever  the  weather  permits,  use  the  hoe, 
rake  and  dress  up  the  beds,  and  if  any  of  them 
remain  undressed  from  preceding  months,  let  this 
work  be  no  longer  deferred. 


PRUNING. 

Prune  your  shrubs,  taking  care  to  cut  away  all 
dead  wood,  and  to  dig  about  the  roots,  removing 
all  suckers,  both  for  the  health  of  the  shrub  and  the 
appearance  of  the  pleasure  ground. 


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MONTHLY  CALENDAR. 

MARCH. 

SOW 

Tender  Annuals,  if  omitted  in  the  last  month,  with  a  second 
sowing  of  BALSAMS  on  a  good  heat,  TRICOLORS  on  a  mild  heat. 

MARTGOLDS,  (ENOTHERA,  MADIA,  JACOBIA,  NOLAN  A,  COREOPSIS, 
SCHIZANTHUS,  TRACHYMENE,  ZlNNIA,  and  CONVOLVULUS  MAJOR. 

In  the  open  ground,  if  the  weather  be  fine,  sow  at  the  end  of  the 
month  (but  better  deferred  till  April,  if  cold  and  wet  prevail,)  the 
following  hardy  annuals,  viz.,  SWEET  PEA,  LUPINES,  LARKSPUR, 
MIGNONETTE,  ANNUAL  STOCKS,  FLOS  ADONIS,  LOVE  LIES  BLEED- 
ING, PRINCES'  FEATHER,  NIGELLA,  CONVOLVULUS  MINOR,  VENUS'S 
LOOKING-GLASS,  POPPIES,  CATCHFLT,MALOPE,LAVATERA,  CANDY 
TUFT,  SUNFLOWER,  CHRYSANTHEMUM,  XERANTHEMUM,  WINGED 
PEA,  TANGIER  PEA,  HAWKWEED. 


PLANT 

ANEMONES,  where  omitted  last  month,  RANUNCULUSES,  POLY- 
ANTHUSES, LYCHNIS,  ROCKETS,  PRIMROSES,  GENTIANELLA,  GILLIA, 
VIOLETS,  and  LILY  OF  THE  VALLEY,  FRENCH  and  AFRICAN  HONEY- 
SUCKLES, PINKS,  SWEET  WILLIAM,  CAMPANULAS,  COLUMBINES, 
and  other  fibrous-rooted  plants. 

Part  and  pot  LOBELIA  FULGENS  in  rich  soil,  and  as  it  increases 
in  size,  gradually  shift  it  to  larger  pots. 

Water  it  regularly,  and  its  splendid  flowers  will  repay  the  care. 


OBSERVATIONS 


MARCH. 


This  month  opens  to  us  a  wide  field  for  floral 
arrangements.  Annuals,  Biennials,  and  Perennials, 
present  their  names  in  a  crowded  list ;  good  taste, 
therefore,  will  be  evinced  by  a  judicious  selection 
from  them. 

Of  the  indefinite  varieties  that  deck  the  surface 
of  the  earth,  who  will  presume  to  hold  any  in  con- 
tempt ?  They  are  given  by  the  bounty  of  Provi- 
dence, for  purposes  that  human  skill  has  not  yet 
been  fully  able  to  apply.  Yet,  the  selection  rests 
with  us ;  and  since  few  are  enabled  to  indulge  in 
such  extensive  pleasure  grounds  as  to  embrace  the 
whole,  or  even  a  great  proportion,  of  the  variety 
offered,  they  must  adapt  their  choice  to  the  extent 
and  circumstances  of  their  gardens.  Even  the 
handsomest  flowers  should  be  restrained  within  due 
bounds,  for  if  permitted  to  spread,  or  overgrow  the 
beds  or  borders  in  crowded  confusion,  they  give  a 
wild  and  offensive  appearance  to  the  whole ;  but 
where  the  low-growing  ones '  are  thinned  out,  and 
the  higher  ones  staked  and  confined  to  moderate 
limits,  many  of  them,  beautiful  in  themselves,  be- 
come an  ornament  instead  of  an  evidence  of  bad 
taste  and  slovenly  practice. 


70  MARCH. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month  is  the  most  desirable 
period  for  sowing  Annuals,  whether  tender  or  hardy ; 
and  where  the  sowing  of  them  has  not  already  been 
effected,  I  would  now  recommend  energy  and  promp- 
titude in  preparing  either  hot-beds  or  flower  patches, 
according  to  the  nature  of  the  seeds.  If  sown  in 
patches,  garden  pots  may  be  turned  over  them  with 
advantage  ;  for  they  preserve  the  seeds  moist,  and 
in  an  equal  temperature,  and  protect  them  from 
the  ravages  of  vermin.  When  the  seeds  are  over 
ground,  however,  the  pots  must  be  carefully  taken 
off  by  day,  until  the  advancing  mildness  of  the  sea- 
son permits  their  total  removal. 

All  the  tender  hot-bed  Annuals  should  be  raised 
in  an  atmosphere  of  an  elevated  temperature,  and 
in  rich  compost,  and  successively  transplanted  into 
pots,  barely  a  size  larger,  (a  natural  observance,) 
until  they  arrive  at  their  full  growth.  Drawing 
frames,  such  as  can  be  raised  as  the  plants  require 
it,  (by  adding  an  additional  bottom  part,)  should 
then  be  used.  Balsams  require  a  great  deal  of 
water. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  GARDEN. 

There  is  now  no  time  to  be  lost  in  garden  opera- 
tions, else  every  thing  will  go  wrong  during  the  suc- 
ceeding seasons.  You  must  prepare  hot-beds  in  the 
first  instance,  and  these  should  be  made  as  follows. 


METHOD  OF  MAKING  A  HOT-BED. 

Throw  the  dung  into  a  heap  until  the  fermenta- 
tive process  shall  have  been  completed ;  then  dis- 


MARCH.  71 

pose  it  according  to  the  required  size  and  shape  of 
your  bed,  laying  the  longest  litter  at  bottom,  and 
finishing  with  the  shortest,  taking  care  to  beat  it 
down  firmly  and  well  with  the  back  of  the  fork  as 
you  proceed  in  the  work,  and  trimming  the  sides 
neatly.  It  is  a  good  precaution  to  place  on  the  top 
of  the  whole  a  layer  of  moss,  turf-mould,  or  any 
other  light  cool  substance,  to  keep  down  the  acrid 
vapor  that  may  arise  and  injure  your  plants,  but 
which,  if  properly  restrained  by  this  covering,  will 
serve  to  render  it  a  rich  source  of  nourishment  for 
any  roots  that  may  reach  it. 


HOW  TO  SOW  FLOWER-SEEDS  IN  HOT-BEDS. 

Sow  the  seeds  either  on  the  surface,  (each  kind 
by  itself,  covering  them  according  to  their  size,  from 
one-fourth  of  an  inch  to  an  inch,)  or  in  very  shallow 
drills,  drawn  with  the  finger,  or  a  bit  of  stick,  or  the 
point  of  a  poker, — or  any  thing  else  you  like  better 
— taking  care  to  cover  them.  It  is  still  better  to 
sow  in  pots  plunged  into  the  hot-bed,  as  they  can 
be  easily  removed  to  the  open  beds  afterwards. 

Melon  or  Cucumber  hot-beds  will  be  convenient 
for  receiving  pots,  which  can  be  taken  out  before 
the  Melons  or  Cucumbers  require  the  space  thus 
occupied. 

Make  a  slight  hot-bed  for  the  half-hardy  Annuals; 
for  the  covering  of  which,  hand-glasses,  or  frames 
covered  with  oiled  paper,  or  hooped  mats,  will  an- 
swer very  well ;  but  for  the  tender,  a  hot-bed  frame 
must  be  supplied. 


72  MARCH. 


HARDY  ANNUALS  IN  BORDERS. 

At  the  latter  end  of  the  month  sow  hardy  Annuals 
in  borders  \u  patches,  which  Loudon  thus  defines — 
"  circular  forms,  six  or  eight  inches  in  diameter." 
In  these  patches  sow  either  over  the  whole  space, 
stirred  up,  raked  and  marked  out,  or  in  the  circum- 
ference drilled ;  and  to  avoid  any  subsequent  con- 
fusion relative  to  the  growing  plants,  let  each  plant 
have  a  little  label  with  the  name  of  the  flower  in- 
scribed upon  it ;  and  this  is  easily  effected : — Take 
a  lath,  cut  it  into  six-inch  lengths,  sharpen  one  end 
to  a  point,  and  plane  or  otherwise  smooth  the  other 
end;  rub  on  some  white  paint  with  flannel,  then 
with  a  black  lead  pencil  write  the  name  of  the  plant 
while  the  paint  is  wet. 


PERENNIALS. 

Sow  also  Perennials,  half  an  inch  or  an  inch  deep, 
according  to  their  size,  to  be  pricked  out  in  May, 
and  transplanted  to  remain,  in  October. 


AURICULAS. 

As  frost  or  heavy  rain  would  greatly  injure  these, 
(the  buds  being  about  to  appear,)  they  must  be  kept 
under  cover. 


MARCH.  73 

EARLY  TULIPS 

Will  now  exhibit  their  flowers,  and  should  be 
guarded  from  high  winds  by  any  of  the  contrivances 
before  mentioned,  or  by  a  close-meshed  net  drawn 
tightly  over  hoops,  and  raised  when  the  flowers  are 
incommoded  by  it. 


DAHLIAS. 

Prick  out  (two  inches  apart)  into  other  pots,  the 
Dahlias  sown  in  February,  as  soon  as  they  have 
thrown  out  the  rough  leaf,  and  keep  them  in  a  mild 
heat,  occasionally  supplying  plenty  of  fresh  air. 

If  the  buds  of  Dahlias  brought  into  head  in  the 
last  month  have  now  pushed,  pot  them  separately, 
taking  care  to  preserve  to  each  a  root,  or  part  of 
one. 

Sow  seed  also  in  a  hot-bed  for  flowering  this 
season. 


RANUNCULUSES  AND  ANEMONES. 

When  the  leaves  of  these  plants  have  got  fully 
over  ground,  the  rows  should  be  carefully  gone  over 
to  press  the  earth  to  their  base,  and  prevent  the  pen- 
etrating of  drying  winds  ;  and  when  the  earth  is 
stirred,  it  should  be  done  with  extreme  tenderness, 
lest  parching  winds  should  reach  the  roots  in  conse- 
quence. A  thin  layer  of  very  rotten  dung,  laid  on 
the  surface  between  the  rows,  will  be  of  material 
service  ;  and  should  harsh  winds  or  hot  suns  prevail, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  shade  the  leaves,  for  if  they 
be  injured,  the  bloom  will  be  checked. 


74  MARCH. 


CARNATIONS. 

Apply  fresh  earth  to  the  Carnations  which  were 
planted  out  the  preceding  autumn,  and  remove  from 
them  all  decayed  leaves.  Indeed,  this  care  should 
now  be  taken  with  all  plants  in  boxes  or  pots,  adding 
fresh  earth,  (without  going  so  deep  as  to  disturb  or 
injure  the  roots,)  for  this  tends  greatly  to  assist  the 
flowering. 

The  fine  stage  Carnation  layers  that  you  have  pre- 
served under  frames  during  the  winter,  should  now 
be  removed  into  flowering  pots,  (the  compost  to  be 
as  before  directed,)  about  nine  or  ten  inches  diam- 
eter, a  pair  in  each,  as  is  generally  practised  by  flo- 
rists, to  secure  fine  flowers,  and  let  the  bottom  be 
well  drained  by  means  of  broken  tiles,  pots,  or  oyster 
shells ;  place  them  in  a  sheltered  situation  until  they 
become  established,  from  which  time,  until  the  sea- 
son of  flowering,  they  should  be  in  an  airy  and  open 
situation,  lest  they  be  weakly  and  drawn. 


CAMPANULAS. 

These  are  a  numerous  family,  and  many  of  them 
are  highly  ornamental ;  for  example,  the  Speciosa 
and  Glomerate  species ;  but  the  Campanula  pyra- 
midalis  demands  an  especial  notice. 

Of  this  there  are  two  varieties,  the  blue  and  white, 
both  best  propagated  by  seed,  but  generally  by  roots, 
which  when  divided  into  cuttings  of  three  or  four 
inches,  and  planted  in  pots,  with  the  head  raised 
above  the  surface,  readily  become  plants,  which, 
when  of  sufficient  strength,  should  be  shifted  sue- 


MARCH.  75 

cessively  into  larger  pots  until  they  flower.  They 
require  rich  soil.  They  are  particularly  suited  to 
positions  in  halls  or  windows,  continuing  to  blossom 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  season. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

Part  the  suckers,  giving  each  the  comfort  of  a 
penny  pot ;  or  plant  cuttings,  which  though  not  so 
forward  as  the  others,  will  make  handsomer  plants. 
Many  prefer  laying  them  from  the  old  growth  in 
summer  in  small  pots,  cutting  them  off  and  treating 
them  as  the  others.  The  first  method  is  the  least 
troublesome,  the  others  produce  neater  plants. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  HOT-BEDS. 

Should  the  heat  have  diminished,  line  the  hot-beds 
in  which  you  have  sown  your  tender  Annuals  last 
month,  and  prick  these  out  (two  inches  apart)  from 
the  seedling  pots,  into  others  previously  filled  with 
bright  rich  earth,  and  plunged  into  the  hot-bed,  in 
order  to  warm  the  earth  for  their  reception. 

This  warming-pan  operation  should  be  performed 
the  day  preceding  that  on  which  the  plants  are  to 
be  fresh  potted. 

Water  them  gently  and  moderately,  and  shade  the 
glass  over  them  until  they  shall  have  struck  root, 
and  afterwards  keep  the  earth  moderately  moist,  as 
nothing  is  more  injurious  than  drenching  the  plants 
with  water. 

Remember  also  to  admit  as  much  air  as  the  state 
of  the  weather  will  permit. 


"76  MARCH. 


LAYERING  AND  OTHERWISE  PROPAGATING. 

Lay  the  Paeonia  montana  and  the  Chinese  Pseony 
as  soon  as  its  buds  begin  to  swell,  and  take  off  rooted 
offsets. 

Propagate  Myrtles,  Geraniums,  &c.  by  cuttings, 
(to  be  put  into  a  hot-bed,  under  glass,)  and  propa- 
gate by  grafting,  Thorns,  Acacias,  Roses,  Althaea 
frutex,  &c.  Prune  all  decaying  Geraniums  and 
clear  off  the  dead  leaves.  Remove  Rose  trees, 
which,  if  properly  treated,  will  flower  the  same  year. 

Green-house  plants  are  best  propagated  by  plant- 
ing the  young  shoots  of  the  same  year,  in  May  or 
June,  and  April  or  May  are  the  best  months  for  shift- 
ing and  dressing  them. 


GARDEN  FLOWERS  IN  BLOSSOM. 

These  are  Crocus,  Snowdrops,  several  species  of 
Narcissus,  Daffodils,  Iris,  early  Tulips,  Crown  Im- 
perials, Fritillary,  Dogs-tooth  Violet,  Violets,  Hya- 
cinths, Polyanthus,  Primroses,  and  Wallflowers. 

By  the  way — when  noticing  the  Crocus^  page  28, 
I  omitted  to  state — for  the  benefit  of  all  whom  it  may 
concern — that  a  love  affair  was  connected  with  a 
particular  species  of  this  flower,  the  Saffron  Crocus. 
This  is  called  after  a  poor  lad  of  the  name  of  Crocus, 
who  was  so  desperately  enamoured,  (and  I  believe 
unavailingly,)  of  Miss  Smilax,  that  he  lost  his  natu- 
ral color,  which  after  passing  through  the  stage  of 
extreme  paleness,  became  of  that  interesting  bilious 
hue,  which  is  expressed  by  the  term  yellow,  a  color 


MARCH.  77 

which,  as  far  as  his  descendants  are  concerned,  may 
be  seen  in  its  purest  tint  at  Cheltenham. 


PRINCIPAL  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS  IN 
FLOWER. 

Acacias,  many  sorts ;  Ericas,  a  great  variety ; 
Camellia,  Hovea,  Boronia,  Diasma,  Kennedia,  Spring 
Cyclamens,  Chorizema,  Epacris,  Polygala,  Azalea, 
(of  various  colors,)  and  Pimelea,  which  are  among 
the  most  ornamental. 


PRINCIPAL  SHRUBS  IN  FLOWER. 

Almond,  dwarf  and  common  Cornelian  Cherry, 
some  Heaths,*  Daphnes,  Virginian  Cherry  Plum. 


ROUTINE  WORK. 
Dress  up  borders,  and  roll  your  gravel  walks. 

*  The  Mediterranean  Heath  has  been  but  the  other  day  discov- 
ered in  the  west  of  Ireland,  by  Mr.  Mackay,  a  Scotchman  j  BO  much 
has  Botany  been  neglected  by  my  countrymen. 


78 


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MONTHLY  CALENDAR. 


APRIL. 


SOW 

The  more  delicate  Annuals  enumerated  last  month;  the  rare 
CAPE  BULBS  may  be  added  to  the  number. 

Sow  Perennials,  viz.  COLUMBINE,  SWEET  WILLIAM,  PINKS,  CAR- 
NATIONS, HOLLYHOCKS,  POLYANTHUS,  COWSLIP,  PERENNIAL  LARK- 
SPUR, BUGLOS,  ANCHUSA,  ESCHALTZIA  CALIFORNICA,  CENOTHERAS, 
PENSTEMON,  COMMELINA,  MARVEL  OP  PERU,  &c.  &c. 


PLANT 

EVERGREENS. 

Propagate  LAVENDER  and  Box  by  slips. 

Plant  Cuttings  of  Evergreen  Shrubs  in  the  Nursery. 

Graft  or  bud  ROSES. 

Graft  the  rare  sorts  of  AMERICAN  GREEN  OAK. 

Propagate  JASSMINES  by  cuttings. 

Inarch  EXOTICS,  &c. 


OBSERVATIONS 

FOR 

APRIL. 


In  this  month  we  have  frequently  very  charming 
days,  doubly  so  after  the  severe  season  which  has 
passed.  Now  there  is  peculiar  pleasure  in  dressing 
up  flower-knots,  borders,  and  shrubberies,  previously 
to  their  exhibition  of  beauties. 


ANNUALS. 

Some  of  those  with  the  hard  botanical  names 
{see  list  in  March.)  are  new  comers,  and  though 
probably  as  hardy  as  many  of  our  old  Annuals,  it 
will  be  safer  to  sow  a  little  of  each  sort  in  moderate 
hot-beds,  and  to  treat  them  in  every  respect  as  the 
French  and  African  Marygolds. 

You  may  now  safely  sow  those  which  do  not 
require  hot-beds,  such  as  Sweet  Pea,  Lupines,  Con- 
volvulus Minor,  Nasturtiums,  Ten  Week  and  Rus- 
sian Stocks,  Poppies,  Larkspur,  &c.  &c.  (see  last 
month's  Calendar,)  and  also  hardy  Perennials,  viz. 
Sweet  William,  Columbine,  Hollyhocks,  Pinks,  Car- 
nations, Auriculas,  Polyanthuses,  Cowslips,  Peren- 
nial Larkspur,  Escholtzia  californica,  CEnotheras, 
Penstemon,  Commelina,  Marvel  of  Peru,  &c. 


APRIL. 

TENDER  ANNUALS. 
Transplant  tender  Annuals  in  hot-beds. 

AURICULA. 

"Arrayed  she  comes  in  a  splendid  variety  of  amiable  forms,  with 
an  eye  of  chrystal,  and  garments  of  the  most  glossy  satin,  exhaling 
perfume  and  powdered  with  silver." 

Water  your  Auricula  seedling  pots,  and  if  there 
be  hot  sun,  shade  them,  else  they  will  be  destroyed. 

Auriculas  are  now  beginning  to  exhibit  their 
flowers  ;  they  must  therefore  be  guarded  from  wet, 
else  the  farina,  which  constitutes  their  great  beauty, 
will  be  washed  off;  but  give  them  all  the  air  that  is 
consistent  with  the  safety  of  the  flower,  and  expose 
them  only  to  the  morning  sun. 

They  should  now  be  brought  to  their  flowering 
stage,  with  an  easterly  aspect,  the  shelves  of  it  ele- 
vated about  three  feet  above  the  ground,  and  about 
six  inches  over  each  other.  This  stage  should  be 
roofed  with  glass,  and  have  sliding  glasses  upright 
in  front,  to  preserve  and  show  them  to  the  greatest 
advantage. 

When  the  flowering  is  over,  shift  or  dress  the 
plants  as  occasion  may  require.  Those  intended  for 
bloom  in  the  ensuing  year  should  be  shifted  into 
pots,  seven  inches  deep,  six  wide  at  top,  and  four 
at  bottom. 

For  flowering  plants,  preserve  the  balls  entire, 
removing  as  much  of  the  attached  earth  as  can  be 
done  without  injury  to  the  root,  and  take  care  to 
give  effectual  drainage  by  putting  loose  materials 
in  the  bottom  of  the  pots,  which  should  be  placed 


APRIL.  83 

on  coal  ashes  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  worms 
from  the  bottom. 

When  Auricula  plants  require  water,  it  should  be 
supplied  in  the  early  part  of  the  day  at  this  season, 
that  the  plant  may  fully  imbibe  the  moisture  ;  but 
do  not  water  the  centre  of  the  plant,  lest  the  stem 
be  injured. 


CRITERIA  OF  A  GOOD  AURICULA. 

Stem  long  and  erect;  peduncles  strong;  tube 
one-sixth  part  of  stem  in  diameter ;  eye,  one-half, 
and  the  exterior,  with  its  margin,  one-third.  The 
flower-leaves  or  pips,  should  be  as  nearly  as  possible 
round  at  the  edge,  the  anthers  large,  and  should  fill 
the  tube  well. 

The  eye  or  interior  circle  round  and  very  white ; 
the  exterior  with  its  ground  color  rich  and  uniform, 
distinct  at  the  eye  ;  its  green  edge  or  margin  in 
equal  proportion  with  the  ground  color. 

Mark  off  such  flowers,  when  in  full  blossom,  as 
you  intend  to  save  seed  from,  and  remove  the  pots 
containing  them  to  such  an  aspect  as  will  afford 
them  the  sun  until  mid-day,  for  ripening,  which  will 
be  in  June. 


COMPOST  FOR  AURICULAS. 

One-third  of  rotten  cow-dung  reduced  to  earth, 
one-third  of  very  rotten  sod-mould,  one-sixth  of  rot- 
ten leaves  or  bog-mould,  and  one-sixth  of  fine  clear 
river  or  pit  sand  ;  let  the  whole  be  frequently  turned 
and  broken,  for  at  least  twelve  months  before  it  is 
used,  and  kept  in  an  airy  situation. 


84 


APRIL. 


Propagate  Auriculas  by  slips :  these  will  readily 
strike  root  in  pots  kept  in  the  shade,  or  in  the  open 
air.  In  propagating  by  slips,  the  species  will  be 
accurately  continued  ;  this  will  not  be  the  case  from 
seed,  which  produces  varieties. 


POLYANTHUS. 

"And  Polyanthus  of  unnumbered  dyes." 

The  Polyanthus  is  now  seen  in  its  highest  per- 
fection. It  has  been  so  highly  improved  as  to  be  a 
stage  flower,  and  of  course  kept  in  pots. 

Its  proportions  are  nearly  those  of  the  Auricula, 
but  it  should  have  a  more  circular -outline  ;  it  ought 
to  be  flat,  the  ground  a  dark  rich  crimson  or  scarlet 
velvet ;  its  edge  a  bright  gold  lace  distinctly  striped 
down  to  the  eye,  which  should  be  of  a  bright  and 
clear  yellow. 

Altogether  a  perfect  Polyanthus  possesses  more 
elegance  of  form  and  richness  (without  so  much 
showiness)  of  color  than  the  Auricula.  It  is  a 
hardier  flower,  and  its  culture  also  is  easier. 

Keep  the  offsets  in  beds,  to  be  potted  next  month, 
for  flowering  in  the  ensuing  year. 


COMPOST  FOR  THE   POLYANTHUS. 

I  recommend  two-thirds  of  rotton  sod-mould,  and 
one-third  of  rotten  cow-dung. 

You  may  now  plant  out  Polyanthuses,  and  prop- 
agate them  by  slips,  if  not  already  done. 


APRIL.  85 


HOT-BEDS. 

Line  the  old,  or  prepare  fresh  hot-beds  for  receiv- 
ing the  tender  Annuals  sown  in  either  of  the  two 
last  months. 

Plant  the  Annuals  out  from  the  seeding  bed,  three 
or  four  inches  asunder,  which  will  be  sufficient 
growing  space  for  a  month  to  come,  when  they 
should  be  again  thinned  out  to  other  beds. 

Take  up  and  treat  the  plants  in  the  fresh  hot-beds 
as  already  directed.  The  seeds  which  were  early 
sown  last  month,  will  be  ready  for  pricking  out  now. 
If  the  sowing  has  not  yet  taken  place,  there  is  still 
time  for  it. 


HALF-HARDY  ANNUALS. 

Sow  in  moderate  hot-beds  some  of  the  half-hardy 
Annuals,  viz.  China  Asters,  India  Pinks,  Marygolds, 
(French  and  African,)  common  Balsams,  Chrysan- 
themums, Amaranthus,  &c.  Beds,  such  as  are  made 
for  gherkins,  and  hooped  over  for  occasional  shelter, 
will  answer  well  at  this  advanced  season,  if  frames 
are  not  available. 


HARDY  ANNUALS. 

Sow  hardy  Annuals  now  in  patches  in  the  borders 
and  beds. 


CARNATIONS. 

Sow  Carnation  seed  as  directed  in  the  ensuing 
month. 


86  APRIL. 


BIENNIALS  AND  PERENNIALS. 

Plant  out  such  of  these  as  were  sown  last  May, 
if  not  already  done,  observing  to  raise  them  with 
balls  of  earth,  and  to  water  afterwards. 

Biennials  so  removed  will  flower  in  the  same  year. 

The  sorts  to  be  planted  are  Lychnis,  Hollyhocks, 
Canterbury  Bells,  Wallflowers,  Calves-snout,  Rose 
Campion,  &c. 


TULIPS  AND  HYACINTHS. 

The  late  ones  are  beginning  to  blossom,  and  must 
be  protected  from  heavy  rain,  wind,  and  frost,  by 
close  matting,  or  canvass  over  hoops. 

The  very  common  kinds  may  take  chance  of 
weather,  which  will  injure  them  only  by  abridging 
the  period  of  their  flowering. 


DAHLIAS. 

If  the  Dahlias  pricked  out  last  month  in  pots 
have  become  crowded,  separate,  and  pot  them  again, 
either  singly  or  in  small  pots,  or  in  large  ones,  six 
inches  apart.  In  these  they  may  remain  until  finally 
planted  out,  at  the  end  of  May  or  commencement 
of  June. 


TUBEROSES. 

These,  if  not  planted  last  month,  should  now  be 
put  into  hot-beds,  each  in  a  pot  about  six  inches 


APRIL.  87 

diameter,  and  when  they  spindle,  let  them  be  care- 
fully staked ;  when  full  blown,  they  may  be  intro- 
duced in  the  boudoir  or  drawing-room,  where  they 
diffuse  a  delicious  fragrance.  They  are  annually 
imported  from  Italy,  and  may  be  purchased  at  the 
Italian  warehouses  or  seedsmens'  shops. 

Plant  out  the  "  plain  selvage  of  Box"  where  it  is 
required  ;  this  is,  however,  rather  late  for  this  work. 

Dress  all  flowers  in  pots  or  boxes,  applying  fresh 
earth,  removing  decayed  leaves,  watering  mode- 
rately, and  removing  plants  from  smaller  to  larger 
receptacles,  as  they  outgrow  their  jackets. 


EVERGREENS. 

This  is  probably  the  best  season  for  planting  Ever- 
greens, which  should  be  laid  in  wide  and  deep  holes 
saturated  with  farm  yard  puddle,  which  retains 
moisture  to  the  roots  for  a  considerable  time.  Stake 
the  tall  ones ; — and  besides  watering,  in  order  to 
save  newly-planted  shrubs  from  the  effects  of  hot 
sun  or  drying  wind,  lay  a  thick  covering  of  moss 
all  round  the  lower  parts,  or  even  stones  laid  about 
them  will  assist  in  preserving  moisture. 


GREEN-HOUSE. 

Unless  harsh  winds  prevail,  you  must  now  give 
constant  air  to  the  plants,  night  and  day,  as  there 
is  little  danger  of  injury  from  frost  to  those  under 
cover.  Want  of  a  free  circulation  of  air  will  cause 
the  plants  to  flower  weakly,  and  will  render  them 


88  APRIL. 

unable  to  bear  the  external  air  when  taken  out  in  a 
succeeding  season.  By  the  way,  this  may  afford  a 
practical  hint  to  tender  and  foolish  mothers  about 
the  nursery  management  of  their,  children,  which 
may  do  them  more  good  than  a  regular  essay  on 
the  subject.  The  want  of  frequent  exposure  to  air 
is  the  cause  of  half  our  diseases. 

Plant  cuttings  of  Heath,  Chinese  Roses,  and  such 
green-house  plants  as  have  young  wood  sufficiently 
ripe  ;  they  will  root  best  in  fine  sand,  under  glasses. 
Sow  the  seeds  of  tender  exotics  from  the  Cape,  Aus- 
tralia, or  other  warm  latitudes. 

Inarch  Exotics,  and  take  cuttings  of  Sedums, 
Ficoides,  and  other  succulent  plants,  but  do  not  put 
the  cuttings  of  the  hardier  kinds  in  earth  for  a  week, 
until  the  wounds  shall  have  time  to  heal,  observing 
to  place  them  in  the  shade  during  this  period.  When 
sufficiently  healed,  plant  them  in  pots  of  light  sandy 
soil,  and  give  but  little  water.  Inarch  and  graft 
Camellias,  which  are  now  beginning  to  shoot,  and 
should  be  abundantly  watered.  When  Camellias 
have  ceased  flowering,  remove  them  to  a  higher 
temperature,  but  shaded,  as  they  cannot  well  sustain 
the  sun's  direct  rays ;  thus  treated,  they  will  perfect 
their  shoots  and  form  their  flower-buds  well. 

Propagate  Jassmines  by  cuttings. 

During  this  and  the  next  month,  you  may,  at  your 
leisure,  remove  such  plants  as  require  more  room, 
into  larger  pots,  and  take  out  the  hardy  kinds  of 
green-house  plants,  placing  them  under  shelter  of  a 
hedge  or  wall,  and  admit  free  air  to  the  tenderest 
sorts  that  remain.  After  putting  your  choice  plants 
into  larger  pots,  plunge  them  into  the  bark,  which 
should  be  stirred  up  with  some  fresh  material  to 
renew  the  heat. 


APRIL.  89 

A  Selection  of  the  most  Ornamental  Herbaceous  Plants 

now  in  Blossom. 

Auricula,  Polyanthus,  Anemones  of  various  spe- 
cies, Gentianella,  purple  and  Siberian  Saxifrage, 
Star  of  Bethlehem,  Siberian  Squill,  Violets,  Alypum, 
Soldanella,  Alyssum,  &c. 


GREEN-HOUSE   PLANTS  IN  BLOSSOM. 

Acacia,  Heaths,  Camellia,  Epacris,  Kennedia, 
Polygala,  Grevillia,  Elichrisum,  Hovea,  Pimelia, 
Boronia,  Hypericum,  Struthiola,  &c. 


SHRUBS  IN  BLOSSOM. 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle,  early  Italian  do.,  Andro- 
meda, Rhodora  canadensis,  Rhododendron  dauri- 
cum,  Kalmia  glauca,  Daphne,  Heaths,  Double  Furze, 
Siberian  Crab,  Canada  Mesphilus,  Bird  Cherry, 
Double  flowered  do.,  Double  flowered  Peach,  Double 
flowered  Almond,  Tree  Peony,  (on  a  southern  aspect,) 
Chinese  Magnolias,  &c. 


ROUTINE  WORK. 

Clean  and  roll  gravel  walks,  and  if  you  have  grass 
walks,  keep  them  regularly  mown — once  a  fortnight 
at  least.  Clean,  trim,  and  rake  your  borders  ;  cut 
off  all  intruding  weeds,  and  tie  up  your  tall  plants  to 
rods  or  stakes. 

Do  every  thing  in  your  power  to  destroy  grubs 
of  every  kind,  which  are  highly  injurious  to  flowers, 
and  particularly  to  the  leaves  of  the  Rose  tree,  that 
most  beautiful  of  all  beautiful  shrubs, — 

"  Oh,  the  Rose,  the  first  of  flowers, 
Darling  of  the  early  bowers."  '  V^.. 

8* 


MONTHLY  CALENDAR. 


MAY. 


Sow  Biennials,  viz : — 

PURPLE  ROCKETS,  STOCKGILLIFLOWERS,  HOLLYHOCKS,  WALL- 
FLOWERS, CANTERBURY  BELLS,  ROSE  CAMPION,  SCABIOUS,  &c. 

Sow  PERENNIALS  also,  and  if  required,  some  more  hardy  Annu- 
als for  a  late  succession. 

Take  up  such  of  your  bulbs  as  have  their  foliage  withered. 


OBSERVATIONS 


MAY. 


This  is  considered  the  best  month  of  the  year  for 
sowing  Biennials.  Perennials  and  hardy  Annuals 
also  may  still  be  sown,  (though  last  month  would 
have  been  better  for  them,)  if  omitted  in  the  pre- 
ceding months.  A  sowing  of  Mignonette,  Indian 
Pinks,  Marygolds,  China  Asters,  &c.  will  give  a  late 
and  agreeable  succession  :  this,  however,  cannot  be 
deferred  beyond  the  first  week  of  the  month. 

Put  out  (in  pots)  the  tender  Annuals  into  a  fresh 
hot-bed  of  convenient  size  for  shading  and  watering, 
say  four  feet  in  breadth,  and  of  any  convenient 
length.  Take  the  precaution,  however,  of  not  plung- 
ing the  pots  into  the  beds  sooner  than  a  week  after 
its  formation,  else  sufficient  heat  will  not  have  been 
generated.  In  removing  these  Annuals  from  one 
pot  to  another,  as  they  increase  in  size,  be  careful 
to  take  up  a  ball  of  earth  entire  about  the  roots,  and 
supply  fresh  earth  to  the  pots,  well  pulverized,  of 
the  composts  recommended  before.  Cover  the  bed 
with,glasses,  giving  a  little  air  every  day,  and  shading 
the  plants  from  the  hot  sun,  until  they  are  strong 
enough  to  look  him  boldly  in  the  face.  Take  care 
also  to  let  the  steam  arising  from  the  bed  escape, 


94  MAY. 

else  it  will  hurt  the  leaves,  and  of  course  materially 
injure  the  whole  plant. 

Those  flowers  which  grow  very  tall,  such  as  Dou- 
ble Balsams,  Coxcombs,  Egg  Plants,  &c.  must,  of 
course,  have  head  room,  and  to  allow  this,  the  frame 
must  be  gradually  raised.  Where  there  is  not  what 
is  called  a  drawing-frame-,  I  would  avail  myself  of 
Mawe's  simple  substitute :  "  Fix  at  each  corner  of 
the  bed  an  upright  post  about  four  feet  high,  and  on 
the  inside  of  each  post  let  some  auger  holes  be  bored, 
allowing  six  inches  between  hole  and  hole  ; — then 
provide  four  iron  or  wooden  pins,  one  for  each  post, 
and  fitted  for  the  said  holes.  When  the  frame  wants 
to  be  raised,  let  the  pins  be  placed  in  the  holes  of 
the  post  at  a  convenient  height,  and  set  the  frame 
upon  the  pins.  When  the  frame  wants  raising  again, 
fix  the  pins  a  hole  higher,  and  so  proceed  as  the 
plants  rise  in  height.  Mind  to  close  up  the  vacancy 
at  the  bottom,  at  each  time  of  advancing  the  frame, 
by  nailing  some  good  thick  mats  round  the  outside 
below. 

As  a  general  rule,  I  would  recommend,  in  this 
climate,  that  tender  Annuals  should  always  be  kept 
in  pots  and  in  green-houses,  or  under  cover  of  some 
kind.  Shade  Tulips  and  Hyacinths  from  hot  sun — 
and  this  you  can  do  in  a  cheap  way ;  get  stakes,  four 
feet  long,  drive  them  one  foot  into  the  ground,  along 
the  sides  and  ends  of  the  bed,  at  eighteen  inches  dis- 
tance, tie  rods  between  them  across  the  bed,  to  sup- 
port an  awning  of  calico,  canvass,  or  bass  mat,  which 
are  only  to  be  put  on  for  excluding  full  sun,  wind, 
and  rain.  In  the  succeeding  months  it  will  be  es- 
sential to  shelter  Carnations,  which  cannot  blow  in 
perfection,  unless  protected  from  rain  and  mid-day 
sun. 

The  covering  should  be  removed  after  the  heat 


MAY.  95 

of  the  sun,  towards  evening,  and  not  replaced  before 
nine  in  the  morning. 


CARNATIONS. 


Sow  Carnation  seed  in  boxes  under  glass,  and 
when  they  are  well  up,  place  the  plants  in  a  western 
aspect,  and  water  them  carefully  in  dry  weather. 

Transplant  every  one  of  those  so  pricked  out  last 
year,  into  the  borders,  leaving  the  remaining  plants 
to  stand  and  blossom  in  the  beds. 


HALF-HARDY  AND  HARDY  ANNUALS. 

Prick  out  such  of  these  as  were  sown  last  month, 
into  fresh  hot-beds,  and  remove  those  that  have  been 
already  so  treated  to  the  places  where  they  are  to 
stand  for  flowering,  taking  care,  as  in  the  other  cases, 
to  water  and  shade  them  until  they  shall  have  taken 
root.  They  should  be  so  arranged  in  the  beds  as  to 
exhibit  their  varieties,  when  in  bloom,  to  the  greatest 
advantage ;  you  are  also  now  to  transplant  the  hardy 
annuals  from  the  patches  where  they  were  sown. 

Watering  is  essentially  necessary,  if  this  month  be 
dry,  to  make  flower-seeds  strike  quickly  and  flower 
in  the  course  of  the  summer. 

Many  plants,  such  as  Sweet  Pea,  Nasturtium,  and 
Convolvulus,  will  require  the  support  of  rods,  to 
which  they  should  be  tied  as  they  advance  in  height : 
a  tottering  or  trailing  plant  has  a  very  slovenly  ap- 
pearance, and  loses  its  vigor  from  want  of  support ; 
"  for  few  self-supported  flowers  endure  the  wind  un- 


06  MAT. 


injured,  but  expect  the  upholding  aid  of  the  smooth 
shaven  prop,  neatly  tied,  and  are  wedded  thus." 


DAHLIAS. 


Put  out  the  old  Dahlias  that  have  been  parted, 
potted,  and  rooted  in  the  preceding  months,  as  soon 
as  all  danger  of  frost  is  over,  having  previously  in- 
ured them  by  degrees  to  the  external  air. 


TREATMENT  OF  TULIPS,  RANUNCULUSES,  AND 
ANEMONES  IN  BLOSSOM. 

Shelter  these  from  high  winds  and  scorching  suns. 


AURICULAS. 

Shift  these  into  larger  pots  for  next  year's  blos- 
som, and  plant  offsets. 


POLYANTHUSES. 

Part  these,  if  not  previously  done,  and  plant  them 
in  a  shady  border,  observing  to  water  them  plenti- 
fully until  they  have  taken  root 


MAY.  97 


TREATMENT  OF  BULBS  OUT  OF  FLOWER. 

When  these  are  out  of  flower  take  them  up,  and 
after  drying  them  on  boards  or  a  mat  in  a  shaded 
place,  lay  them  by  for  the  planting  season. 


THE  TULIP, 

"The  fop  of  flowers," 

Should  not  be  suffered  to  remain  in  the  pot  to  ripen 
the  seed,  which  tends  to  debilitate  the  bulb.  Some 
of  the  sorts  of  Tulip  will  be  fit  for  raising  in  the 
course  of  this  month. 

The  winter  Aconite,  (Helleborus  hyemalis,)  if  not 
taken  up  now,  may  not  be  discovered  easily  at  a 
subsequent  season,  as  the  leaves  and  stalk  totally 
disappear  soon  after  flowering.* 

The  offsets  will  enable  you  to  multiply  the  num- 
bers considerably,  and  these  should  be  immediately 
taken  off  from  the  main  root.  The  principal  ones 
to  be  planted  by  themselves,  for  the  finest  flowers, 
in  the  ensuing  year. 

The  very  common  bulbs,  however,  such  as  Snow- 
drops and  Crocuses,  are  usually  left  for  years  with- 
out moving,  but  even  these  will  flower  better  and 
multiply  more  by  observing  the  foregoing  rule. 

To  obtain  offsets,  and  keep  separate  the  principal 
bulb,  allowing  it,  at  the  same  time,  total  rest  from 
vegetation  during  a  part  of  the  year,  are  the  reasons 
for  taking  them  up. 

If  the  time  of  raising  them  and  separating  the  off- 

*  This  is  propagated  by  pieces  of  the  root. 
9 


98  MAY. 

sets  be  postponed  for  many  days  after  evidence  of 
decay  in  the  leaf  and  stalk,  a  new  growth  of  fibres 
will  have  commenced,  and  then  to  check  their  veg- 
etation would  impair  the  flower  of  the  succeeding 
year,  or  possibly,  in  the  very  delicate  species,  pre- 
vent it  from  flowering  at  all. 


GREEN-HOUSE. 

Finish  the  shifting  and  dressing  of  the  plants,  in 
order  that  they  may  establish  their  vigor  before  they 
are  put  out. 

For  the  greater  part  of  Heath  and  Australian 
plants,  the  best  mould  is  that  from  heathy  hills  or 
dry  sandy  land ;  for  most  other  plants,  light  loam  or 
sandy  earth  is  the  best. 

To  render  thefn  particularly  vigorous,  the  com- 
post of  rotten  leaves  is  the  most  desirable,  but  let  it 
be  remembered,  that  health,  not  great  size  or  luxu- 
riance, is  what  should  be  principally  sought — 

"  'Tis  not  the  biggest,  but  the  best  we  prize." 

Among  the  green-house  plants,  though  one  of  our 
oldest,  the  Orange  or  Citrus  still  holds  a  superior 
rank,  and  deserves  especial  attention.  Taking  its 
tout  en  semble  into  account,  of  foliage,  flower,  and 
fruit,  we  have  none  to  equal  it. 

As  I  have  not  before  noticed  it,  I  may  be  permit- 
ted now  to  say  a  word  or  two  about  this  fragrant 
plant. 

"  The  Orange  breathes  its  aromatic  powers." 

It  is  generally  propagated  by  budding  or  grafting, 
sometimes  by  cuttings,  where  dwarfs  are  required. 


.^  MAY.  99 

For  stocks,  sow  Lime  or  Citron  seed,  which  will 
run  up,  if  kept  in  a  hot-bed,  about  twelve  inches  in 
the  first  season ;  in  the  next  spring,  transplant  them 
into  small  pots ;  these  may  be  budded  the  same  sea- 
son, or  the  following  spring  grafted ;  but  to  have 
vigorous  plants,  take  from  shrubs  three  or  four  years 
old,  or  if  you  wish  for  high  stems,  five  or  six  years 
old.  Give  them  a  mild  bottom  heat,  and  the  grafts 
or  buds  will  take  the  more  freely  :  cover  the  grafts 
with  the  bell-glass.* 

Oranges  in  this  climate  should  not  be  exposed  to 
the  open  air,  but  kept  under  glass,  not  in  the  strong 

flare  of  the  sun.     They  require  shade  in  summer, 
ut  in  winter  may  be  placed  any  where,  if  protected 
from  frost.     At  that  season  they  should  be  kept 
rather  dry,  but  when  growing,  they  require  frequent 
watering  and  sprinkling. 

Light  rich  sod-mould,  well  rotted,  mixed  with  one- 
third  of  rotten  dung,  is  a  good  compost  for  them. 

Large  receptacles  do  not  answer  for  them.  The 
pots  or  tubs  should  always  be  filled  with  roots,  be- 
fore the  plants  are  shifted  into  others,  and  the  bot- 
toms well  drained. 

This  treatment  applies  to  those  which  are  raised 
here,  as  well  as  to  those  imported  from  Italy,  and 
to  be  had  at  the  Italian  warehouses  every  spring, 
in  London,  with  strong  stems,  from  four  to  five  feet 
high.  The  fruit  comes  to  perfection  ip  this  coun- 
try, if  the  tree  be  planted  in  a  terraced  border,  and 
trained  to  a  trellis-work  at  the  back  wall  of  the 
green-house,  where  it  produces  a  beautiful  effect. 
The  flower  is  used  as  a  preserve,  or  to  make  Orange 
flower  water. 


*  The  great  Orange  trees  at  Margam,  in  Glamorganshire,  are  put 
out  every  summer. 


100  MAY. 

I  have  been  assured  that  at  Paris  the  produce  of 
one  good  headed  tree,  for  the  latter  purpose,  sells 
for  half  a  guinea.  The  Orange  trees  in  the  Tuille- 
ries  are  so  managed. 

The  principal  species  of  the  Citrus  are,  the  Sweet 
and  Seville  Orange,  Japan,  Mandarin,  and  Myrtle- 
leaved  Lemon,  the  Acid  and  Sweet  Lime,  Citron, 
and  Shaddock. 

When  your  green-house  plants  are  established  in 
the  pots  after  removal,  and  a/ter  all  danger  of  frost 
is  over,  let  them  be  placed  in  a  sheltered  spot  for  a 
short  time,  to  inure  them  to  the  situation  in  which 
they  are  to  remain  during  the  summer :  that  situa- 
tion, though  sheltered,  should  not  be  shaded,  but 
open,  and  especially  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the 
morning  sun.  If  the  pots  be  sunk  in  some  light 
damp  substance,  such  as  old  tan,  they  will  be  secured 
from  extreme  drought,  and  much  trouble  in  water- 
ing will  be  avoided. 

Clear  standard  Roses  of  suckers  from  the  stalk : 
bud  stocks  of  the  wild  or  dog-brier  Rose,  and  they 
will  push  well  the  same  season.  Grafting  and  bud- 
ding roses  is  a  frequent  practice  on  the  continent. 


BULBS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS  IN 
FLOWER  DURING  THIS  MONTH. 

Tulips,  Anemones,  Ranunculuses,  Iris,  Fritillary, 
Crown  Imperial,  Star  of  Bethlehem,  Peruvian  Squill, 
Lily  of  the  Valley,  &c. 


HERBACEOUS  PLANTS  IN  FLOWER. 

These  are  so  numerous,  that  I  must  confine  my- 
self to  a  selection  of  the  most  ornamental : — Anchusa 


MAY.  101 

italica,  Savory,  Spiderwort,  White  Asphodel,  Frax- 
inella,  American  Cowslip,  Double  Purple  and  White 
Rockets,  Mimulus,  Peonies,  (various,)  early  flower- 
ing Phlox,  of  different  sorts ;  Potentillas,  (various,) 
Pyramidal  Saxifrage,  Herbaceous  Ranunculus,  Spi- 
derwort, Globe  Flower,  Summer  Snowdrop,  Vero- 
nicas, Pansie  Violet,  &c. 


PRINCIPAL  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS  IN  FLOWER. 

Geraniums  of  various  kinds ;  Convolvulus,  yel- 
low-leaved Asphodel,  Ficoides,  Myrtles,  Jasmine, 
Heaths  of  many  varieties,  Fuchsia,  Calceolaria, 
Gnidia,  Heliotropum,  Jasmine,  Magnolia,  Cheiran- 
thus,  Helianthemum  formosum,  Aniseed  Tree,  Ixia, 
— a  Cape  bulb  in  great  varieties,  of  beautiful  color 
and  form,  somewhat  corresponding  with  our  Crocus. 


SHRUBS  IN  FLOWER. 

Rhododendron,  Kalmia,  Azalea,  and  some  Andro- 
medas ;  Judas  Tree,  Cytisus,  Laburnum,  Lilac, 
Brooms,  Thorns  of  various  sorts,  Helianthemum, 
Sedum,  Rose  Acacia,  Roses  of  various  sorts,  Scotch 
Pompone,  &c.  &c. 


CLIMBERS. 

Passion  Flower,  Clematis  virginiana,  Cobaea,  Bra- 

chysema,  &c. 

9* 


102  MAY. 


Observations  on  some  of  the  Plants  in  Flower  during 
this  Month. 

CROWN  IMPERIAL. 

"  Crown  her  queen  of  all  the  year." 

This  plant,  when  double,  and  striped  with  yellow 
and  red,  is  strikingly  beautiful,  with  its  large  pendant 
flower,  surmounted  by  a  nodding  crown ;  it  is  to  be 
admired,  however,  at  a  distance,  for  its  scent,  on  near 
approach,  is  any  thing  but  attractive. 


PERUVIAN  SQUILL 

Is  a  neat  border  flower,  having  a  blue  or  white 
cone  at  an  elevation  of  four  inches. 


LILY  OF  THE  VALLEY. 
"  The  Lily,  silver  mistress  of  the  vale." 

Any  lengthened  description  of  this  dear  little  un- 
assuming and  retiring  flower,  is  unnecessary ;  every 
one  knows  it,  and  every  one  loves  it.  Sandy  soil 
and  shade  are  best  suited  to  its  nature ;  though  I 
Have  seen  it  flourish  in  strong  soil,  and  a  sunny 
aspect.  The  roots  should  be  separated  (in  autumn) 
once  in  three  years.  There  are  three  varieties  of 
this  Lily,  two  single  and  one  double,  the  latter  origi- 
nally brought  from  Holland.  One  of  these  varieties 
bears  a  redish  flower. 


MAY. 


AMERICAN  COWSLIP. 

"Where  the  bee  sucks,  there  suck  I ; 
In  a  Cowslip's  bell  I  lie." 

The  above  species  is  also  called  Dodecatheon 
Media,*  (from  its  twelve  stamina,  and  the  celebrated 
Dr.  Mead,)  its  leaves  are  flat  and  rounded :  from  the 
centre  it  sends  out  one  or  more  slender  stalks,  about 
nine  inches  high,  bearing  a  head  of  delicate  lilac 
flowers,  (turned  back,)  with  a  pendulous  beak  of  an 
orange  color.  Of  this  flower  there  are  two  or  three 
varieties.  Though  a  native  of  Virginia,  it  cannot 
bear  a  scorching  sun,  for  there  it  occupies  the  woods. 
It  should  only  be  exposed  to  the  morning  sun  ;  and 
as  to  its  soil,  a  mixture  of  turf-mould,  rotten  leaves, 
and  sand,  will  prove  the  most  suitable. 


AQUILEGIA  CANADENSIS, 

OR  WILD  COLUMBINE. 

This  beautiful  little  perennial,  with  its  yellow 
flowers  tinged  with  scarlet,  is  found  wild  in  almost 
all  parts  of  the  United  States,  flowering  during  the 
months  of  April  and  May.  It  is  generally  found  in 
a  dry  soil,  and  most  usually  about  the  sunny  side 
of  rocks  ;  it  is  cultivated  with  ease,  requiring  very 
little  attention :  common  garden  earth,  without  ad- 
ditional manure,  is  sufficiently  rich  for  it.  The 
plant  is  readily  recognised  by  comparing  it  with  the 
drawing  given  at  the  head  of  the  spring  months. — G. 

*  The  plant  more  generally  known  in  the  United  States  as 
American  Cowslip,  is  the  Caltha  palustris,  a  showy  yellow  flower, 
seen  in  moist  grounds  during  April  and  May  throughout  the  northern 
States,  and  called  Marsh  Marigold,  or  American  Cowslip. — G. 


104  MAY. 

ROCKETS. 


-  yielding  a  balmy  fragrance 
f  day,  when  other  plants  exhale 


At  close  o 

A  noxious  fragrance." 

These  are  beautiful  garden  flowers,  which,  as  they 
grow  in  a  spiral  form,  do  not  spread  and  suffocate 
the  adjoining  ones.  The  single  kinds  having  little 
beauty,  when  compared  with  the  double,  are  seldom 
cultivated  by  florists,  but  they  are  hardy  and  will 
thrive  in  a  shady  border.  The  double  Rocket  is  a 
biennial,  and  has  purple  and  white  varieties,  of  great 
beauty  and  fragrance.  If  propagated  by  seed,  the 
plants  will  flower  in  the  second  season.  The  fol- 
lowing remarks,  with  directions  for  its  culture,  are 
given  by  Robertson : — "  The  double  Rocket  is  a 
beautiful  plant,  rather  scarce,  owing  to  florists  not 
being  acquainted  with  a  successful  way  of  increas- 
ing it.  I  had  a  few  plants  of  Rocket  under  my  care, 
and  I  did  them  all  justice,  as  I  thought,  but  all  would 
not  do ;  I  lost  them  all.  I  tried  to  part  their  roots, 
but  being  small  and  weak,  the  slugs  eat  them  up  in 
a  short  time  ;  I  tried  to  increase  them  by  cuttings  in 
the  common  way,  with  as  little  success.  This  led 
me  to  try  another  method,  which  I  would  recom- 
mend as  a  never-failing  way  of  propagating  this 
beautiful  flower.  If  a  person  has  but  one  plant  of 
Rocket,  and  is  anxious  for  its  flowers,  the  first  thing 
is,  after  the  flower  is  beginning  to  fade,  to  cut  down 
the  stalks,  and  divide  them  into  ordinary  lengths  of 
cuttings ;  next  to  cut  off  the  leaves  and  smooth  the 
ends ;  then  to  make  three  slits  with  a  knife,  in  the 
bark  or  rind,  lengthwise,  so  as  to  separate  or  raise  the 
bark  for  half  an  inch  in  length.  When  the  cutting 
is  inserted  in  the  ground,  the  loose  bark  naturally 
curls  up ;  and  it  is  from  this  bark  that  the  young 


MAY.  105 

roots  proceed.  The  partial  separation,  and  the  turn- 
ing up  of  the  bark,  seems  to  promote  a  tendency  to 
throw  out  roots.  The  cuttings  may  be  put  into 
flower-pots,  as  they  may  thus  be  sheltered  in  winter 
with  more  ease,  or  they  may  be  placed  in  the  natu- 
ral earth,  provided  the  soil  is  light  and  fresh.  Cover- 
ing them  with  a  hand-glass  will  forward  the  rooting 
of  the  cuttings,  or  with  the  aid  of  a  hot-bed  they  will 
succeed  excellently.  I  have  practised  this  method 
for  six  years,  and  never  without  success,  not  one  in 
twenty  having  failed.  This  method  will  hold  good 
in  cuttings  of  Stockgilliflowers  and  double  Wall 
flowers." 


PEONIES, 

"Erect  and  tall," 

Are  too  large  for  a  very  limited  garden :  they 
answer  best  in  the  borders  of  large  gardens,  or  in 
shrubberies,  where  they  may  grow  tall  without  an- 
noying their  neighbors.  They  are  hardy  enough 
to  flourish  any  where,  and  at  this  season  they  pre- 
sent a  very  showy  appearance.  The  flowers  are 
pink,  purple,  and  white. 

Peonies  are  best  propagated  by  parting  the  roots 
in  September,  in  doing  which,  care  must  be  taken 
to  leave  a  bud  on  the  crown  of  each,  and  not  to  sub- 
divide too  much.  The  parts  should  be  planted  three 
inches  deep. 


PYRAMIDAL   SAXIFRAGE 

Is  an  old,  yet  very  ornamental  plant,  generally 
kept  in  pots  for  exhibition-halls,  and  flower-stands, 


106'  MAY. 

throwing  up  in  this  month  a  pyramid  of  white 
flowers,  which  will  continue  during  the  next. 


PANSIE  VIOLET. 

Nor  is  the  Violet  last  in  this  shining  embassy  of  the  year." 

This  flower,  always  a  charming  one,  expressive 
emblem  of  those  modest  virtues  which  delight  to 
bloom  in  obscurity,  has,  latterly,  by  careful  culti- 
vation, become,  professionally  speaking,  a  florist's 
flower,  exhibiting  as  long  a  list  of  names  as  any  of 
its  compeers.  It  has  been  brought  to  its  great  per- 
fection in  size  and  color  by  mixing  the  seeds.* 

The  culture  is  very  simple,  by  seed  and  parting. 


FICOIDES. 

" and  the  spangled  beau 

Ficoides,  glitters  bright,  the  winter  long." 

Notwithstanding  the  allusion  to  winter  in  the  motto, 
Picoides  are  now  in  blossom.  They  are  curious 
plants,  and  rather  hardy.  Their  best  position  is  out- 
side the  wall  of  a  hot-house,  where  they  grow  better 
in  rich  and  fresh  mould,  than  if  complimented  with 
pots  inside.  They  are  classed  by  botanists  under 
the  name,  Me-sem-bry-an-the-mum,  which  word  is 
derived  from  Greek  words,  signifying  a  flower  which 
opens  in  mid-day. 

Some  of  them  are  very  beautiful :  they  are  sun- 
flowers in  miniature,  of  various  colors,  and  flower 

*  Technically  termed,  hybridizing.  [ 


MAY.  IOT 

abundantly.  Of  the  tremendously  large  family  of 
the  Me-sem-bry-an-the-mum,*  the  Ice  Plant  is  the 
greatest  favorite. 


MARVEL  OF  PERU. 

This  plant,  a  native  of  Peru,  (Mirabilis  jalapaf) 
attains  great  size,  if  grown  in  deep  and  rich  earth ; 
it  is  sown  in  a  border,  as  it  becomes  too  tall  for  the 
flower-bed.  It  must  have  abundant  room  wherever 
it  is  placed,  as  it  causes  considerable  shade.  In  order 
to  see  its  varied  flowers  in  perfection,  the  amateur 
florist  must  be  a  pretty  early  riser.  Cobbett  says, 
that  by  housing  the  root  in  winter,  it  may  be  made 
a  perennial.  The  Marvel  of  Peru  grows  about 
two  feet ;  it  is  bushy,  and  full  of  pink  and  striped 
flowers.  If  the  roots  be  preserved  and  treated 
Jike  those  of  the  Dahlia,  it  will  be  very  ornamental 
through  the  summer,  nor  does  it  close  even  in  the 
evening,  for  which  reason  the  French  call  it  la  belk 
de  nuit.  One  species  of  it,  the  long-tubed,  is  very 
fragrant. 


STOCKGILLIFLOWER. 
"  Fair  is  the  Gilliflower  of  gardens  sweet" 

Of  this  rich  and  beautiful  flower  there  are  many 
varieties,  but  the  purple  or  red  stock,  (Mathiola  pur- 
purea,)  and  the  scarlet,  (Mathiola  coccinea,)  and 
Brompton,  and  Twickenham,  are  the  finest;  they 
begin  to  blossom  this  month,  and  sometimes  exhibit  a 

*  There  are  three  hundred  kinds. 


108  MAY. 

splendid  stem  of  double  flowers,  sixteen  or  eighteen 
inches  in  length.  This  month  is  the  time  for  saving 
the  seed ;  that  sown  in  the  preceding  year,  as  di- 
rected in  the  last  month,  will  now  be  in  flower. 

Plants  that  have  blown  well  are  scarcely  worth 
holding  over  for  a  second  year,  as  they  seldom  pro- 
duce strong  flowers  more  than  once. 

Another  approved  mode  of  propagating  double 
flowering  stalks,  is  to  take  slips  and  cuttings  from 
the  double  sorts;  but  plants  so  raised  are  never  pro- 
ductive of  such  fine  flowers  as  the  parent  exhibited, 
nor  equal  to  those  from  seedlings.  Successions  of 
this  flower  are  in  blossom  during  many  months  of  the 
year.  "  The  Gilliflower,  like  a  real  friend,  attends 
you  through  the  vicissitudes  and  alterations  of  the 
season,  while  others  make  a  transient  visit  only." 

The  small  annual  stock  is  also  called  the  ten-week 
stock,  from  its  flowering  in  ten  weeks  after  being 
sown ;  this,  if  carefully  saved,*  generally  produces 
fine  double  flowers  ;  there  are  numerous  shades  or 
varieties  of  this,  called  Russian  and  German  stock. 
Light  fresh  soil  is  best  for  these. 


THE  WALLFLOWER, 

OR   CHEIRANTHUS. 
"  The  yellow  Wallflower,  stained  with  iron  brown." 

The  straw-colored  is  a  more  tender  variety  than 
either  the  yellow  or  the  bloody.  The  purple-colored 
is  deficient  in  fragrance,  but  its  appearance  renders 
it  worthy  of  high  estimation.  The  old  double  bloody 
Wallflower  is  not  in  high  fashion. 

*  See  the  French  mode  of  saving  it. 


MAY.  109 

The  truth  is,  that  we  have  become  two  fastidious 
and  fanciful,  and  often,  from  their  variety  or  delicacy, 
value  flowers  infinitely  less  worthy  of  admiration, 
than  many  of  those  which  we  despise. 

One  of  the  species,  (Cheiranthus  mutabilis,)  or 
changeable-flowered  Wallflower,  blossoms  during 
the  whole  year,  if  kept  in  shelter ;  exhibiting  red  and 
purple  flowers,  intermixed. 

The  Wallflower  is  propagated  precisely  as  the 
Stockgilliflower,  by  slips  ;  the  very  choice  sort  is 
raised  by  seed. 


THE  PASSION  FLOWER. 

"  Enfringed  with  an  empurpled  blue, 

And  streaked  with  young  Pomona's  green." 

This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  creepers,  and  it 
now  exhibits  its  lovely  flowers.  "  Among  all  the 
beauties  which  shine  in  sunny  robes,  and  sip  the  sil- 
ver dews,  this,  I  think,  has  the  noblest  import,  if  not 
the  finest  presence.  Were  they  all  to  pass  in  review, 
and  expect  the  award  of  superiority  from  any  deci- 
sion, I  should  not  hesitate  a  moment.****  While 
others  appoint  it  a  place  in  the  parterre,  I  would 
transplant  the  Passion  Flower,  or  rather  its  sacred 
signification,  to  my  heart.  There  let  it  bloom  both 
in  summer  and  winter;  bloom  in  the  most  expressive 
characters,  and  with  an  undecaying  lustre."*  Many 
kinds  of  the  Passi  Flora  are  stove  plants,  but  this 
which  I  am  now  noticing  is  a  hardy  and  well  known 
climber,  the  only  kind  that  will  bear  exposure  during 
our  winters ;  it  thrives  best  in  loam  and  peat,  and 
should  have  a  southern  aspect  for  the  sake  of  its 

*  Harvey's  Reflections  on  a  Flower  Garden. 
10 


110  MAY. 

beautiful  fruit.  It  is  propagated  by  cuttings,  seeds, 
or  layers.  Seed  sown  in  a  hot-bed  will  be  fit  for 
planting  out  in  the  following  year.  Layers  will  be 
sufficiently  struck  in  twelve  months ;  and  cuttings, 
made  early  in  spring,  before  the  plant  begins  to  bud, 
will  bear  planting  out  in  the  next  spring.  If  placed 
under  glass,  in  a  hot-bed,  they  will  very  speedily  root 


V   CLEMATIS^ 

"The  Clematis,  the  favored  flower, 
Which  boasts  the  name  of  virgin  bower.'1'' 

This  is  also  a  lovely  ornament  to  the  wall,  and  is 
very  hardy,  growing  in  almost  any  soil,  (light  loam 
the  best,  however,)  and  easily  propagated  by  cut- 
tings, which  soon  strike  if  put  under  glasses. 

The  motto  will  set  some  people  right,  about  the 
pronunciation  of  the  word  "Clematis;"  most  persons 
laying  the  accent  on  the  second  syllable,  instead  of 
the  first,  if  the  lamented  author  of  the  "  Lady  of  the 
Lake"  be  considered  authority. 

The  Virgin  Bower  is  found  wild  in  almost  every 
part  of  the  United  States,  and  is  frequently  seen 
covering  the  fences  with  its  large  white  flowers, 
during  most  of  the  month  of  June.- 


THE  MYRTLE, 

"  Which  breathes  its  balmy  fragrance  o'er  the  wild," 

Though  a  conservatory  or  green-house  plant,  has 
some  hardy  varieties,  which,  in  many  parts  of  this 
mild  climate,  grow  freely  in  the  open  air.  In  win- 


MAY.  Ill 

ter,  however,  it  is  necessary  to  guard  against  frost 
and  snow ;  for  this  purpose,  let  stakes  be  driven  into 
the  ground  to  bear  cross-sticks  or  rafters,  for  the 
support  of  a  few  well-tied  bundles  of  straw  or  furze 
faggots.* 


FUCHSIAS. 

Amongst  the  great  variety  of  green-house  plants 
in  blossom  this  month,  the  Fuchsia  stands  pre-emi- 
nent for  attractive  powers. 

The  species  are  of  all  sizes,  from  nine  inches  to 
nine  feet,  clothed  with  brilliant  crimson  flowers  ;  so 
gracefully  pendant  throughout  the  season,  that  they 
strike  even  the  dullest  eye  with  admiration.  They 
are  natives  of  Chili,  (probably  of  the  mountainous 
parts,)  and  hardy  enough  to  stand  our  ordinary  win- 
ters,f  in  a  warm  situation.  We  have  now  ten  or 
twelve  sorts,  and  more  are  expected.  The  ordinary 
treatment  of  Geraniums  suits  them. 


RHODODENDRONS,  AZALEAS,  KALMIAS,  AN- 
DROMEDAS. 

These  are  called  American  plants,  and  run  into 
endless  varieties.  When  in  bloom,  they  are  very 

*  I  have  heard  it  said,  (but  do  not  vouch  for  it  as  a  fact,)  that  in 
winter  the  peasants  of  the  county  of  Kerry  sometimes  protect  their 
small  breed  of  black  cattle,  during  their  mountain  wanderings,  by 
a  dorsal  thatching  of  faggots, — experience  having  proved,  that  the 
foolish  little  animals  had  the  indiscretion,  when  hungry,  (no  uncom- 
mon case  with  them,)  to  eat  off  each  other's  cloaks  when  made  of 
straw. 

f  This  remark  applies  to  the  winters  of  Ireland,  and  not  to  those 
of  the  northern  states  of  this  country. — G. 


MAY. 

onamental ;  the  foliage  is  rich,  and  the  form  agree- 
able. They  require  similar  treatment  in  general — 
a  sheltered  situation  shaded  from  the  noonday  sun, 
heathy  soil,  sweet  and  dry,  taken  from  the  skirts  of 
a  bog,  or  sandy  peat  obtained  from  a  mountain  side, 
(where  water  never  stands,)  and  such  as  is  mixed 
with  fine  white  sand.  This  should  be  laid  sixteen 
or  eighteen  inches  deep,  to  receive  them.  Should 
the  season  prove  hot  and  dry,  they  must  be  kept 
moist  by  watering ;  but  much  of  this  trouble  may 
be  saved  by  laying  a  coat  of  moss  round  them.  To 
describe  the  varieties  would  be  endless,  as  they  are 
multiplied  every  day  by  hybridizing.  One,  however, 
lately  introduced  from  Nepaul — the  Rhododendron 
arboreum — must  not  be  overlooked. 

This  is  an  evergreen  tree,  thirty  or  forty  feet  high, 
and  crowned  with  bunches  of  either  scarlet  or  white 
flowers ;  it  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  vegetable 
objects  imaginable  at  the  base  of  the  snow-clad  moun- 
tains of  its  native  country.  In  Ceylon,  near  Adams' 
Peak,  it  is  also  found ;  and  it  thrives  well  in  this 
country,  flowering  here,  and  bearing  our  winters, 
(that  is,  of  Ireland,)  though  not  those  of  England, 
without  injury. 


THE  ROSE  ACACIA. 

"  Smiling  there, 

The  Acacia  waves  her  yellow  hair, 
Lovely  and  sweet." 

A  native  of  Virginia,  makes  long  straggling  shoots, 
and  is  fortified  with  straight  spines,  like  those  of  the 
Raspberry.  It  bears  a  profusion  of  rose-colored 
flowers,  in  pendulous  branches,  six  or  eight  inches 
long ;  it  requires  staking,  as  it  is  brittle,  but  no  other 
peculiar  treatment. 


MAY.  115 


WISTERIA,  OR  GLYCINE  SINENSIS, 

Is  a  trailing  creeping  plant,  that  requires  a  warm 
wall  or  paling  for  its  support,  but  amply  repays  all 
trouble  by  its  beauty  ;  it  is  of  the  family  from  China. 
When  established  in  the  ground,  it  will  shoot  ten  or 
twelve  feet  in  a  season,  and  is  hung  on  the  old  wood 
with  long  bunches  of  pale  purple  flowers,  like  those 
of  the  Laburnum.  In  autumn  it  throws  out  a  second 
crop,  rather  larger  in  size  than  the  first. 


TREE  PEONY. 

Another  precious  novelty  from  China,  which  has 
supplied  us  with  so  many  plants,  but  with  none 
more  superb  than  this.  This  shrub  bears  flowers, 
in  form  like  those  of  the  common  Peony,  but  in 
greater  profusion  and  of  more  beauty.  It  is  of  va- 
riegated rose-color.  There  are  some  varieties,  as 
the  Banksia,  the  Passaveracea,  with  a  flower  painted 
like  the  Gumcistus,  but  single — and  some  newly 
raised  from  seed. 

On  its  first  introduction  it  was  kept  in  conserva- 
tories, but  experience  has  proved  that  it  stands  our 
winter  well.  It  thrives  best  in  a  light  rich  soil,  and 
should  have  a  warm  and  sheltered  situation,  as  frosts 
*riay  blight  its  flowers. 


10* 


114  MAY. 


BOUTINE  WORK. 

Weeds  now  grow  very  rapidly ;  they  should  be 
picked  out  carefully,  as  fast  as  they  intrude,  from  the 
beds,  borders,  and  pots. 

Keep  gravel-walks  also  free  from  weeds ;  and  in 
order  to  do  this  effectually,  you  may  scatter  salt 
abundantly  on  them,  taking  care  not  to  lay  it  on  the 
edging,  which  it  would  destroy.  This  is,  however, 
but  a  slovenly  practice  ;  it  is  better  to  depend  on  the 
hoe,  or  the  finger  and  thumb. 


MONTHLY  CALENDAR. 


JUNE. 


Take  some  of  the  tender  annuals,  viz.  CACALIA,  SEDUMS,  CAPE 
MARIGOLDS,  BALSAMS,  AMARANTHS,  &c.,  to  the  green-house,  in 
place  of  the  Exotics  moved  into  the  open  air. 

Put  into  the  flower  borders,  MARYGOLDS,  INDIA  PINKS,  CONVOL- 
VULUS MAJOR,  &c. 

Pick  out  seedling  perennials  and  biennials. 

Propagate  ROSES  and  other  shrubs. 

Plant  cuttings  of  ROCKETS,  and  DOUBLE  SCARLET  LYCHNIS, 

Take  care  of  HYACINTH  roots. 


JUNE 


Is  not  so  busy  a  month  for  the  florists  as  the  last 
has  been ;  they  may  now  rest  a  little  from  their 
labors,  and  enjoy  the  rewards  of  their  care  and  at- 
tention, in  the  brilliant  display  of  flowers  which  will 
everywhere  meet  their  admiring  view ;  still,  enough 
is  to'be  done  to  afford  agreeable  employment,  and 
to  prevent  total  intermission  of  anxiety  and  interest. 


TENDER  ANNUALS. 

The  green-house  plants  being  now  finally  arranged 
out  of  doors,  the  tender  annuals  may  supply  their 
place  within :  intermingling  with  the  dry  and  suc- 
culent plants,  which  during  the  winter  have  been 
kept  in  the  dry  and  dusty  corners  of  the  back  shelves, 
and  which  the  high  temperature  of  your  house  will 
now  suit. 

The  Agave,  or  American  Aloe,  is  the  subject  of  a 
marvellous  story  regarding  its  blossoming,  which  it 
is  said  takes  place  only  once  in  a  hundred  years. 
But  I  believe  that,  though  there  may  be  some  foun- 
dation for  this  assertion,  in  this  cold  climate,  where 
it  blows  at  very  long  intervals,  it  blooms  in  more 
southern  ones,  once  in  four  or  five  years,  and  then  it 
is  truly  a  splendid  object — its  flower-stalk  starting 
up  twenty  or  thirty  feet  in  height.  The  tender  an- 
nuals which  are  not  destined  for  the  green-house  are 
to  be  planted  in  the  flower  borders  from  the  hot-bed. 


118  JUNE. 

Balsams*  and  Marygolds,  (French  and  African,) 
Indian  Pinks,  Convolvulus  major,  (Ipomoea,)  Ama- 
ranthus,  and  many  others  may,  in  the  course  of  this 
month,  be  put  into  the  borders  or  beds,  in  showery 
weather,  if  such  there  should  be,  and  if  not,  let  them 
be  moderately  and  carefully  watered. 


DAHLIAS. 

Finish  planting  out  your  Dahlias  in  good  strong 
loam,  for  it  is  in  this  they  attain  the  greatest  perfec- 
tion ;  plant  them  three,  four,  or  six  feet  apart,  ac- 
cording to  their  size,  ranging  them  with  reference 
to  their  height,  and  water  them  when  in  full  bloom, 
with  liquid  manure.  If  you  have  spare  room,  change 
their  location  every  year ;  if  not,  trench  up  the  ground 
and  add  some  fresh  compost  every  season,  or  (which 
will  have  the  same  effect)  raise  new  tubers  every 
year  from  the  cuttings  of  your  most  approved  varie- 
ties. The  finest  Dahlias  degenerate  if  confined  to 
the  same  soil.  Staking  them  is  necessary,  else  the 
wind  will  make  sad  havoc  among  them  when  their 
branches  become  heavy. 

The  firmest  mode  of  staking  is  by  placing  three 
sticks  in  an  angular  position,  one  of  a  height  exceed- 
ing the  probable  altitude  of  the  plant,  and  the  other 
two  about  one-half  its  height ;  these  firmly  tied  at 
their  point  of  junction,  form  a  secure  frame  for  the 
support  of  the  plant,  (which  will  soon  conceal  it  by 
its  foliage,)  that  no  wind  can  disturb. 

Another,  and  a  neater  mode,  is  by  placing  two  or 

*  The  Balsam,  Coxcomb,  Ipomoea,  and  Amaranthus  will,  how- 
ever, blow  much  better  if  retained  in  the  green-house.  The  sama 
may  be  said  of  almost  all  the  tender  and  half-hardy  annuali. 


JUNE.  119 

three  sticks  in  upright  and  parallel  directions,  and 
tying  two  or  three  hoops,  (according  to  the  growth 
of  the  Dahlia,)  horizontally  round  them.  The  plant 
in  the  centre  will  be  secure,  if  the  sticks  be  suffi- 
ciently driven  into  the  ground.  In  the  culture,  leave 
only  one  shoot,  (the  strongest,)  on  the  tuber.  Those 
which  you  take  off)  (removed  as  low  as  possible,  with 
a  portion  of  the  tuber,)  will  become  strong  flower- 
ing plants  the  same  season. 


PIPING  PINKS. 

This  is  the  season  for  piping  Pinks,  to  have  which 
in  perfection,  the  plants  now  flowering  should  be  of 
last  year's  piping.  The  bed  should  be  richly  ma- 
nured. If  you  neglect  piping  or  slipping  Pinks  now, 
you  will  fail  in  preserving  a  succession  of  plants. 
The  end  of  this  month  is  the  best  time  for  piping, 
(which  is  effected  by  pulling*  the  heart  of  the  shoot 
out  of  the  stem  at  the  second  joint.) — by  layering,  as 
with  the  Carnation,  (separating  the  young  shoots 
partly  from  the  mother  stem,  and  drawing  the  earth 
about  them) — or  by  cutting  the  shoot  across  at  the 
same  point,  and  sticking  these  shoots  in  a  bed  of 
rich  light  compost,  sifted  fine  and  watered,  about 
one  inch  apart  and  half  an  inch  deep.  The  first 
method  is  resorted  to  when  a  large  supply  is  wanted, 
but  it  is  not  so  certain  as  the  other  methods,  which 
will  afford  a  moderate  sufficiency.  It  is  said  that 
pipings  yield  the  largest  flowers.  If  you  have  an 
old  hot-bed,  of  milk  heat,  it  will  be  the  best  recep- 
tacle for  the  abstracted  parts ;  cover  them  with  a 
cap-glass,  or  frame,  and  shade  them  from  the  sun, 
occasionally  watering  them  until  they  strike. 

*  The  least  approved  mode. 


120  JUNE 


CARNATIONS. 


Tie  up  your  Carnations,  as  they  spindle ;  dress  the 
surface  of  the  pot  with  light  rich  compost,  and  lay 
on  it  a  thin  coat  of  very  rotten  dung,  which  will  re- 
fresh the  plant  and  keep  it  cool. 


AURICULAS  AND  POLYANTHUSES. 

Repot  these ;  increase  them  by  offsets,  and  place 
them  in  a  shady  eastern  aspect ;  water  them  in  dry 
weather.  Take  care,  also,  to  keep  them  free  from 
weeds,  grubs,  and  decayed  leaves. 


ANEMONES  AND  RANUNCULUSES. 

Shade  these  plants,  and  water  them  occasionally 
with  liquid  manure.  Indeed,  this  is  an  admirable 
cordial  for  most  plants — particularly  in  exhausted 
beds  or  pots — its  basis  being  carbon  (or  charcoal)  in 
solution,  which  forms  the  substance  of  vegetables, 
from  which,  as  well  as  from  all  animal  matter,  it  may- 
be extracted,  and  modified  in  various  ways.  The 
manure  principally  used  in  gardens  for  supplying 
this  carbon  in  solution,  and  as  the  most  stimulant,  is 
the  dung  of  pigeons  and  sheep ;  but  other  manure, 
administered  in  greater  quantities,  will  answer  as 
well.  Malt  dust,  and  soot  and  wood  ashes,  are 
powerful  stimulants.  Sheep's  dung  has  been  proved 
highly  nutritious  to  bulbs,  but  any  extract  of  dung, 
judiciously  applied,  will  serve  the  desired  purpose. 


JUNE.  121 


HYACINTH  ROOTS. 

Those  of  the  choice  kinds,  which  were  put  oy  to 
dry,  should  now,  if  perfectly  ripened,  be  wrapped 
separately  in  absorbent  paper,  and  placed  on  shelves 
or  in  boxes,  where  they  may  have  such  circulation 
of  dry  air  as  will  prevent  them  from  decaying.  It 
has  lately  been  advanced  that  bulbs  should  not  be 
taken  up  at  all,  except  to  remove  offsets,  and  to  make 
their  beds.  Nature  seems  to  suggest  this. 


SEEDLINGS. 


Prick  out,  six  inches  asunder,  the  seedling  Peren- 
nials and  Biennials  which  were  sown  in  the  spring 
months. 


CARE  OF  FLOWERING  PLANTS. 

Stake  and  tie  up  all  your  annual  flowers,  many  of 
which  will  suffer  wofully  if  unsupported;  and  as  soon 
as  any  flowers  have  ceased  blowing,  cut  off  their 
stalks  and  decayed  leaves. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE. 

"  Who  heaps  her  basket  with  the  flowers 
And  leaves,  'till  they  can  hold  no  more." 

Form  baskets  or  clumps  of  the  most  showy  green- 
house plants,  (if  you  do  not  prefer  the  rock-work 
previously  directed,)  turned  out  of  their  receptacles, 
it 


122  JUNE. 

into  the  open  ground.  These  will  often  display  per- 
fections which  they  conceal  when  confined  within 
the  narrow  boundary  of  a  pot ;  but  to  avoid  risk, 
you  should  devote  to  this  experimental  purpose,  only 
such  as  are  of  easy  propagation  and  quick  growth, 
and  such  as  can  readily  be  replaced.  Some  of  those 
best  adapted  to  this  purpose  are  Pelargoniums  and 
Geraniums,  Heliotropiums,  Calceolarias,  Fuchsias, 
Salvias,  Verbenas,  Lotus,  Lychnis,  Aurantia,  Mimu- 
lus,  Jacobea  Lily,  Cinerarias,  Malvias,  Bouvardia, 
Maurandia,  Barclayana,  Tropaeolum,  Polygalis,  Me- 
Jaleucas,  Arctotis,  Alonsoa,  Ficoides,  Schizanthus, 
&c.  &c. ;  all  these  will  thrive  in  any  ordinary  gar- 
den soil,  and  if  tastefully  disposed,  will  produce  a 
very  brilliant  effect.  The  Pelargoniums  alone,  will 
in  themselves,  show  an  infinite  variety  of  colors,  as 
they  are  extremely  numerous.  Indeed,  where  the 
collection  of  plants  is  considerable,  it  is  no  easy  mat- 
ter, at  all  times,  to  find  room  for  them ;  and  therefore 
the  more  dwarfish  and  neatest  should  be  preserved 
in  the  green-house,  while  those  of  larger  dimensions 
occupy  halls,  hot-beds,  and  spare  rooms  ;  with  the 

Erecaution  of  preserving  them  through  the  winter 
•om  frost  and  continued  damp,  and  watering  them 
with  moderation  and  regularity,  they  may  present 
at  this  season  a  very  healthy  appearance.  Of  all  the 
showy  sorts  mentioned,  it  is  difficult  to  make  a  selec- 
tion. I  must,  however,  particularize  some :  the  Sal- 
via  fulgens,  and  the  Verbena  melindris  :  the  former 
is  a  strong  growing  plant,  from  three  to  four  feet  in 
height,  the  latter  an  humble  spreading  one,  not  more 
than  six  inches  high ;  both  of  them,  throughout  the 
season,  are  clothed  with  spikes  or  heads  of  scarlet 
flower  of  the  richest  hue.  Then  there  are  the  Sal- 
via  chamcedryoides,  of  a  beautiful  sky  blue ;  Lo- 
belia gracilis,  blue  ;  Alonsoa,  .scarlet ;  Bouvardia, 


JUNE.  123 

crimson ;  Poly  gala,  purple  and  white  ;  Lotus,  rich 
brown  ;  Mimulus,  yellow  ;  and  Tropaeolum,  yellow, 
or  orange,  or  dark  brown — all  in  perpetual  bloom 
from  one  end  of  the  season  to  the  other.  In  this 
assemblage,  we  have  a  multiplicity  of  lovely  forms, 
arrayed  in  the  most  exquisite  vesture,  and  fragrant 
with  the  most  delicious  perfumes : 

"  And  what  a  wilderness  of  flowers ! 
It  seems,  as  though  from  all  the  bowers, 
And  fairest  fields  of  all  the  year, 
The  mingled  spoil  were  scattered  here." 

"  Whether  they  are  blended  or  arranged,  softened 
or  contrasted,  they  are  manifestly  under  the  conduct 
of  a  taste  that  never  mistakes,  a  felicity  that  never 
falls  short  of  it,  the  very  perfection  of  elegance. 
Fine,  inimitably  fine,  is  the  texture  of  the  web  on 
which  these  shining  treasures  are  displayed.  What 
are  the  labors  of  the  Persian  looms,  or  the  boasted 
commodities  of  Brussels,  compared  with  these  curi- 
ous manufactures  of  nature  ?  Compared  with  these, 
the  most  admired  chintzes  lose  their  reputation;  even 
superfine  cambrics  appear  coarse  as  canvass  in  their 
presence." 


ROSES, 

Stake  standard  Roses,  and  bud  them ;  they  will 
take  through  the  summer,  while  the  bark  rises;  those 
which  are  budded  now  or  in  the  preceding  month,  if 
headed  down,  will  shoot  the  same  year.  Clear  off 
suckers  from  the  roots. 

The  mode  of  budding,  by  which  to  insure  the 
shooting  in  the  same  season,  is  to  make  the  cross- 
cut below  the  insertion  of  the  bud,  and  to  bring  the 
bark  of  the  bud  itself  in  contact  with  the  bark  of  the 
stem  on  which  you  have  placed  it.  This  method, 


124  JUNE. 

by  uniting  the  two  barks,  combines  the  advantages 
of  grafting  with  those  of  budding.  It  is  not  essen- 
tially necessary  to  take  the  wood  out  of  the  buds  of 
Roses,  which  it  is  sometimes  difficult  to  do. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

Take  cuttings  or  layers  of  the  plants  first  enume- 
rated, (excepting  the  annual  plants,  and  the  Jacobea 
Lily,  which  is  propagated  by  offsets,)  which  are  easily 
propagated  in  this  way.  Cuttings  of  most  other 
green-house  plants  may  also  now  be  made,  though 
an  earlier  period  would  have  been  better,  in  order 
to  have  the  plants  strong  before  the  winter.  The 
herbaceous  sorts  to  be  planted  in  light  loam,  with 
mild  heat,  and  under  shade  ;  the  woody,  in  fine  sand, 
under  glasses ;  they  should  be  of  the  same  year's 
growth,  cut  at  a  joint,  kept  moderately  moist,  and 
also  shaded  from  the  sun. 

Plant  cuttings  of  Rockets  and  double  scarlet  Lych- 
nis, when  done  flowering — the  latter  to  be  placed 
under  a  cap-glass. 

This  is  a  good  time  for  taking  cuttings  of  Myrtles, 
which  should  be  planted  in  light  rich  earth ;  shade 
and  water  them  until  they  shall  have  rooted.  Ge- 
raniums, and  other  shrubby  Exotics,  are  to  be  treated 
in  the  same  manner.  Transplant  into  larger  pots 
the  seedlings  raised  in  the  spring,  and  put  the  very 
tender  ones  into  fresh  hot-beds ;  those  which  are  less 
delicate,  will  only  require  to  be  shaded,  and  sheltered 
under  glass  until  they  root. 

Take  care  to  give  plenty  of  air  to  the  green-house, 
and  to  shade  the  plants  during  strong  sunshine. 


JUNE.  125 


SHRUBS. 

Propagate  all  shrubs,  (Roses  included,)  which  re- 
quire such  process,  by  layering  in  the  young  wood 
either  tongued  or  notched.  Plant  out  as  creepers, 
blue  and  purple  Maurandias,  Lithospermum,  Orange 
Ecremocarpus,  all  of  which  are  free  growers,  and 
highly  ornamental ;  they  may  be  raised  by  cuttings 
or  by  seed,  which  they  yield  in  great  abundance. 


PRINCIPAL  BULBS  IN  FLOWER 

Pancratium*  maritimum,  Iris,  Tigridia  pavonia, 
Iris  alata,  Iris  xiphium,  Iris  xiphoides,  Gladiolus 
byzantinus,  Gladiolus  communis,  Gladiolus  carneus, 
Gladiolus  tenuis,  Gladiolus  imbricatus,  Fritillaria 
messanensis,  Fritillaria  lusitanica. 


PRINCIPAL  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS  IN  FLOWER. 

Pinks,  Abyssinian  and  Bracteate  Poppies,  Lychnis, 
Aconites,  Flag  Iris,  and  other  varieties ;  Sweet 
Woodroof, grass-leaved  Spiderwort,  Perennial  Lark- 
spur, Geraniums,  Virginian  Rhexia,  Potentillas ;  a 
variety  of  Peonies,  Melissa  grandiflora,  Melittis 
melysophilum,  Iberis  (candytuft)  sempervivens,  Ibe- 
ris  tenoreana,  Perennial  Lupines,  Mignonette. 


SHRUBS  IN  FLOWER. 

Roses,  Bodleia  Globosa ;  most  of  the  American 
plants,  viz.  Rhododendrons,  Azaleas,  &c.,  (if  the 

*  The  Pancratium  is  really  tuberous,  as  is  also  the  Autumn 
Crocus ;  but  they  are  placed  among  the  bulbs  by  Loudon. 
11* 


JUNE. 


weather  be  cool  ;)  Cistus  or  Rock  Roses,  (half-hardy 
plants,)  Chinese  and  American  Magnolias. 


Observations  on  some  of  the  Flowers  and  Shrubs  now 
in  Blossom. 

TIGER  FLOWER,   (TIGRIDIA.) 

"Emblem  of  human  pride,  that  fades  away; 
Of  earthly  joys,  that  bloom  but  to  decay." 

This  flower  critically  corresponds  with  its  motto; 
it  blossoms  but  for  a  few  hours,  and  is  analagous  to 
the  ephemeral  insects  which  are  born  but  to  die. 
However,  it  presents  a  constant  succession  of  flowers 
during  the  warm  months  of  the  year.  Its  vegetating 
process  is  singularly  rapid ;  in  the  course  of  a  few 
hours,  the  flower  perfects  all  the  functions  which 
nature  designed  it  to  perform,  and  contrary  to  the 
habit  of  other  blowers,  it  expands  by  night. 


GERANIUM. 
"  Geranium  boasts  her  crimson  honors." 

The  Geraniums  are  as  remarkable  for  their  beauty 
as  for  the  facility  with  which  hybrid  varieties  are 
produced  among  them.  They  are  the  most  distin- 
guished ornaments  of  the  green-house — some  of  the 
Pelargoniums  displaying  a  brilliancy  and  depth  of 
coloring  scarcely  to  be  equalled  by  any  of  the  other 
Exotics.  The  Geranium  is  a  native  of  the  northern, 
and  the  Pelargonium  of  the  southern  hemisphere. 
They  are  easy  of  culture ;  thriving  in  the  wrarm 
borders  of  the  garden  during  the  summer  and  au- 
tumnal months.  Cuttings  of  these  plants  strike  with 


JUNE. 


127 


facility  on  a  gentle  hot-bed,  and  may  be  made  any 
time  during  the  spring  or  beginning  of  summer. 
When  rooted,  they  should  be  potted  in  a  compost 
of  equal  parts  of  rich  earth,  rotten  dung,  and  leaf- 
mould,  well  sifted  and  incorporated  together ;  and 
if  properly  attended  to,  they  will  flower  strongly  the 
next  spring.  New  varieties  are  obtained  from  seed, 
which  should  be  sown  in  a  rich  light  soil,  and  very 
thinly  covered,  or  the  seeds  will  rot ;  when  the  plants 
are  of  sufficient  size,  they  may  be  potted  and  treated 
as  the  cuttings. 

Among  the  following  are  some  of  the  finest  va- 
rieties : — 


Anna  Boleyn, 

Fulgens, 

Pavoninum, 

Ardens, 

Gowerii, 

Phaeniceum, 

Ardescens, 

Gowia  Superba, 

Purum, 

Atrosan  i^uineum, 
Atropurpureum, 

Grenvillianum, 
Grandiflorum, 

Gtueen  of  Scots, 
Ctueen  Adelaide, 

Baileyanum, 

Harvvoodiae, 

Russellianum, 

Bakerianum, 

Hoareanum, 

Richianum, 

Barclayanum, 

Humei, 

Robin  sonii, 

Brownii, 

Husseyanum, 

Saundersii, 

Boyleae, 

Incanescens, 

Scottii, 

Carnescens, 

Incarnatum, 

Scintillans, 

C  ary  ophyllaceum, 

Imperiale, 

Selectum, 

Charlwoodii, 

Jenkinsoni, 

Semouriae, 

Clintoniae, 

Kingii, 

Smithianum, 

Colvillii, 

Lambertii, 

Smithii, 

Corruscans, 

Latilobum, 

Spectabile, 

Cosmianum, 

Leghkeckiee, 

Stapletonii, 

C  men  turn, 

Lousadianum, 

Stewartii, 

Davyanum, 

Martanthon, 

Striatum, 

Dennisianum, 

Megalanthon, 

Scinnotii, 

Devere, 

Mostymoe, 

Thynneo3, 

Dobreeanum, 

Murrayanum, 

Tibitsianum, 

Electum, 

Nairnii, 

Torrefactum, 

Exunium, 

Newshamianum, 

Vandesise, 

Elegans, 

Notatum, 

Varium, 

Elatum, 

Optabile, 

Verecundum, 

Fosterianum, 

Ornatum, 

Villosum, 

Fair  Maid  of  Perth, 

Palkii, 

Wellsianum, 

Formosum, 

Potteri, 

Youngii, 

Floridum, 

Princeanum, 

Yeatmanianum. 

128  JUNE. 


PINKS. 

"  I  am  the  very  pink  of  courtesy." 

The  Pink  is,  unquestionably,  a  very  lady-like 
flower,  blossoming  in  this  month.  The  Paisley 
florists  have  brought  it  to  the  highest  degree  of  per- 
fection ;  they  exhibit  seventy  or  eighty  choice  va- 
rieties, some  of  them  almost  equal  to  the  Carnation, 
and  have  more  than  three  hundred  kinds  altogether. 
The  criterion  of  a  fine  pink  may  be  thus  given  : — 

A  fine  Pink  should  have  the  stem  erect,  and  from 
ten  to  fourteen  inches  high,  or  more,  according  to 
the  vigor  and  habit  of  the  plant,  and  of  sufficient 
strength  to  support  the  blossoms  erect.  The  calyx, 
or  flower-cup,  should  be  of  a  long  rather  than  round 
form,  and  strong  enough  to  support  the  petals  with- 
out bursting,  which  is  a  capital  defect,  though  the 
flowers  be  perfect  in  other  respects.  The  petals 
should  either  be  very  finely  fringed  or  perfectly  rose- 
leaved,  and  absolutely  free  from  coarse  deep  inden- 
tations. The  outer  or  guard  leaves  should  have 
sufficient  firmness  of  texture  to  maintain  themselves 
horizontally,  and  support  the  interior  petals,  which 
ought  not  to  be  too  crowded,  but  arranged  with  regu- 
larity and  symmetry.  The  coloring  of  a  laced  Pink 
should  extend  from  the  base,  round  the  edge  of  each 
petal,  in  a  clear,  well-defined  manner,  and  whatever 
be  the  hue,  present  a  lively  and  rich  appearance.  If 
the  flower  be  without  the  lace,  or  ornamental  bor- 
dering, the  eye  or  centre  must  be  rich  and  distinctly 
marked,  and  finely  contrasted  with  the  snowy  white- 
ness of  the  outer  portion  of  the  petals.  The  large 
flowers  are  more  valued,  but  are  also  more  apt  to 
burst  their  flower-cups,  (and  in  consequence  to  lose 
their  symmetry  of  form,)  than  the  small ;  but  the 


JUNE.  129 

larger  that  the  perfect  flowers  can  be  obtained,  the 
more  esteemed  are  they ;  this,  however,  is  a  mere 
matter  of  taste,  many  persons  preferring  the  smaller, 
which  are  generally  more  perfect  and  elegant. 
I  shall  here  add  the  names  of  a  few  fine  Pinks: — 
Bow's  Luster,  Bow's  Suwarrow,  Davy's  Eclipse, 
Forster's  William  IV.,  Barrat's  Conqueror,  Bray's 
Waterloo,  Faulkner's  Duke  of  Clarence,  Faulkner's 
Diadem,  Davy's  Duchess  of  Devonshire,  Clarke's 
Smolensko,  Kean's  Wellington,  Pottecary's  Eclipse, 
Pitman's  Miss  Cooper,  Clarke's  Prince  Coburg,  Da- 
vy's Lady  Durham,  Langford's  Sir  Francis  Burdett, 
Davy's  Shannon,  Pitman's  Louisa. 


THE  POPPY, 

" that  an  opiate  dew 

Concealest  beneath  thy  scarlet  vest," 

Is  too  rank  for  a  very  limited  garden.  The 
great  double  French  Poppy  is,  however,  desirable 
in  extensive  gardens  and  shrubberies ;  but  in  any 
garden,  the  small  French  double  Poppy,  (paper- 
leaved,)  of  various  colors,  and  resembling  the  Ra- 
nunculus, and  the  Abyssinian,  recently  introduced, 
when  kept  within  proper  bounds,  are  striking  orna- 
ments. The  bracteate  Poppy  is  a  perennial,  and 
may  be  propagated  either  by  parting  the  roots  in 
March,  or  by  seed ;  if  by  the  latter  mode,  the  seed 
should  be  sown  in  autumn,  for  if  sown  in  spring, 
the  plants  would  run  to  flower  from  the  heat  of  the 
weather,  before  they  have  acquired  sufficient  strength 
for  bearing. 

The  French  and  Abyssinian  Poppies  are  annual, 
and  should  be  raised  from  seed  sown  in  April.  The 


130  JUNE 

latter  requires  the  aid  of  a  hot-bed.  From  one  of 
the  common  varieties  of  the  Poppy,  cultivated  ex- 
tensively in  Turkey  for  the  purpose,  "  a  balm  that 
gods  have  made  for  care,"  and  known  to  men  by 
the  name  of  opium,  is  extracted. 


MIGNONETTE. 


the  fragrant  weed, 


The  Frenchman's  darling." 

This  sweet  flower,  originally  from  Africa,  (Reseda 
odorata,)  is  usually  an  annual,  but  if  protected  from 
frost,  it  will  flower  most  of  the  year ;  if  cut  down 
in  September,  it  will  blossom  again  in  the  following 
spring.  There  is  a  rare  kind,  peculiarly  fragrant, 
(a  shrubby  variety,  and  properly  an  inmate  of  the 
green-house,)  which  flowers  in  winter,  and  is  there- 
fore most  desirable  in  the  drawing-room. 


ROSES. 

like  the  season's  rose, 
The  flowret  of  a  hundred  leaves  j 


Expanding,  while  the  dew-fall  flows, 
And  every  leaf  its 


if  its  balm  receives." 


The  general  bloom  of  Roses  takes  place  in  this 
month.  To  enter  into  a  detail  of  varieties,  which 
already  extend  to  the  prodigious  number  of  twelve 
hundred,  and  are  every  day  increasing,  will  hardly 
be  expected  from  me.  We  may  reckon  about  two 
hundred  of  very  distinct  perfections,  and  of  every 
shade,  from  pure  white  to  the  deepest  crimson. — 
Some  are  in  bloom  every  month  of  the  year,  varying 


JUNE.  131 

in  height  from  six  inches  (one  of  these  would  fit  in  a 
teacup)  to  six  feet ;  well  may  it  be  called  the  "Queen 
of  the  garden," — its  reign  is  perpetual — its  claim  un- 
contested ;  it  has  possession  of  every  part  of  the 
globe,  from  the  "  Indus  to  the  Pole."  We  have  our 
own  peculiar  Rose  in  this  country,  the  Rosa  hibernica, 
which,  though  it  possesses  the  valuable  properties  of 
scent  and  durability  of  flower,  has  not  been  improved 
by  our  florists — more  shame  to  them.  The  Scotch 
have  obtained  two  hundred  varieties  of  their  Rose, 
(Rosa  spinosissima,)  which  grows  wild  also  on  our 
hills  and  coasts.  These  varieties  (some  of  them 
very  beautiful)  have  been  obtained  by  transplanting 
some  of  them  with  the  ordinary  sorts,  with  which 
they  have  hybridized,  and  from  the  seeds  all  these 
varieties  have  sprung  up.  Some  of  the  lately-intro- 
duced varieties  partake  of  the  nature  of  the  ever- 
blossoming  Rose,  (the  Chinese,  or  Rosa  sinensis,) 
being  Hybrids  from  it,  and  flowering  at  several 
seasons. 


ROCK  ROSE,   (OR  CISTUS.) 

"  Fair  Cista,  rival  of  the  rosy  dawn." 

The  Cistus  has  great  and  beautiful  varieties ;  its 
flowers  are  very  fugacious,  but  happily,  constant  in 
succession ;  it  is  properly  a  half-hardy  shrub,  and 
requires  a  warm  aspect. 


MAGNOLIA, 

"Lets  the  delicious  secret  out, 
To  eVry  breeze  that  roams  about." 

The  American  Magnolia  is  superb,  and  must  have 
a  sunny  position.      The  Magnolia  glauca  exhales 


132 


JtTNE. 


delicious  fragrance ;  a  single  plant  is  sufficient  to 
perfume  a  moderately-sized  garden !  This  succeeds 
best  in  peat  soil,  and  requires  moisture. 


LIRIODENDRON  TULIPIFERA. 

TULIP-TREE. 

This  magnificent  tree,  of  which  the  above  is  a  cor- 
rect drawing,  is  one  of  the  most  superb  of  the  tem- 
perate zones:  equally  remarkable  for  its  great  height 
and  beautiful  foliage,  its  superb  flowers,  and  its  hand- 
some wood,  which  last  is  used  for  a  variety  of  use- 
ful purposes,  under  the  name  of  white  poplar,  white" 
wood,  tulip-tree  wood,  &c. 

The  term  Liriodendron  is  taken  from  two  Greek 
words,  and  signifies  the  lily-tree,  from  the  resem- 
blance of  its  flowers  to  those  of  a  lily  or  tulip.  It 
is  found  throughout  the  forests  of  the  'United  States 
and  is  very  easily  cultivated.  It  grows  from  sixty 
to  one  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  is  said  to  have 
been  seen  one  hundred  and  forty  feet  high  and  seven 
feet  in  diameter,  and  is  in  flower  during  the  months 
of  June  and  July. 


LYCHNIS. 

Of  this  there  are  many  varieties,  among  which 
Campions,  and  white  flowering  broad-leaved,  and 
double  Catchfly,  are  classed.  The  double  or  scarlet 
Lychnis  (the  latter  called  Jerusalem  moss)  may  be 
propagated  by  seed,  by  parting  the  roots,  or  still 
better,  by  cuttings  of  the  side  shoots  without  flowers, 
at  the  third  or  fourth  joints,  and  sunk  in  earth  half- 
way between  the  second  and  third  joint.  This  plant 
will  grow  in  almost  any  soil,  but  succeeds  best  in  a 


..Lirodendrvn 

Tulip,  Tree. 


JUNE 


loamy  ground  and  an  exposed  situation.  The  single 
German  Catchfly,  Lobels,  Spanish  Campion,  and 
some  other  varieties,  are  raised  from  seed  as  well  as* 
from  the  roots  and  cuttings,  and  the  seeds,  if  not  pre- 
viously sown,  should  now  be  committed  to  the  earth. 


ROUTINE  WORK— WATERING. 

This  is  very  essential  during  this  usually  very  hot 
and  dry  month.  Observe,  however,  to  water  either 
very  early  in  the  morning  or  late  in  the  evening. 
What  is  called  hard  water  is  the  least  fit  for  this 
purpose :  the  best  is  that  which  is  supplied  by  ponds  ! 
If  you  are  obliged  to  use  well-water,  expose  it  two 
or  three  days  to  the  sun  and  air  before  you  make 
use  of  it. 


WEEDING,  &c. 

There  is  no  season  in  which  weeds  grow  so  rapidly 
and  in  such  profusion  as  during  this  month ;  the  hoe 
and  finger,  or  weeding  sprong,  must  therefore  be 
continually  employed  to  preserve  the  degree  of  neat- 
ness which  should  prevail.  Snails  and  slugs  will 
also  give  trouble,  and  these  must  be  picked  off  or 
killed  by  lime,  salt  solutions,  &c. ;  the  early  morn- 
ing and  late  evening  hours,  and  those  which  imme- 
diately succeed  showers,  are  their  favorite  ones  for 
promenading. 


GRASS-WALKS,  AND  GRASS-PLOTS. 

These  must  be  mown  now,  and  during  the  other 
summer  months,  every  week,  or  at  least  once  in  a 
fortnight,  and  rolled  frequently. 
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MONTHLY  CALENDAR. 


JULY. 


Take  up  HYACINTHS  and  TULIPS,  if  not  done  before. 

Take  up  also  RANUNCULUS  and  ANEMONE  roots. 

Plant  out  seedling  AURICULAS. 

Layer  CARNATIONS  and  PINKS,  or  take  pipings  of  them. 

Sow  MIGNONETTE  and  Brompton  Stock  Seeds. 

Layer  and  bud  ROSES. 

Inoculate  JASMINES  and  other  flowering  shrubs. 

Increase  CHINESE  CHRYSANTHEMUMS,  by  cuttings  and  suckers. 

Plant  cuttings  of  DAHLIAS,  DOUBLE  ROCKETS,  and  SCARLET 
LYCHNIS. 


JULY. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  FLOWER-GARDEN. 

Take  up  those  bulbous  roots  which  have  ceased 
flowering — Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Martagon  Lilies,  and 
such  bulbous  Irises  as  are  out  of  flower.  Ranun- 
culus and  Anemone  roots,  which  have  now  lost  their 
foliage,  may  also  be  taken  up. 


SEEDLING  AURICULAS. 

Which  came  up  last  spring,  should  now  (if  not 
before  done)  be  potted,  and  placed  in  a  shady  situ- 
ation, watered  moderately  and  kept  free  from  snails 
and  slugs. 


.CARNATIONS  AND  PINKS. 

This  is  still  a  good  season  for  propagating  these 
charming  flowers  by  either  of  the  modes  directed 
in  June,  but  this  work  should  not  be  postponed  to 
an  advanced  period  of  the  month.  As  soon  as  the 
shoots  are  strong  enough  to  layer  down,  let  them 
be  put  out. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month  and  beginning  of 
August  is  the  usual  season  for  layering  Carnations, 
which,  however,  may  be  done  earlier,  if  the  plants 
It* 


138  JULY. 

are  sufficiently  advanced  in  growth  ;  the  new  plants 
from  those  early  layers  will  be  more  vigorous,  and 
better  able  to  endure  the  severity  of  winter,  than 
those  of  a  later  season.  In  detaching  them,  it  will 
be  necessary  to  cut  them  close  under  the  joint  from 
which  the  root  has  been  produced,  and  from  which 
the  tongue  had  in  the  first  instance  been  cut ;  the 
young  plants  may  now  be  potted,  and  with  the  shel* 
ter  of  a  frame,  will  in  a  few  days  be  sufficiently 
established  to  bear  exposure  in  the  open  air.  In  the 
space  of  a  few  weeks  it  will  be  found  that  layers 
thus  treated,  will  have  formed  a  quantity  of  root 
from  the  other  half  of  the  joint,  where  they  had  been 
attached  to  the  parent  plant ;  and  they  will  not  only 
be  equally  sound  and  healthy,  but  much  more  luxu- 
riant than  plants  produced  by  piping. 

The  operation  of  layering  is  very  simple,  and  is 
done  by  first  stripping  the  leaves  from  the  second 
or  third  joint  of  the  intended  layer,  then  introducing 
the  blade  of  a  very  sharp  penknife  at  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  inch  under  the  joint,  and  cutting  halfway 
through  the  layer  up  to  the  joint,  but  not  into  it ; 
the  knife  is  then  to  be  drawn  out,  and  the  tongue 
so  produced,  cut  away  neatly  under  the  joint,  but 
so  as  not  to  wound  it,  or  the  layer  will  not  root. 
The  future  fibres  or  roots  of  the  new  plant  proceed 
from  the  joint  itself,  therefore  any  injury  to  it  will 
prevent  their  formation.  The  old  mode  of  cutting 
up  through  the  joint  is  not  only  useless  but  injurious, 
causing  an  unsoundness  and  canker,*  which,  al- 
though the  layers  may  have  rooted,  will  probably 
destroy  them  during  the  winter ;  the  layers  are  then 
to  be  pegged  down,  (with  care  not  to  crack  them 

*  For  this  reason,  plants  produced  by  piping  are  preferred,  being 
more  healthy  and  sound. . 


JULY.        >..-.,  199 

at  their  junction  with  the  mother  plant,)  and  thinly 
covered  with  light  rich  compost,  for  if  they  are 
deeply  buried,  they  root  badly  and  with  difficulty, 
the  access  of  air  being  necessary  to  promote  the 
free  production  of  fibres :  the  points  of  the  leaves 
of  the  layers  must  be  preserved  uninjured,  and  not 
cut  off  or  shortened,  as  is  the  usual  practice,  or  you 
will  deprive  the  plant  of  a  necessary  means  of 
support,  the  leaves  of  plants  being  as  essential  to 
their  vitality  as  lungs  are  to  animals.  In  five  or  six 
weeks  from  the  formation  of  your  layers,  they  will 
be  rooted,  and  may  be  removed  from  their  parent 
stems. 

The  Carnation  blossoms  are  now  advancing  fast 
to  maturity  ;  those  which  are  double  and  much  in- 
clined to  burst,  should  have  the  flower-pods  either 
tied  neatly  with  bass  mat,  previously  wetted,  or 
supported  by  circular  cards,  with  holes  punched  in 
the  centres,  to  fit  the  pods  ;  and  these  should  be  cut 
(with  a  very  sharp  penknife)  through  each  of  their 
divisions  to  the  base,  taking  care  not  to  injure  the 
petals.  This  process  permits  the  flowers  to  expand 
evenly,  and  the  cards  not  only  preserve  the  blossoms 
in  their  natural  form,  but  also  aid  materially  in 
increasing  the  duration  of  the  bloom.  The  Carna- 
tions, if  in  beds  in  the  open  ground,  and  unprotected 
by  canvass  or  other  substantial  covering,  should  have 
their  blossoms  guarded  from  the  sun  and  rain,  by 
umbrella-shaped  pasteboard  shades,  which  may  be 
attached  to  the  stakes  supporting  the  blossoms ;  but 
if  this  cannot  be  conveniently  done,  they  should  be 
fixed  to  pieces  of  slit,  lath,  placed  in  the  ground  in 
the  most  advantageous  positions  to  afford  shelter  to 
the  blossoms. 


140  JULY. 


MIGNONETTE. 

If  you  desire  to  have  Mignonette  in  flower  at 
the  latter  part  of  the  floral  season,  you  ought  to 
sow  it  now. 


ROSES— JASMINES. 

The  layering  and  budding  of  Roses  and  other 
shrubs  may  now  be  performed.  Some  species  of 
the  Rose  do  not  freely  yield  suckers,  and  must 
therefore  be  propagated  by  layers. 

The  stocks  for  budding  may  be  taken  from  the 
suckers  of  the  most  common  kinds.  The  common 
dog-brier,  from  its  superior  vigor,  is  the  most  desi- 
rable stock.  Jasmines  are  principally  propagated 
by  budding,  and  the  common  white  kind  is  the  most 
usual  stock. 


PROPAGATION  OF  CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

The  suckers  which  at  this  season  have  attained 
the  height  of  twelve  or  more  inches,  may  now  be 
parted  and  planted  in  separate  pots,  in  a  compost 
of  equal  parts  of  leaf  mould,  garden  soil,  and  rotten 
dung ;  they  will  make  fine  blooming  plants  for  No- 
vember or  December  :  when  they  are  strongly  root- 
ed, cut  away  the  centre  or  leading  shoot,  to  let  the 
plants  push  out  side  shoots,  and  form  a  bushy  and 
well-shaped  head,  while  they  at  the  same  time  pre- 
serve the  dwarf  size,  which  is  desirable,  if  the  plants 
are  grown  in  pots. 

Cuttings  rooted  early  in  the  month,  with  a  little 
bottom  heat,  will  also  make  pretty  dwarf  growing 
plants  to  flower  in  autumn. 


JULY, 


TREATMENT  OF  DAHLIAS. 


141 


These  are  now  coming  into  flower,  and  will  re- 
quire the  support  of  hoops,  or  of  the  triangular  sticks 
described  in  the  preceding  month. 

The  general  work  of  this  month  consists  princi- 
pally in  watering  and  tying  up  plants,  and  in  weed- 
ing. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

Syringe  and  water  Camellias  and  Oranges  fre- 
quently, and  shade  them  from  hot  sun.  * 

Plants  potted  in  peat,  (as  are  most  of  our  Cape 
and  Australian  ones,)  should  be  carefully  examined 
every  day,  lest  they  should  become  too  dry,  for  peat 
is  so  little  retentive  of  moisture,  that  they  will  re- 
quire frequent  watering. 

Take  cuttings  of  your  green-house  plants,  if  you 
have  not  taken  a  sufficient  supply  in  June,  and  plant 
them  in  a  bed,  shaded  during  the  day  by  the  hoops 
and  coverings  already  recommended. 

The  very  tender  succulent  ones  should  have  a  mild 
hot-bed,  but  all  the  Geraniums,  Myrtles,  Jacobeas, 
and  Cape  shrubs,  will  freely  root  themselves  in  a  bed 
of  rich  earth  in  open  air ;  exposure  to  nocturnal 
dews  in  either  case  is  desirable. 

Remove  insects  from  the  leaves,  which  are  now 
peculiarly  liable  to  injury  from  them. 

Give  abundant  air  to  the  green-house. 

Shift  seedlings  according  as  their  growth  re- 
quires it,  from  smaller  to  larger  pots ;  water  and 
shade  them,  until  they  have  rooted. 


142  JULY. 


EXOTIC  SEEDS. 

Gather  and  save  seeds  as  they  become  ripe,  and 
spread  them  in  dry  places  to  harden ;  afterwards 
preserve  them  in  their  pods. 


THE  MOST  ORNAMENTAL  HERBACEOUS 
PLANTS  IN  FLOWER. 

Double  Rose  Campion,  Hollyhocks,  Spiderwort, 
Campanulas,  Scarlet  Chelone,  Blue  Catananche, 
Dragon  Head,  Rudbeckias,  Coreopsis,  Gentian, 
Erynga,  Spiraea  Trifoliata,  Perennial  Sunflower, 
Hirherocalis,  Iris,  Lilies,  (White,  Orange,  and  Mar- 
tagon,)  Lilium  Japoaicum,  Verabrum,  Phlox,  (of  va- 
rious sorts,)  Escholtzia,  Cardinal  Flower,  Monkey 
Flower,  ^Enothera,  Monarda,  Potentilla  or  Cinque- 
foil,  Pentstemon,  Feather-Grass,  Verbascum,  Ger- 
man Catchfly,  Scarlet  Lychnis,  Scarlet  Geum,  Pe- 
rennial Larkspur,  Blue  Catenanche,  Dahlia,  Meny- 
anthes,  Campanula  pyramidalis,  Gladiolus  cardinalis, 
Nolana,  Lupinus,  Polyphyllus,  Potentilla,  Lathyrus 
grandiflorus,  Sea  Holly,  Water  Lily,  Ixia,  Stapelia, 
Gladiolus  psittacinus. 


ORNAMENTAL  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS  IN 
FLOWER. 

Sensitive  Plant,  Nerium  splendens,  Escholtzia 
californica,  many  Ericas,  Acacia,  Wax  Plant, 
(Haya  carnosa,)  Double  Red  and  Double  White 
Lily,  African  Lily,  Agapanthus,  Begonia,  Evansiana, 


JJJLY.  143 

Commelina,  Gardenia,  Melaleuca,  Neurumbergia 
Phoenicia,  Double  Pomegranate,  Psidium  catleya- 
num,  Cape  Trumpet  Flower,  (Bignonia  capensis,) 
Tuoma  capensis,  Single  Oleander,  Double  Red  and 
White  Oleander,  Verbenum,  Fuchsia,  Calceolaria, 
Double  Nasturtium,  Metrosideros,  Jasmine,  Mela- 
leuca, Chironia,  Agapanthus,  Balsams,  Ice  Plant,  and 
the  whole  tribe  of  tender  Annuals. 


SHRUBS. 

Roses,*  Yellow  Broom,  Spanish  Broom,  Aristo- 
lochia,  (a  beautiful  climber,)  Azalia,  Rhododendron, 
American  Ceanothus,  Virginian  Ilex,  St.  John's 
Wort,'  Cytisus  capitalis.  Double  Bramble,  (white 
and  red,)  Lupine  tree,  Menziesia,  Myrtles,  Jas- 
mines, &c. 


CLIMBERS. 

Japan  and  Chinese  Honeysuckles,  Passion  Flower, 
Clematis,  Eccremorcarpus. 

*  Although  the  greater  part  of  the  Rose  tribe  flowers  has  passed 
away  with  the  last  month,  there  are  many  varieties  of  the  Chinese, 
Bourbon,  Musk  and  Damask  species,  still  in  bloom. 


144  JULY. 

Observations  on  some  of  the  Plants  now  in  Flower. 


HOLLYHOCKS. 

"  How  high  his  haughty  honor  holds  his  head." 

Hollyhocks  are  too  tall,  and  require  too  much 
space  for  any  place  but  the  front  of  a  shrubbery  or 
a  spacious  border.  They  are,  however,  ornamental 
and  showy,  and  of  varied  hues.  Bees  are  said  to 
be  especially  fond  of  them. 

"  And  from  the  nectaries  of  Hollyhocks 
The  humble  bee,  e'en  till  he  faints,  will  sip." 


PERENNIAL    LARKSPUR, 

Or  Delphinum  grandiflorum,  is  a  superb  peren- 
nial Larkspur  bearing  spikes  of  brilliant  dark-blue 
double  flowers,  with  a  purplish  tinge.  No  other 
flower  presents  a  blue  of  equal  richness  and  splen- 
dor. This  plant,  which  is  held  in  high  estimation, 
is  a  native  of  Siberia,  and  of  easy  culture,  requiring 
little  more  than  common  care  to  produce  its  superb 
blossoms  in  luxuriance.  After  flowering,  it  dies 
to  the  root,  which  should  be  protected  during  the 
winter  season  from  too  much  wet,  and  particularly 
guarded  from  slugs  and  snails,  as  they  are  very 
destructive  to  it,  both  at  this  season  and  in  spring ; 
it  is  increased  by  dividing  the  roots  either  in  au- 
tumn or  early  in  spring.  This  plant  will  not  grow 
either  in  or  near  a  town,  the  smoke  quickly  destroy- 


JULY.  145 


ing  it.     The  proper  soil  is  a  mixture  of  peat  and 
loam,  with  a  little  very  rotten  dung. 


ESCHOLTZIA  CALIFORNICA 

Is  a  plant  of  late  introduction  to  the  flower-gar- 
den, and  one  of  its  most  showy  ornaments,  display- 
ing a  brilliant  succession  of  rich  yellow  colored 
flowers,  from  July  to  November,  and  is  found  to 
stand  our  winters  with  the  protection  of  a  light 
covering  of  straw  or  litter,  when  the  weather  hap- 
pens to  be  severe.  It  grows  luxuriantly  in  common 
garden  soil,  with  a  slight  admixture  of  leaf-mould, 
and  is  produced  from  seeds  sown  on  heat  in  April 
or  May ;  the  young  plants,  if  taken  care  of,  will 
flower  the  same  season. 


GLADIOLUS  CARDINALIS. 

This  is  one  of  the  Cape  bulbs,  yet  it  may  be 
flowered  in  the  open  air  in  this  country,  as  indeed 
may  be  most  of  the  African  Gladiola,  by  protecting 
them  with  a  covering  of  straw  during  me  winter 
months.  This  Gladiolus  displays  its  blood-colored 
blossoms,  which  are  very  beautiful,  during  this  and 
the  ensuing  month.  October  is  the  time  for  plant- 
ing the  bulbs,  seven  or  eight  inches  deep,  lest  frost 
should  reach  them.  They  require  a  peat  loam,  and 
a  moist  situation.  Many  pretty  hybridized  Gladioli 
have  lately  been  produced  from  seeds  of  the  differ- 
ent varieties.  The  seed,  if  sown  in  the  green-house 
in  November,  will  vegetate  strongly  in  the  following 

13 


146  JULY. 

spring,  and  the  young  bulbs  may  be  planted  in  the 
next  October,  to  flower  the  succeeding  year. 


POTENTILLA,  (CINQUE-FOIL.) 

The  varieties  of  this  plant  are  from  the  Nepaul 
country,  the  mountainous  parts  of  which  have  con- 
tributed many  beautiful  plants,  sufficiently  hardy  for 
our  flower  borders  ;  few  of  them  exceeding  the  Po- 
tentilla,  whose  flowers  are  crimson  and  purple.. 


IXIAS 

Are  bulbous  roots  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
of  the  same  rank  and  size  that  the  Crocus  is  here, 
but  much  more  varied  in  color :  a  mixture  of  peat 
and  sand  is  the  best  soil  for  them. 


STAPELIA. 

This  is  a  succulent  genus,  and  has  many  species: 
the  shape  and  appearance  of  the  flower  and  shoot 
are  singular :  one  species  has  a  very  disagreeable 
smell,  so  delightful,  however,  to  the  olfactory  nerves 
of  flies  and  maggots,  that  they  deposite  their  eggs, 
and  are  hatched, in  it: — not  desirable  for  the  boudoir. 


GLADIOLUS  PSITTACINUS, 

A  species  lately  introduced  among  us,  exhibiting 
flowers  of  the  richest  tints — Orange  ground  and 


JULY.  147 

Carmine  pencilled  streaks.     It  will  answer  in  a 
warm  border. 


NERVIUM  SPLENDENS 

Is  a  charming  green-house  plant,  bearing  panicles 
of  flowers,  each  as  large  and  as  double  as  a  small 
Rose  or  Carnation,  and  resembling  the  latter  in 
shape  :  it  flowers  during  the  greater  part  of  the  sea- 
son, but  requires  a  glass-heat  to  perfect  its  beauty. 


SENSITIVE  PLANT. 

"If  you  offer  to  handle  this  sensitive  plant,  she  immediately  takes 
an  alarm;  hastily  contracts  her  fibres;  and,  like  a  person  under 
apprehension  of  violence,  withdraws  from  your  finger  in  a  kind  of 
precipitate  disorder." 

The  Mimosa  sensitiva,  or  Sensitive  "Plant,  is  a 
native  of  Brazil,  and  cultivated  in  our  green-houses 
on  account  of  its  well-known  property  of  closing  its 
leaves,  and  dropping  the  leaf-stems,  when  touched 
or  removed  from  the  light.  It  is  well  known  that 
this  motion  depends  on  a  circular  swelling  at  the 
base  of  each  leaf-stem,  which  will,  if  cut  away  at 
the  under  part,  prevent  the  leaf  from  erecting  itself, 
and  if  the  contrary  side  is  removed,  the  leaf  cannot 
fall  down.  The  seed  of  these  plants  should  be  sown 
on  a  hot-bed  in  April,  and  when  sufficiently  grown, 
potted  in  a  compost  of  equal  parts  of  peat  and  gar- 
den mould,  and  placed  in  the  warmest  part  of  the 
green-house  or  bark  frame.  They  blossom  in  July 
and  August. 


148  JULY. 


ICE  PLANT. 

The  Mesembryanthemum  crystallinum,  or  Ice 
Plant,  is  a  curious  annual,  remarkable  only  for  the 
transparent  glandular  substances  thickly  distributed 
over  its  surface, resembling  frozen  dew-drops:  hence 
the  name  Ice  Plant.  This  plant  is  a  native  of  Greece, 
and  grows  freely  in  our  garden  borders,  during  the 
summer,  expanding  its  white  blossoms  in  the  months 
of  July  and  August.  It  may  be  raised  from  seed, 
sown  on  a  hot-bed  any  time  in  spring,  and  trans- 
planted to  the  borders  in  June  :  a  sandy  loam  is  the 
best  soil  for  it. 


BALSAMS. 

These,  when  double,  are  very  beautiful;  there 
are  many  varieties,  but  not  yet  so  defined  as  to  have 
acquired  many  distinguishing  names.  The  striped 
flowered  Balsams  are  most  in  esteem,  and  in  order 
to  produce  them,  great  care  must  be  taken  to  save 
the  seed  from  the  best  flowering  plants,  on  which 
no  plain  flower  should  be  suffered  to  remain. 


COXCOMBS. 

Coxcombs  have  been  recently  grown  to  a  very 
large  size  by  the  application  of  stimulating  manures 
and  continued  heat.  These  plants,  during  the  sum- 
mer, are  showy  ornaments  of  the  green-house,  but 
will  succeed  perfectly,  as  tender  annuals,  on  prepared 
beds  in  the  open  ground.  The  compost  should  be 


JULY.  149 

formed  of  two-thirds  rotten  stable  dung,  or  other 
strong  manure,  and  one-third  rich  mould,  placed 
full  eighteen  inches  thick  on  the  beds.  The  seeds  of 
the  Coxcomb  are  to  be  sown  on  a  hot-bed  in  April, 
where  the  young  plants  should  continue  until  the 
time  of  transplanting,  and  the  weaker  of  them  should 
be  thinned  out  as  they  advance  in  growth.  Towards 
the  middle  of  June,  if  the  weather  is  mild,  such  plants 
as  appear  with  large  flat  stems,  and  of  a  very  vigor- 
ous growth,  should  be  selected  for  being  placed  on 
the  beds,  in  which  they  should  be  planted  a  foot  and 
a  half  from  each  other,  and  watered ;  the  beds  should 
then  be  top-dressed  with  rotten  dung  well  sifted, 
and  spread  full  two  inches  thick  over  the  whole  sur- 
face :  the  plants  will  require  a  canvass  or  a  calico 
shade,  during  the  time  of  flowering ;  if  manure  in 
solution  is  applied,  it  will  prove  highly  advantageous 
in  increasing  the  size  and  heightening  the  color  of 
the  flowers.  Coxcombs  thus  managed  will  produce 
plants  of  two  feet  or  more  in  height,  and  flowers 
of  a  foot  or  sixteen  inches  in  extent :  the  beds  pre- 
senting, in  July  and  August,  a  splendid  assemblage 
of  gorgeous  flowers,  producing  a  noble  effect. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

These  plants  flower  during  a  great  portion  of  the 
year,  and  even  in  a  mild  winter  present  a  brilliant 
display,  if  trained  against  a  sunny  wall :  the  different 
kinds  should  be  well  intermixed  with  each  other. 
They  succeed  best  in  the  conservatory.  There 
are  forty  varieties  of  the  Chrysanthemum,  of  which- 
some  are  indeed  very  beautiful. 
13* 


150  JULY. 


MYRTLES. 

"  There  will  I  make  thee  beds  of  roses, 

With  a  thousand  fragrant  posies ; 
A  cap  of  flowers,  and  a  girdle, 

Embroidered  all  with  leaves  of  myrtle." 

The  Myrtles  are  pretty  half-hardy  evergreen 
shrubs,  and,  if  grown  in  sheltered  situations,  will, 
after  a  few  seasons,  become  almost  acclimated,  and 
particularly  the  large-leaved,  resist  the  generality  of 
our  winters.  In  a  moist  peaty  situation  near  the 
sea,  and  exposed  to  the  south,  they  will  grow  to  ten 
and  twelve  feet  in  height  or  more,  and  produce  a 
profusion  of  flowers  (Turing  the  autumn,  and  even 
a  portion  of  the  winter.  They  increase  freely  by 
cuttings  at  almost  any  season,  but  autumn  is  the 
best  time  for  propagation  ;  there  is  a  double  flower- 
ing variety  cultivated  chiefly  in  the  green-house  :  it 
is  much  inferior,  however,  to  the  single,  both  in  size 
and  appearance.  All  Myrtles  require  a  great  deal 
of  water. 


MONTHLY   CALENDAR. 


AUGUST. 


Transplant  the  rooted  layers  of  PINKS  and  SWEET  WILLIAMS,  and 
pot  such  as  were  layers  last  month  and  have  struck  root. 

Sow  TEN  WEEK  STOCK  for  spring  bloom,  and  MIGNONETTE  to 
flower  late  in  the  year. 

Sow  POLYANTHUS  seed ;  shift  choice  AURICULAS  into  fresh  earth. 

Take  up  the  bulbs  of  the  IRIS,  FRITTILLARY,MARTAGON,  CROWN 
IMPERIAL  and  PEONY,  if  an  increase  of  them  be  wanted. 

Plant  RANUNCULUSES  in  beds  or  pots,  to  blossom  in  November. 

Bud  CAMELLIAS,  ROSES,  DOUBLE  ALMONDS,  and  other  flowering 
shrubs. 

Plant  cuttings  of  CHRYSANTHEMUMS  in  pots. 

Plant  cuttings  of  GERANIUMS  and  other  soft-wooded  plants,  and 
pot  such  as  have  struck  early  in  the  season. 

Take  onsets  of  ALOES.    Shift  the  tender  sorts  of  EXOTICS  into 
fresh  pots,  and  also  the  hardy  green-house  plants. 


AUGUST. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Transplant  the  layers  of  Pinks  and  Sweetwil- 
liams,  which  have  by  this  time  rooted,  if  they  were 
layered  in  proper  season. 


CARNATIONS. 

The  beginning  of  this  month  is  as  good  as  the 
latter  end  of  the  last  for  layering  Carnations,  if  this 
was  not  done  last  month. 

Those  which  were  then  layered,  and  have  now 
struck,  should  be  potted,  some  in  light  rich  compost, 
others  in  one  of  poor  quality,  as  in  the  latter  there  is 
less  danger  of  their  running  to  a  plain  or  uniform 
color.  All  the  Dianthus  tribe  succeed  best  in  calca- 
reous* soil,  probably  from  its  absorbent  nature,  for 
they  dislike  stagnant  moisture  about  their  roots. — 
Lime  rubbish  is  a  good  ingredient  in  their  compost 

As  the  Carnation  (the  criteria  of  which  will  be 
given  in  the  proper  place)  is  prominent  in  the  flo- 
rist's estimation,  every  care  should  be  taken  with 
its  culture. 

Let  the  plants  now  be  neatly  staked,  carded,  and 
dressed,  and  placed  on  a  stage  so  elevated  as  to 
display  their  beauties  to  advantage,  and  shaded  by 
an  awning  from  the  mid-day  sun ;  this  veil  will  long 

*  Lime-stone  soil,  or  that  which  contains  a  portion  of  lime-stone, 
or  marble,  in  its  composition. 


154  AUGUST. 

preserve  their  loveliness  of  complexion,  and  almost 
double  the  periods  of  their  existence ;  and  if  a  coat 
of  moss  be  laid  on  the  surface  of  the  pot,  an  equable 
degree  of  moisture  will  be  kept  up ;  besides,  this  will 
give  a  dressy  look  to  the  plants. 

As  the  bloom  is  always  most  perfect  and  vigorous 
in  young  plants,  I  would  recommend  unremitting 
care  in  providing  a  continued  stock  for  succession, 
by  layering, — preparatory  to  which,  the  surface- 
mould  should  be  removed  as  far  as  the  roots,  and 
replaced  by  some  very  fine  earth  that  is  also  rich 
and  fresh.  The  success  of  the  operation  principally 
depends  on  the  season. 


SOWING  SEEDS. 

Some  recommend  the  sowing  of  Auricula  seed. 
I  am  inclined  to  think  that  it  is  better  not  to  sow 
it  until  January.  Polyanthus  seed,  however,  being 
less  estimable  and  more  hardy,  may  be  sown,  if  it 
were  only  for  the  sake  of  experiment. 

Ten  Week  Stock  sown  now,  will  blow  in  spring. 
In  order  to  preserve  a  double  strain  of  Ten  Week 
Stock,  protect  the  plants  of  the  seed  now  sown, 
through  the  winter,  and  plant  them  out  late  in  the 
next  spring,  in  order  to  save  seed  from  them.  This 
practice  prevails  on  the  continent,  where  a  superior 
species  is  obtained.  Mignonette  sown  now,  will 
flower  in  winter. 


AURICULAS. 

Clear  these  from  decayed  leaves,  and  shift  them 
into  fresh  pots,  placed  in  the  shade  until  they  shall 
have  rooted. 


AUGUST.  155 

This  removal  into  fresh  earth  will  invigorate  the 
plants  and  improve  their  flowering  next  season. 


DAHLIAS. 

Stake  and  thin  out  Dahlias  to  improve  the  bloom 
of  the  remaining  ones. 


REMOVAL  OF  BULBS. 

Those  which  you  want  to  increase  ought  now 
to  be  taken  up  if  their  leaves  be  decayed ;  should 
they  remain  longer  in  the  ground,  fresh  fibres  will 
have  pushed,  and  it  would  injure  the  plants,  in  such 
case,  to  remove  or  disturb  them  ;  but  taking  up  and 
immediately  replacing  them  in  fresh  manured  and 
stirred  up  earth,  before  they  push  out  fresh  fibres, 
will  serve  them. 

Ranunculuses  may  be  planted  in  beds  or  pots  to 
flower  in  November — a  month  in  which  they  will  be 
most  welcome  visitors. 

Gather  flower-seeds  as  they  ripen,  and  cut  down 
the  stalks  of  all  plants  which  have  done  flowering, 
and  secure  to  stakes  or  hoops  all  the  tall  plants, 
which  without  such  support  would  be  liable  to  injury 
from  wind. 

Water  all  your  annuals  regularly  and  moderately, 
if  they  require  it,  and  keep  your  beds,  borders,  and 
walks,  free  from  weeds. 

Water  also  your  green-house  plants,  particularly 
those  in  peat-mould — neglect  will  be  speedily  fatal 
to  Heaths  in  particular. 

Syringe  or  sprinkle  abundantly,  in  dry  and  warm 
weather,  your  tender  annuals  in  the  green-house  or 
hot-bed. 


156  AUGUST, 


PRINCIPAL  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS  IN  FLOWER, 

Carnations,  Tiger  Lily,  Liatris,  Orange  Asclepia, 
Campanula,  Baptisia  australis,  Chelone,  Perennial 
Sunflower,  Monarda,  Blue  Day  Lily,  Phlox,  Dragon 
Head,  Lobelia,  Epilobium,  &c.  &c. 


PRINCIPAL  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS  IN  FLOWER. 

Aloes,  Erythrina,  Tuberose,  Cactus  speciosus, 
Cereus  speciosissirnus,  Crassula,  Hoya,  Double  Al- 
thoea  frutex,  Fuchsia  microphylla,  Calceorarius, 
Streptocarpus,  Azalea,  Trivei'ranea  coccinea,  Blood 
Flower,  Atamasco  Lily,  Erythrina,  &c.  (all  within 
doors ;)  Lobus,  Salvia,  Heaths,  &c.  (in  the  open  air.) 


SHRUBS. 


Yucca  gloriosa,  Clethra,  Andromeda,  Itea,  Ca- 
nopus,  Sumach,  Japan  and  Chinese  Roses,  Ever- 
green and  Scarlet  Honeysuckles,  &c. 


Observations  on  some  of  the  Plants  mentioned  in  this 
Month. 

CARNATIONS. 

"They  postpone  the  opening  of  their  odoriferous  treasures  till 
they  are  under  no  more  apprehensions  of  having  their  spicy  cells 
rifled  by  rude  blasts,  or  drowned  in  incessant  showers." 

CRITERION   OF  A  GOOD  CARNATION. 

A  fine  Carnation  should  have  the  stem  of  suffi- 
cient stability  to  support  its  blossom  without  droop- 


AUGUST.  157 

ing,  the  usual  height  of  which  is  from  two  and  a 
half  to  three  feet:  some  are,  however,  much  taller, 
but  they  appear  awkward  and  out  of  proportion. 
The  flowers  ought  not  to  be  too  double,  or  they 
will  burst  and  be  ill-formed,  but  consist  of  just  enough 
of  regularly  arranged  petals  to  fill  the  flower-cup  to 
the  crown  or  centre,  without  appearing  to  crush 
each  other,  or  to  be  too  crowded.  The  outer  or 
guard  petals  must  be  large,  and  have  sufficient 
strength  to  maintain  a  horizontal  position  and  sup- 
port the  interior  ones,  the  disposition  of  which  should 
be  of  such  regularity  as  to  produce  the  most  perfect 
symmetry  of  appearance,  and  display  their  vivid 
coloring  to  advantage.  The  edge  of  each  petal 
should  be  perfectly  even,  and  without  the  slightest  in- 
dentation or  inclination  to  fringe — be,  as  it  is  termed, 
completely  rose-leaved.  Whether  the  flowers  are 
bizarred  or  flaked,  the  colors  should  be  evenly  dis- 
tributed through  them,  neither  the  ground  color  nor 
striping  appearing  to  predominate.  The  white  or 
ground  must  be  of  the  utmost  purity,  with  a  lustrous 
appearance,  and  the  stripes  cleanly  drawn  through  it, 
and  diverging  with  the  most  perfect  regularity  from 
the  centre  to  the  edge  of  the  blossom.  Bizarres,  or 
flowers  with  two  or  more  colors  on  the  white 
ground,  are  generally  more  preferred  than  the 
flakes,  or  such  as  have  but  one.  The  flakes  are, 
however,  very  beautiful,  and  present  a  bolder  con- 
trast of  color  than  the  others.  A  good  Piccotee 
should  be  similar,  in  the  construction  of  its  flowers, 
to  the  Carnation,  except  that  the  petals  are  some- 
times slightly  indented  or  even  serrated,  but  they 
ought  not  by  any  means  to  be  coarsely  notched. 
The  colors  are  fancifully  distributed  in  a  multiplicity 
of  small  stripes  or  dots,  upon  either  a  white  or  yel- 
low ground,  while  the  Carnation  is  striped  only,  and 

14 


158  AUGUST. 

should  be  perfectly  free  from  dots  and  small  lines, 
or  any  break  of  the  color  of  the  stripe.  Where  the 
corrolla  or  pod  is  longest,  the  flower  is  best,  and 
blossoms  with  the  least  trouble. 

Those  which  are  thinnest  of  leaves  produce  most 
seed. 

The  clove  has  the  highest  perfume,  and  those  bi- 
zarres  in  which  the  clove-streak  prevails,  are  the 
sweetest. 


TIGER  LILY. 

"Emblem  of  human  pride  that  fades  away, 
Of  earthly  joy  that  blooms  but  to  decay." 

The  Tiger  flower  is  a  most  ornamental  Iris,  and 
contributes  much  during  the  summer  and  autumn 
months  to  the  beauty  of  the  flower  borders,  by  an 
almost  inexhaustible  succession  of  pretty  spotted 
blossoms,  which,  however,  are  very  fugacious,  last- 
ing but  a  few  hours ;  they  expire  under  the  influence 
of  the  mid-day  sun,  and,  unlike  their  sister  flowers 
of  the  garden,  they  seem  to  shun  the  solar  rays,  and 
only  expand  their  blossoms  to  the  breeze  of  night : 
every  morning  presents  a  fresh  succession,  which, 
ere  we  have  well  seen  and  admired  them,  are  gone. 
Though  this  plant  is  a  native  of  Mexico,  the  bulbs 
will  stand  our  winters,  if  they  are  placed  sufficiently 
deep  in  the  soil ;  the  safer  plan,  however,  is  to  take 
them  up  in  autumn,  and  replant  them  any  time  during 
spring.  They  thrive  best  in  a  compost  of  sand  and 
peat,  but  grow  sufficiently  well  in  the  common  gar- 
den soil,  and  increase  with  great  rapidity  by  offsets. 
They  may  also  be  easily  propagated  by  seeds. 


AUGUST.  159 


ERYTHR1NA. 

"Whilst  Erythrina  o'er  her  tender  flower 
Bends  all  her  leaves  and  braves  the  sultry  hour." 

The  Erythrina,  or  Coral  tree,  is  deciduous,  and 
a  dwarf  species  of  a  magnificent  tropical  genus,  of 
which  some  attain  the  size  of  forest  trees.  It  makes 
strong  shoots  about  three  feet  long,  and  terminated 
by  very  splendid  spikes  of  scarlet  flowers,  twelve 
inches  long  and  upwards :  it  should  be  kept  dry  in 
winter  after  the  leaves  fall,  cut  down  in  spring,  re- 
potted, and  brought  into  a  higher  temperature. 


TUBEROSE. 

"The  Tuberose  with  her  silvery  light, 
****** 
Is  called  the  mistress  of  the  night." 

The  Tuberose  is  a  native  of  India,  and  in  this 
climate  rarely  produces  flowers  for  a  second  sea- 
son ;  the  bulbs  are  therefore  annually  imported,  (from 
Italy,)  though  it  has  sometimes  happened  that  they 
have  flowered  in  two  successive  seasons, — with 
more  trouble  than  they  are  worth.  The  double 
variety  is  chiefly  cultivated,  and  highly  valued  for 
its  grateful  fragrance,  one  or  two  plants  being  suffi- 
cient to  perfume  an  entire  green-house. 

The  bulbs  may  be  put  down  in  March,  in  pots 
filled  with  a  compost  of  sand,  leaf-mould  and  loam, 
placed  in  a  hot-bed,  until  they  are  nearly  in  flower, 
when  they  should  be  removed  to  the  green-house 
or  the  drawing-room. 


160  AUGUST. 


CACTUS  SPECIOSUS,  AND  CEREUS  SPECIO- 
SISSIMUS. 

"  Refulgent  Cerea,  at  the  dusky  hour, 
She  seeks  with  pensive  step  the  mountain  bower." 

These  are  splendid  succulent  plants,  unrivalled 
in  beauty,  particularly  the  latter,  as  large  as  a  gob- 
let, and  resembling  it  in  shape,  and  of  a  rich  color, 
scarlet  and  crimson  blended.  These  should  be 
lodged  near  the  sash  at  the  top  of  the  green-house, 
(that  position  being  warmer  than  a  lower  one,)  to 
forward  their  bloom. 

Darwin  says,  that  "  the  Cactus  grandiflorus,  or 
Cereus,  is  a  native  of  Jamaica,  and  that  it  emits  a 
most  fragrant  odor  for  a  few  hours  in  the  night,  and 
then  closes  for  ever." 


CACTUS  ACKERMANNII 

Resembles  the  former  in  shape  and  size,  and  rivals 
it  in  beauty,  but  differs  in  its  tints. 


THE  ALTILEA  FRUTEX 

Is  deciduous,  and  though  not  strictly  a  green- 
house plant,  will  not  bloom  well  in  this  climate  freely 
exposed;  it  produces  a  profusion  of  double  and  very 
showy  flowers,  like  those  of  the  Hollyhock  in  shape 
and  size,  varying  in  color  from  white  to  purple. 
There  are  two  varieties,  the  white  and  red,  which 
especially  require  a  green-house  heat  to  bloom  in 
perfection. 


AUGUST.  161 


FUCHSIA  MICROPHYLLA. 

The  leaves  of  this  plant  are  pigmy :  it  flowers 
abundantly  throughout  the  vear,  and  seeds  very 
freely. 


CALCEOLARIA,  OR  SLIPPERWORT, 

So  called  from  a  fancied  resemblance  to  a  slipper. 
Of  this  many  ornamental  varieties  have  been  intro- 
duced from  South  America.  The  flowers  vary  from 
yellow  to  purple,  and  blossom  during  the  entire 
summer.  Many  of  them  are  sufficiently  hardy  to 
bear  exposure  in  this  climate. 


AZALEA. 

This  is  a  beautiful  exotic  from  China,  flowering 
in  the  green-house  early  in  spring,  but  continuing 
in  bloom  during  the  present  month.  Some  species 
are  white,  others  purple,  blue,  scarlet,  and  yellow. 
The  white  variety  seems  hardy  enough  for  the 
open  air. 


STREPTOCARPUS, 

A  green-house  plant  from  Southern  Africa,  bear- 
ing delicate  sky-blue  and  purple  striped  flowers  in 
succession  throughout  the  summer. 

14* 


162  AUGUST. 


YUCCA  GLORIOSA  AND  YUCCA  GLAUCESCENS. 

These,  which  are  vulgarly  called  ADAM'S  NEEDLE, 
are  frutescent  plants  of  the  Aloe  tribe,  natives  of 
America,  exhibiting  at  this  season  noble  pyramids 
of  whitish  flowers,  from  four  to  six  inches  in  height. 
The  blossom  continues  for  a  long  time.  They  re- 
quire a  warm  border  and  light  rich  mould. 


MONTHLY  CALENDAR. 


SEPTEMBER. 


Remove  herbaceous  plants. 

Plant  CROCUSES,  SNOWDROPS,  PERSIAN  IRIS,  DOG-TOOTH  VIO- 
LET, FRITTILLARIES,  CROWN  IMPERIALS,  NARCISSUS,  &c. 

Shelter  AURICULAS. 

Take  off  CARNATION  layers. 

Save  flower  seeds. 

House  EXOTICS. 

Plant  cuttings  of  CHINESE  ROSES  and  other  flowering  shrubs. 

Transplant  hardy  EVERGREENS  and  shrubs. 

Increase  PINKS  by  dividing  the  roots. 


SEPTEMBER. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

Continue  the  cares  of  the  preceding  month — 
weeding,  watering,  staking,  &c. 

Look  over  the  parterres  and  shrubberies,  in  order 
to  renew  or  repair  whatever  may  be  deficient. 

Remove  herbaceous  plants,  (if  the  weather  be 
moist,)  from  one  part  of  your  flower-beds  or  bor- 
ders to  others,  as  deficiencies  may  require  ;  indeed 
whether  an  increase  of  plants  be  wanted  or  not,  a 
separation  of  the  roots,  when  they  become  too  much 
united  and  multiplied,  is  necessary. 

The  outer  offsets  and  weaker  slips  should  be 
planted  in  a  nursery,  apart,  until  they  acquire 
strength.  This  is  also  a  good  time  for  propagating 
by  slips  and  parting  of  the  roots,  herbaceous  flower- 
ing plants,  Peonies,  Flag  Irises,  &c.  Watering  will 
be  necessary,  if  the  weather  prove  dry. 

Plant  Crocuses,  and  all  the  bulbs  named  in  the 
calendar  of  this  month,  but  not  Hyacinths,  Ranuncu- 
luses, or  Anemones,  which  would  run  the  risk,  from 
too  great  forwardness,  of  being  altogether  cut  off  in 
the  flowering  seasons.  The  same  caution  must  be 
given  regarding  Tulips,  except  the  early  dwarf  kind, 
which  may  be  put  down,  at  the  end  of  the  month, 
in  warm  situations.  If  protected  during  the  winter, 
in  the  manner  before  recommended,  they  will  flower 
in  March. 

The  following  extract,  from  a  Note  of  Darwin's, 
may  be  acceptable  to  some  of  my  readers :  "  What 


166  SEPTEMBER. 

is  in  common  language  called  a  bulbous  root,  is  by 
Linnaeus  termed  the  hybernacle  or  winter  lodge  of 
the  young  plant.  These  bulbs  in  every  respect  re- 
semble buds,  except  in  their  being  produced  under 
ground,  and  include  the  leaves  and  flowers  in  min- 
iature which  are  to  be  expanded  in  the  ensuing 
spring.  By  cautiously  cutting  in  winter  through  the 
concentric  coats  of  a  Tulip  root,  longitudinally  from 
the  top  to  the  base,  and  taking  them  off  successively, 
the  whole  flower  of  the  next  summer's  Tulip  is 
beautifully  seen  by  the  naked  eye,  with  its  petals, 
pistils,  and  stamens.  The  flowers  exist  in  other 
bulbs  in  the  same  manner  as  in  Hyacinths,  but  the 
individual  flowers  of  these,  being  less,  they  are  not 
so  easily  dissected  or  so  conspicuous  tqihe  naked  eye. 

"  duick  flies  fair  Tulipa  the  loud  alarms, 
And  folds  her  infant  closer  in  her  arms  ; 
In  some  lone  cave's  secure  pavilion  lies, 
And  waits  the  courtship  of  serener  skies." 


AURICULAS. 

At  the  end  of  the  month,  these  must  be  taken  to 
their  sheltered  positions  as  soon  as  the  weather  indi- 
cates a  change  of  season ;  however  constructed  or 
contrived  their  coverings  may  be,  it  is  essential  that 
they  should  have  abundance  of  air. 


PINK  BEDS. 

Prepare  these  of  rich  compost,  according  to  the 
directions  given,  and  put  into  them  pink  pipings. 


SEPTEMBER.  167 


CARNATION  LAYERS. 

These,  if  rooted,  should  now  be  taken  off  the  last 
growth,  and  put  into  pots  under  frames,  which  must 
be  opened  every  fine  day  :  too  much  moisture  be- 
ing injurious  to  Carnations,  all  the  species  of  which 
are  natives  of  dry  situations.  Those  which  were 
potted  in  the  last  month,  should  now  be  hardened 
by  exposure. 

If  any  of  the  layers  be  but  indifferently  struck,  a 
gentle  bottom  heat  and  shading  will  soon  establish 
them  with  abundance  of  roots.  The  pipings  of  Car- 
nations are  also  to  receive  the  same  attention :  they 
are,  however,  generally  more  hardy  than  plants  pro- 
duced from  layers. 


THE  SAVING  OF  FLOWER  SEEDS. 

Many  sorts  will  now  be  fully  ripe,  and  will  conse- 
quently require  to  be  carefully  saved  and  preserved. 


EDGINGS. 

Trim  and  plant  edgings.  Gentianella  may  now 
be  planted  out  for  new  edgings,  or  to  repair  old 
ones ;  it  produces  a  beautiful  little  flower :  and  if 
you  will  have  Box,  in  spite  of  what  I  have  said  in 
my  observations  about  it  in  February,  this  is  the  best 
month  for  planting  it — but  do  not  clip  it  until  March. 


168  SEPTEMBER. 


WORK  TO  BE  DONE  IN  THE  GREEN-HOUSE. 

At  the  latter  end  of  the  month  dress  your  green 
house  plants  and  return  them  to  their  winter  quar- 
ters, according  to  their  degrees  of  delicacy — begin- 
ning with  the  most  tender,  before  chilly  nights  and 
cold  dews  shall  have  checked  their  growth  and  dis- 
colored their  foliage.  Leave  the  hardier  ones  out 
as  long  as  the  weather  will  permit,  as  they  would 
become  slender  and  weak  by  premature  confine- 
ment. 

Before  they  are  taken  in,  the  surface-mould  in  the 
pots  should  be  removed,  and  replaced  with  fresh 
earth,  and  those  plants  which  require  more  room 
should  now  be  changed  to  large  pots.  In  effecting 
this  removal,  it  has  latterly  been  the  practice  to  raise 
the  surface  higher  towards  the  neck  of  the  plant 
than  at  the  rim  of  the  pot,  to  prevent  the  stem,  at 
the  very  point  where  it  is  most  liable  to  it,  from  be- 
coming rotten  by  the  lodgment  of  dampness  around 
it.  This  precaution  is  particularly  necessary  for 
Heaths,  and  some  other  tender  Cape  or  Australian 
plants.  This  operation  should  take  place  ten  days 
or  a  fortnight  before  they  are  brought  in,  that  they 
may  recover  from  any  check  which  they  may  have 
received  in  consequence. 

Tie  and  stake  them  up  neatly. 

Shift  Chrysanthemums  into  flowering  pots.  These 
plants  repay  all  the  attention  that  you  bestow  on 
them,  and  at  any  season  can  vie  with  the  proudest ; 
but  in  winter  they  are  unrivalled. 

Bud  Camellias.  Pot  Roses  for  forcing.  Repair 
your  conservatories,  if  they  be  in  any  respect  out  of 
order ;  clear  out  all  withered  stalks  and  leaves,  and 
preserve  a  universal  neatness  within  it. 


SEPTEMBER*  169 

THE  SHRUBBERY. 

Plant  cuttings  of  Chinese  Roses  and  other  flow- 
ering shrubs  as  soon  as  the  wood  has  ripened  ;  also 
plant  cuttings  of  Evergreens,  taking  care  to  water 
and  shade  them  if  necessary.  Always  make  your 
cut  (when  taking  cuttings  from  the  same  year's 
wood)  straight  across  the  bottom  of  the  joint,  as  they 
are  found  to  strike  more  freely  from  the  lower  end  : 
propagation  by  slipping  is  as  good,  if  not  a  better 
method.  This  is  done  by  pulling  with  a  smart 
twitch  (but  not  with  such  force  as  to  hurt  the  parent 
tree)  the  young  shoot  from  the  mother  branch,  so  as 
to  draw  with  it  the  peel  or  joint  inserted  in  it. 

When  putting  down  the  cuttings,  strip  the  leaves 
from  the  lower  part,  about  one  half  of  the  length, 
and  stick  them  in  earth,  pressing  it  firmly  either 
with  the  foot  or  setting  stick. 

TRANSPLANTING  EVERGREENS. 

This  is  evidently  the  best  month  for  transplanting 
in  sandy  and  other  absorbent  soils,  hardy  shrubs 
and  Evergreens,  and  early  ripening  deciduous  shrubs, 
as  Roses ;  but  all  the  deciduous  kinds,  however, 
should  not  be  moved  yet,  as  some  of  them  require 
more  time  to  terminate  their  annual  growth. 

Water  them  well  after  removal,  and  stake  them. 
You  may  now  propagate  shrubs  by  layers. 


PRINCIPAL  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS  IN  FLOWER. 
German  and  China  Asters,  Liatris,  Celsie,  Che- 
lone,  Golden  Rod,  Colchicum,  African  and  French 
Marygolds,  Saffron  Crocus,  Coreopsis  tinctoria, 
Epilobium,  Dodonea,  Rudbeckias,  Dahlias,  Cycla- 
mens, Lobelia  fulgens,  Belladonna  Lily,  &c. 


170  SEPTEMBER. 


GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS  IN  FLOWER. 

Guernsey  Lily,  Cape  Crinum,  Bouvardia,  Plum- 
bago capensis,  Bignonia  grandiflora,  Treoirana  coc- 
cinea,  Streptocarpus  rexii,  and  the  greater  part  of 
those  enumerated  in  the  preceding  month. 


SHRUBS  IN  FLOWER. 

Althoea  frutex,  Colutea,  Itea,  Heaths,  Helianthe- 
mum,  St.  John's  Wort,  Chinese  Privet,  Chinese 
Musk,  and  Quatre  Saisons  Roses,  Arbutus,  and 
Lauristinus. 


HIBISCUS  SPECIOSUS, 

OR    SCARLET   MALLOW. 

This  splendid  and  showy  plant,  of  which  there 
have  been  described  more  than  seventy  species,  is  a 
native  of  our  Southern  States,  and  flourishes  well  in 
the  open  borders  of  the  garden  as  far  north  as  Phila- 
delphia and  New- York.  It  grows  from  five  to  nine 
feet  in  height.  It  flowers  in  August  and  September, 
and  continues  in  bloom  until  the  appearance  of  frost 
The  root  of  this  plant  is  perennial,  and  the  stem 
herbaceous ;  each  branch  terminates  in  three  (rarely 
four)  separate  flowers,  which  are  large,  and  of  a  rich 
shining  carmine-red,  as  seen  by  inspecting  the  draw- 
ing, at  the  head  of  the  spring  months.  It  may  be 
obtained  from  the  seed,  and  will  flourish  quite  well 
in  our  open  gardens  ;  a  moist  soil  suits  it  best,  hence 
in  its  native  clime  it  is  frequently  found  by  the  side 
of  rivers,  and  in  other  moist  situations.  It  is  abun- 
dant in  South  Carolina. — G. 


Jfibiscus 


SEPTEMBER.  171 

THE   GUERNSEY  LILY. 

"When  Heaven's  high  vault  condensing  clouds  deform, 
Fair  Amaryllis  flies  the  incumbent  storm, 
Seeks  with  unsteady  step  the  shelter'd  vale, 
And  turns  her  blusliing  beauties  from  the  gale." 

This  Lily  is  a  beautful  crimson  Amaryllis,  culti- 
vated to  great  perfection  in  the  Island  of  Guernsey, 
and  thence  exported  to  every  part  of  Europe.  A 
story  goes  that  some  roots  being  cast  on  the  shore 
of  that  island  from  a  wrecked  East  Indiaman,  found 
the  soil  so  congenial  that  they  flourished  there  with- 
out care  or  observation,  until  the  beauty  of  their 
flowers  attracted  attention.  It  is  now  to  be  found 
in  the  London  seed  shops,  being  annually  imported 
in  the  autumn  from  Guernsey. 

CAPE  CRINUM. 

This  is  an  aquatic  from  Bengal,  but  it  blossoms 
perfectly  well  with  us,  if  placed  in  a  cistern  under  a 
south  wall. 

CLIMBERS. 

Clematis,  Evergreen  Trumpet,  Chinese  and  Japan 
Honeysuckle,  Wisteria  frutescens,  Passion  Flower, 
and  Jasmine,  one  of  the  peculiarities  of  which  is, 
that  its  fragrance,  like  that  of  the  Rose,  is  most  pow- 
erful in  the  morning. — 

"The  twining  Jasmine,  and  the  blushing  Rose, 
With  lavish  grace  their  morning  scents  disclose ; 
The  smelling  Tub'rose  and  Jonquil  declare, 
The  stronger  impulse  of  an  evening  air." 

ROUTINE  WORK. 

Clear  away  decayed  leaves,  weeds,  stalks,  &c. ; 
cut  off  all  dead  stems  from  plants  which  have  ceased 
flowering,  and  dig  up  all  the  borders  and  beds  from 
which  flowers  have  disappeared.  Trench  up  ground 
for  the  reception  of  Tulips  and  Hyacinths  next 
month  or  November. 


MONTHLY  CALENDAR. 


OCTOBER. 


At  the  end  of  this  month: — 

Plant  ANEMONES,  TULIPS,  CROCUSES,  HYACINTHS,  TURKEY  RA- 
NUNCULUSES and  JONQUILS. 

Transplant  various  fibrous-rooted  plants,  and  the  knob-rooted, 
such  as  IRISES  and  PEONIES. 

Save  seeds. 

Transplant  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs,  and  hardy  Evergreens. 

Remove  green-house  plants  from  their  summer  stations  into  the 
open  air. 


OBSERVATIONS 

FOR 

OCTOBER. 


The  garden  labors  of  this  and  the  preceding 
month  are  in  many  respects  similar.  The  planting 
and  transplanting  of  many  bulbous  and  fibrous-root- 
ed plants  may  be  executed  in  either  of  these  months ; 
the  state  of  the  season,  and  other  circumstances, 
such  as  opportunity  and  leisure,  influencing  the 
florist  as  to  the  precise  time  for  those  operations. 
In  transplanting  the  hardy  fibrous-rooted  plants,  As- 
ters, Canterbury  Bells,  Hollyhocks,  Monkshood,  Po- 
lyanthuses, Daisies,  &cw  intermix  them  in  the  bor- 
ders so  as  to  preserve  a  varied  succession  through 
the  flowering  season,  for  it  is  bad  taste  to  have  one 
portion  of  the  garden  displaying  a  profusion  of 
crowded  beauties,  and  another  comparatively  with- 
out them. 


WORK  TO   BE   DONE   IN  THE   FLOWER 
GARDEN. 

At  the  latter  end  of  this  month  you  may  put  down 
your  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  and  autumnal  plantation  of 
Ranunculuses  and  Anemones.     From  that  period 
15* 


174  OCTOBER. 

to  the  middle  of  November  is  the  proper  season  for 
planting  them.  For  particular  directions  see  No- 
vember. 


HYACINTHS 

May  now  be  set  in  flowering  glasses ;  also  Soleil 
d'Or  Narcissus,  double  Jonquils,  and  Persian  Iris. 
The  water  should  be  up  to  the  neck  of  the  root,  and 
frequently  changed,  in  order  to  prevent  the  accumu- 
lation of  green  scum,  which  clogs  the  pores  of  the 
roots,  and  for  the  removal  of  the  excretions  which 
become  offensive,  and  would  injure  them ;  fresh  rain 
water  is  the  best  for  this  purpose.  In  changing  it, 
incline  the  bulb  to  one  side,  without  drawing  out  the 
roots.  Give  as  much  air  and  light  as  possible,  and 
only  a  temperate  degree  of  warmth. 

Some  prefer  planting  these  roots  in  pots  ;  in  such 
case,  choose  light  sandy  compost,  and  plant  them  no 
deeper  than  the  middle  of  the  bulb.  In  the  choice 
of  your  Hyacinth  roots,  let  them  be  middle  sized, 
solid,  and  neither  broad  nor  with  a  wide  bottom. 
In  short,  let  them  be  young  and  healthy.  Choose 
dark-colored  glasses,  as  white  ones,  by  the  admission 
of  too  much  light,  will  injure  the  functions  of  the  fibre. 


CARNATIONS— CARNATION  LAYERS. 

Take  care  of  your  Carnation  pots,  placing  them 
under  frames  or  hoops  covered  as  before  directed. 

Place  your  Carnation  layers  in  frames  open  to  the 
air  on  every  fine  day,  for  damp  weather  is  most 
injurious  to  them ;  a  bed  of  coal  ashes  under  them 
is  the  best  protection  against  wetness  and  slugs. 


OCTOBER.  176 


AURICULAS. 

Bring  these  also  into  their  winter  quarters,  and 
keep  them  dry. 


TRANSPLANTING  FIBROUS-ROOTED 
PLANTS. 

Among  these  you  are  to  include  the  pipings  of 
Pinks  which  have  been  rooted  this  season,  and  the 
Carnation  layers  which  are  intended  to  stand  in  beds. 
Pinks  and  Carnations  so  treated  will  flower  better 
than  those  planted  in  spring. 

Separate  Sweetwilliams  and  the  cuttings  of  Wall- 
flowers which  have  rooted  during  the  season,  and 
put  them  into  borders.  This  or  the  preceding 
month  will  answer  better  for  transplanting,  and  in- 
creasing by  division,  almost  all  the  fibrous-rooted 
herbaceous  plants. 


PROTECT  DAHLIAS 

Which  are  still  in  bloom.  As  a  precaution  to 
preserve  the  buds  at  the  base  of  the  stalk  (on  which 
your  hopes  for  the  next  year  depend)  from  a  severe 
frost,  cover  them  all  round  with  some  light  substance, 
two  or  three  inches  deep,  and  when  they  cease  to 
be  ornamental,  take  them  up,  and  either  preserve 
them  in  some  airy  place,  secure  from  frost,  or  lay 
them  by  the  heels  as  directed  in  November. 


176  OCTOBER. 


SAVING  OF  FLOWER  SEEDS. 

Save  flower  seeds,  particularly  those  of  Annual 
Stock  and  German  Asters. 


WORK  TO  BE   DONE  IN  THE   GREEN-HOUSE. 

Pot  Roses,  &c.  for  forcing. 

Bud  Camellias.  Pot  Jacobea  Lilies,  Lissias  Gla- 
diolus oxalis,  Crinums,  Antholyzas,  Guernsey  Lily, 
and  Pancratiums. 

Complete  the  housing  of  your  green-house  plants, 
and  when  arranging  them,  let  your  first  care  be  to 
consult  their  respective  natures,  placing  the  more 
hardy  ones  and  least  liable  to  injury  from  moisture 
(in  damp  weather)  in  the  back  part,  the  more  delicate 
and  herbaceous  in  the  front,  in  the  most  airy  situa- 
tion, and  then  let  them  be  so  judiciously  disposed  as 
to  conceal  their  mutual  defects,  display  each  other's 
peculiar  beauties,  and  form  one  varied  yet  harmo- 
nious picture  of  tints  and  shades. 

The  early  flowering  Chrysanthemum  should  es- 
peciallv  be  interspersed  among  the  other  plants,  for 
effect/ 


THE   SHRUBBERY. 

Transplant  hardy  Evergreens,  shrubs,  and  decid- 
uous trees,  the  former  early  in  the  month,  the  lat- 
ter at  any  time  during  the  winter,  if  it  be  mild. 
Evergreens,  in  order  to  establish  themselves,  require 
some  warmth  in  the  soil  and  air.  On  the  whole,  I 


OCTOBER.  177 

consider  this  season  preferable  to  March  for  trans- 
planting flowering  shrubs,  &c.  as  the  moisture  of 
the  earth  now,  on  an  average  of  years,  will  insure 
their  taking  root  quickly — a  problematical  matter  in 
April,  at  least  without  artificial  watering,  which  it 
may  be  troublesome  and  inconvenient  to  supply. 
In  seasons  of  frost  or  boisterous  weather,  the  case 
is  of  course  different. 

Our  stock  of  flowers  is  now  decreasing  rapidly ; 
yet  amidst  the  general  decline,  some  still  stand  erect, 
and  like  departing  friends,  become  doubly  dear  to  us. 


PRINCIPAL  HERBACEOUS  PLANTS  IN  FLOWER. 

Asters,  Celsia,  Marvel  of  Peru,  Rudbeckia,  Col- 
chicum,Pentstemon,Dropswort,  Spiderwort,  Lobel- 
lias,  Altheas,  Dahlias,  early  Chrysanthemums,  and 
Lupinus  mutabilis,  with  a  few  others. 


GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS  IN  FLOWER. 

A  variety  of  the  Pelargoniums,  Erythrinas,  Fuch- 
sia, Calceolaria,  Melaleuca,  Salvia  splendens,  Ele- 
thra  arborea,  Ericas,  Jasmine,  Oxalis,  (floribunda, 
variabilis,  stricta,  and  grandiflora.) 


SHRUBS  AND  TREES  IN  FLOWER. 

Crista  Galli  and   Mezereon,  Heaths,  Jasmines, 
Magnolia,  Bignonia,  Raphia,  Passion  Flower,  Cle- 


178  OCTOBER. 

matis,  Chinese  Noisette  and  Bourbon  Roses,  Rubus 
rosaefolius,  Double  Blossomed  Dwarf  and  Irish 
Furze,  Chaste  Tree,  with  variously  colored  leaves ; 
ornamental  Scarlet  Dyers  and  other  Oaks,  Sumach, 
Verbena,  &c. 


ROUTINE  WORK. 

Preserve  order  and  cleanliness  in  your  gravel- 
walks,  beds,  and  shrubberies.  Regulate  in  the  latter 
every  disorderly  growth,  and  dig  up  all  the  borders 
which  are  without  flowers,  both  for  the  sake  of 
neatness,  and  for  the  reception  of  such  plants  as  you 
design  to  place  in  them. 

Attend  still  to  the  constant  mowing  and  rolling  of 
your  turf. 

Gather  up  leaves  as  they  fall :  if  placed  in  large 
heaps  they  will  be  serviceable  for  hot-beds,  or  will 
form  valuable  matter  for  composts. 


CONCLUSION. 


We  have  arrived  at  the  termination  of  the  floral 
year,  and  painfully  perceive  that  the  once  noble  and 
brilliant  array  of  out-of-door  flowers  and  shrubs  is 
now  reduced  to  a  small  and  scattered  remnant — 
"like  the  gleaning  of  grapes  when  the  vintage  is 
done."  And  we  are  serious,  or  ought  to  be  so,  "  for 
we  all  do  fade  like  a  leaf," — we  would  have  wished 
to  the  beautiful  flowers  we  have  seen,  a  longer  ex- 
istence, an  uninterrupted  bloom,  but  in  vain — "  the 
wind  passeth  over  them,  and  they  are  gone." 

"Let  us  contemplate  the  distribution  of  flowers 
through  the  several  periods  of  the  year, — were  they 
all  to  blossom  together,  there  would  be  at  once  a 
promiscuous  throng,  and  at  once  a  total  privation : 
we  should  scarce  have  an  opportunity  of  adverting 
to  the  delightful  qualities  of  half,  and  must  soon  lose 
the  agreeable  company  of  them  all ;  but  now  since 
every  species  has  a  separate  post  to  occupy,  and  a 
distinct  interval  for  appearing,  we  can  take  a  lei- 
surely and  minute  survey  of  each  succeeding  set. 
We  can  view  and  review  their  forms,  and  enter  into 
a  more  intimate  acquaintance  with  their  charming 
accomplishments. — What  goodness  is  this,  to  pro- 
vide such  a  series  of  gratifications  for  mankind,  and 
to  take  care  that  our  paths  should  be,  in  a  manner, 


180  CONCLUSION. 

incessantly  strewed  with  flowers  !  and  what  wisdom 
to  bid  every  one  of  these  insensible  beings  know 
the  precise  juncture  for  their  coming  forth  !  so  that 
no  actor  on  a  stage  can  be  more  exact  in  performing 
his  part,  can  make  a  more  regular  entry,  or  a  more 
punctual  exit. 

"  Who  emboldens  the  Daffodil  to  venture  abroad 
in  February,  and  to  trust  her  flowering  gold  with 
inclement  and  treacherous  skies  ?  Who  informs  the 
various  tribes  of  fruit-bearing  blossoms,  that  vernal 
suns,  and  a  more  genial  warmth,  are  fittest  for  their 
delicate  texture  ?  Who  teaches  the  Clove  to  stay 
till  hotter  beams  are  prepared  to  infuse  a  spicy  rich- 
ness into  her  odours,  and  tincture  her  complexion 
with  the  deepest  crimson?  Who  disposes  these 
beautiful  troops  into  such  orderly  bodies  ;  retarding 
some,  and  accelerating  others  ?  Who  has  instructed 
them  to  file  off  with  such  perfect  regularity,  as  soon 
as  the  duty  of  their  respective  station  is  over  ?  and 
when  one  detachment  retires,  who  gives  the  signal 
for  another  immediately  to  advance  ?  Who,  but 
that  unerring  Providence,  which  from  the  highest 
thrones  of  angels,  to  the  very  lowest  degrees  of  ex- 
istence, orders  all  things  in  *  number,  weight  and 
measure.' " — Hervey. 


THE  END. 


, 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


a 

REC'D  LD 

- 

NOV  20  1356 

NOV  L  4  l.qqg 

LD  21-100m-6,'56 
(B9311slO)476 


University  of  California 
Berkeley 


•  YB 


